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I've done that as well and when using a "better" name brand I've never been disappointed or suffered a catastrophic failure due that sort of use. Sure I've spent more money initially but the LACK of problems with a "better" product along with increased reliability I quickly recoup that expense if only in peace of mind. That's kinda my point with using the "better" brands of anything, the remorse that sets in if we know we caused our own problems. To date when it comes to my Ford vehicles I've not heard any real problems stemming 100% from using Ford OEM or Motorcraft parts including engine oil or ATF.
I agree entirely. I don't always use OEM for everything, especially after growing up in an anti-Ford household and figuring out the quirks of other brands and their OEM parts and fluids. Occasionally I learn a lesson, but usually do okay. I also use my judgement and buy quality, and not just lowest price. It seems like with Ford I can count on their OEM parts more, and not pay an arm and leg to acquire.
Originally Posted by JWA
As an aside my transmission builder has always recommended and used a "generic" ATF to which he uses an additive that "converts" it to a suitable formula for any one particular brand. He's never experienced an issue with that process, laughs out loud I choose to supply my own Motorcraft ATF but understands my hesitation. My point here being because this seems to be effective for most uses I wonder how important the brand is determining what's "better" and what's only barely acceptable.
Yeah that's too weird for me too. I would do the same.
I agree entirely. I don't always use OEM for everything, especially after growing up in an anti-Ford household and figuring out the quirks of other brands and their OEM parts and fluids. Occasionally I learn a lesson, but usually do okay. I also use my judgement and buy quality, and not just lowest price. It seems like with Ford I can count on their OEM parts more, and not pay an arm and leg to acquire.
Yeah that's too weird for me too. I would do the same.
All automotive oils and fluids have to meet the same specs, when you buy an expensive name brand you are just paying extra for the name. All that really matters is you use the correct spec fluid or oil for whatever you are putting it in, brand makes no difference.
All automotive oils and fluids have to meet the same specs, when you buy an expensive name brand you are just paying extra for the name. All that really matters is you use the correct spec fluid or oil for whatever you are putting it in, brand makes no difference.
that not entirely true. There are fluids they barely meet spec and there are fluids that meet them with margins to spare.
You could buy a fluid that is just barely thick enough to pass spec. It’s in spec so that’s good. But over time as it shears it falls below spec which may not be good. Or you could buy a fluid that is in the middle of the spec and as it shears it will never fall below the specified range.
Most of your brand name fluids will run toward the middle of the spec. Many of your no name fluids run toward one end or the other of the spec. That said many of the no name fluids are made by the major companies (Walmart brand super tech and tractor supply brand Traveller as a great examples) so not being a major brand name doesn’t automatically equate to junk.
for quite a while you could buy Walmart brand Mercon LV/Dex VI certified fluid. I would use that in a heartbeat. And, in my older vehicles I use the Mercon/Dex III Walmart fluid without hesitation as well.
APQI is a great resource to know which fluids to stay away from.
I agree that there are different qualities of fluids out there. just looking at MSDS's they have different performance. Those tests on YouTube show different performance between fluids of the same specification from different brands. If they were all of the same quality, I bet none of them would hide who their actual manufacturer was.
Personally, I've seen burned up fluid at low miles replaced by quality fluid that still looks good at double and triple the original interval under the same service. Generally no way to know what was already there, but the evidence that the newer stuff lasts longer looking good under the same usage in the same cars with more miles says something.
Either way, for me it's not worth saving a few bucks to have questions I'd rather not answer later.
You could buy a fluid that is just barely thick enough to pass spec. It’s in spec so that’s good. But over time as it shears it falls below spec which may not be good.
That is accounted for when they create the specs for oil and fluids.
That is accounted for when they create the specs for oil and fluids.
back when all fluids were essentially using the same base stocks and technology, then I would say you are correct.
But If you start with a fluid that barely meets spec, all things being equal, it will go out of spec quicker than one that has some headroom to start with.
this is why maxlife can serve in a transmission that calls for Mercon, though. It starts out of spec, but will never go below the service minimum for Mercon fluid. So it starts thinner than Mercon, but will stay thicker than Mercon at the end of the fluids service life.
i just would not suggest buying a budget off brand fluid that barely meets spec. It will work for a while, but without the better technologies (which would drive the cost above the budget category) it will fall below service specs quicker than one that started toward the middle.
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