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Make sure when you take out the old seat, save the sliders. Then take the new seat and built a one piece rectangle seat frame to bolt it to. Than add you 79 OEM sliders to it and there you go. If you need to raise it up, use square tubing between the OEM sliders and the floor.
Rear seat from a 2000 ish Crew Cab SD.
If the front seat you plan on using is a duel individual buckets (manual or elec) and a fixed center seat, you will need to make either 3 stand alone frames and power the outer seats accordingly. Or build one square tube frame, mount it to the bottom of all 3 seats. Attach your 79 OEM sliders, so you can use the OEM bolt holes.
The issues I have seen with using the front seats mount brackets is the newer trucks floor pans are not flat and therefore the newer seat brackets/sliders are not set up for a flat surface mount.
I measured mine out and drilled and bolted them right up. I had to drill new holes in the slider top track and bolt it accordingly. Measure X100, drill once. You can see the different marker markings (circle and X) versus the hole I ended up drilling.
I do like the 90's with the large fold down arm rest, pump up lumbar support was nice. Would like to get my old one in a salvage yard not too far away. Loved the cupholder cubby on front edge. Had 2 95's but always felt like a little kid driving Dad's truck. If I do install my old 95 seat going to have a shop build up that seat foam to dentside standards. You don't set in a dent seat, you set on. Just thoughts.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
