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Still working on my issues, BUT... Been chasing the bad #2 contribution and random IDM code. Replaced the IDM with a 120v, and it fired right up. I also decided I had a weak fuel pump, so decided to replace the AZ special with a Bosch. Since it didn't come with the output fitting, and I had to order one, I decided to also do the fuel bowl "rebuild". Got all of the parts today and go it back together. Fuel bowl is full. It fired right up, but died as soon as I got it out of the shop and won't start now. WTS light cycles. the tach moves slightly, but not a lot, so I went ahead and swapped the CPS with one I had here. Still no start. Just checked codes, and get a p0605. Did my PCM somehow fry?
That's some good maintenance accomplished, so props for that.
I'd clear the P0605 cuz it might be from the recent work and see if it comes back. Since you see WTS and tach working at least those parts of the PCM are working.
Yeah clearing the code is job 1 this morning after trying to research all night. Honestly, I've never paid attention once in the past 20 years to how much the tach moves when cranking. It minimally twitches a bit.
Yeah clearing the code is job 1 this morning after trying to research all night. Honestly, I've never paid attention once in the past 20 years to how much the tach moves when cranking. It minimally twitches a bit.
I was going to add a fuel pressure gauge when I messed with the fuel bowl, (I also switched the spring in the bowl), but I didn't order the parts, so I'll have to figure something else out for that.
I'm headed out to clean up some debris left by the storm, but I didn't want to leave you hanging if you were there scratching your head.
1. As David said, the PCM would not be a suspect of mine since the WTS light comes on.
2. Last in, first suspect... Check fuel pressure off the bowl with this cheap and easy method by SSJ - Fuel Pressure The Easy Method
3. Which spring in the bowl did you switch? If you are referring to the spring in the FPR on the drivers side of the bowl, that sucker has to be dead on center in order to function properly. If you are talking about the spring valve in the center of the bowl that stops fuel flow in the event a filter is not in place, there are slots in the standpipe that need to be lined up. If they are not, fuel flow will be restricted to a point of idle only or stalling or no start.
4. The tachometer only moves a bit on the earlier model trucks, like yours and mine. See the video below of my truck shortly after installing the Denso starter.
I'm headed out to clean up some debris left by the storm, but I didn't want to leave you hanging if you were there scratching your head.
1. As David said, the PCM would not be a suspect of mine since the WTS light comes on.
2. Last in, first suspect... Check fuel pressure off the bowl with this cheap and easy method by SSJ - Fuel Pressure The Easy Method
3. Which spring in the bowl did you switch? If you are referring to the spring in the FPR on the drivers side of the bowl, that sucker has to be dead on center in order to function properly. If you are talking about the spring valve in the center of the bowl that stops fuel flow in the event a filter is not in place, there are slots in the standpipe that need to be lined up. If they are not, fuel flow will be restricted to a point of idle only or stalling or no start.
4. The tachometer only moves a bit on the earlier model trucks, like yours and mine. See the video below of my truck shortly after installing the Denso starter.
Thanks for the input. And sorry you have to deal wit storm damage. We had a tornado in our area twice in 2 years. That sucked.
I did all of the o-rings, including the one on the standpipe. (which in theory, I guess the standpipe could just be removed so long as theere's a filter installed), and also did the gold spring in the FPR. I'm 99.999% sure that went in nice and straight. I'll have to go shopping for fuel pressure gauge parts. Since my truck is in the way. I think I'll try just pulling the standpipe just for giggles (sort of)
So, it ended up being the standpipe. Something odd that somehow I've neveer seen before. The new fuel filter I installed had a pin inside of it to push the plunger of the standpipe. So does my lid. Somehow, as I tightened the lid, I must've broken the pin from the filter and it shoved down into the standpipe. Blocking everything. I Pulled the pipe, reassembled everything and after a bit of cranking she fired right up. Gonna go run it around for a bit and see if it fixed my contribution error on #2. Also, when I was in there, I did chect to make sure the FPR moved freely, and when I didn't tighten the filter lid, I did find out that I've got some pretty good fuel prerssure. Thanks for the help guys!!!
So, just ran around for about 60 miles. Got back to where it's running as it was. Still have contribution failure on #2 and a slight miss that's mostly noticable at high idle. I guess since I replaced the IDM, cup, wiring, and injector (though I have no confidence that I recieved a good replacement injector from FFD, and after getting screwed on the warranty by them, I have no desire to mess with them ever again), but I guess I'm just gonna let her smoke at startup and run a little rough for to get me through the winter. I was really hoping to turn it back into my daily driver, but I guess it's not in the cards for now. Gonna do a cab swap in the spring, so I'll probably pull the motor apart then and see if there is a piston or head problem. Gotta replace the pan and find my other oil leaks anyway, so who knows, maybe a full rebuild, and I'll get rid of the FFD injectors and just put a NEW set of stocks back in it then.
Thanks for all of the help and input along this PITA journey!!