OP must have so much money it just falls out of his ears while he walks. I am fortunate enough to be able to do a lot of stupid car stuff but if someone told me it was going to take 5% of this to do anything on my cars I'd immediately be suspicious. Hence I do everything myself so I don't get taken for a ride.
But damn imagine recognizing something fishy was up, coming to the forum for advice, getting consistent data from all the most seasoned 7.3 owners the webonet has to offer, just willynilly ignoring all of it but still giving the playbyplay for us all to consume and then greenlighting so much more work and parts. Truly baffling and should be a case study for college psychology classes for sure.
this truck is destined for the scrap yard itll need so much work to even be a POS once it rolls out of this hellhole.

 

Its obvious that many knowledgeable people on this thread feel that the op is getting taken advantage of by a dishonest shop. I can agree I feel this way.

But we arent in the op’s shoes.
Maybe this is a learning experience for them.
Maybe they don’t have the option to do it themselves.
Maybe they are in so deep with this, that they don’t have any other good option but to follow through the now painful journey.
Maybe they don’t care to listen to other fte members experienced advice.
The has been some very good advice shared in this thread.
But dang…… some people are being just nasty to this person. Its a bit ridiculous

 

Eric,

You are right. We don’t have the full story.

To the OP, If I offended, that wasn’t my intent.

Les.

 

Rainmaker,
I’m not sure if this has been discussed, but you want to make sure the shop is using the correct sealant for your oil pan. It should be Motorcraft TA-31 and I believe it has a 24 hour cure time.

 

Thank you for the tip. I’m delivering the new OEM fuel sending unit and the Strictly Diesel oil dip stick adapter tomorrow.
I’m requesting other items replaced such as the thermostat and housing, motor mounts (OEM unavailable), power steering gearbox hydraulic lines (they’re oil soaked), the negative battery cable and strap, fuel tank filler rubber hose, and radiator hoses.

With regards to the negative battery cables on the passenger side (I think from the block to the chassis?)

is there any disadvantage to using the same gauge as the battery to starter cable (2/0)?
A new set of cables were installed from Custombatterycables.com. The “Hard Start” option.
These have not been replaced yet. There’s an 8 gauge cable and a woven strap, both on the passenger side. If you zoom in you can see both cables disconnected from the engine prior to being removed from the chassis.

 

No disadvantage. If you already have the cable use it.

 

I agree with this.

 

Any thoughts on adding tunes? If so now is a good time to fortify the intake boots etc.

 

Keeping everything stock OEM as much as I can. With everything that is getting replaced, it’s almost a new truck. New gauges are in the plans (exhaust gas temp, boost, and trans oil temp). The pod will mount above the rear view mirror. But that’s a few months away.

any other items to consider at this stage, or do I have everything covered?

I was intending to replace all the oil cooler seals but the shop discouraged it since it wasn’t leaking and my oil pressure has always been healthy. That saved an hour or two of labor and knowing myself, a new cooler. It can wait given how deep I’m into it now. Supposedly it’s a 3 hour job with the engine in and body on.

 

IF you are keeping it stock with no tunes, and IF you are staying with only 3 gauges, loose the boost gauge. Get a fuel pressure gauge, mount the sender on the passenger side of the fuel bowl on the port near the drain valve.

Way more useful for troubleshooting and fuel system health, including preventing damage to the injectors. That and EGT gauge are the 2 things you cannot already monitor digitally thru the OBD port

 

Do it NOW! It's a 30 minute job since the oil and coolant are already drained and it's on a stand! It's not if it starts leaking, it's WHEN. It has nothing to do with oil pressure either.

All this time and expense in it at this point and you're going to skimp out on a job that is infinitely easier and cheaper now?

 

​​​​​​I can't imagine why on earth he would suggest to not re-ring the oil cooler while the engine is out, the oil coolers are a very common leak point. Since he mentioned oil pressure, are you sure he wasn't talking about the LPOP( low pressure oil pump)?

 

I second the fuel pressure gauge. It’s a really boring gauge if everything is going well. But cuts out a huge part of diagnosis if a running issue pops up.

If you decide to reseal the oil cooler make sure to use high quality orings. The other fellas can tell you which ones. I’m guessing you want Motorcraft.

 

If I were you... I would have the oil cooler resealed, replace all of the engine o-rings including the oil rails with a a kit from Diesel-O-Rings. Also replace the glow plugs with OEM, Spicer U-joints on front end and drive shaft, BlueTop steering gear, wheel bearings, regear to 4.10 if you desire, silicone radiator hoses, all new boots and clamps, Riffraff plenums, install turbo compressor and KC turbine billet wheels, Trombetta GPR, high voltage IDM, new brake rotors, calipers and pads, new tires including spare, new bulbs where the original are in need of replacement, service and recharge the AC to include evaporator coil, condenser and the little screen thing that the name escapes me. New OEM injectors, ELC coolant with a water pump and thermostat. Check the front cover for leaks and replace the HPOP.

Also, new windshield if yours is damaged at all.

Lastly, I would be looking for a warranty in writing on ALL of the work being completed and drive away with confidence that you will not be charged for any further work required on the parts and areas you had serviced.

The goal of this would be to have a new vehicle that will last for another 20 years or to sell it for $40,000. This is the very best time to evaluate and replace ANYTHING and EVERYTHING since the body is off and the engine is out.

 

With the engine out and on a stand, with fluids drained, it makes perfect sense to reseal the oil cooler. Only use OEM motorcraft / alliant orings and gaskets