The first leak was a HPOP seal ($1,280). After bringing it home, the next morning there was a small drip coming from the same lowest point. Also the "service engine soon" light came on so I immediately brought it back. This time they found a sensor beginning to fail. I forget what the sensor is called but I attached a picture of its location circled in red.
The shop informed me that they had to take the body off the chassis to get the engine out (according to the Ford procedure). If they were to take it out the front or bottom would require cutting/welding. The next step is to chemical clean the entire engine / transmission assembly and inspect every inch. I should be viewing the separated parts Monday. Pictures attached.

Since the body is off, I want to replace the body mount bushings and looking for recommendations. Sure they are 22 years old and generally look pretty decent, however it's much easier to do this now.

Who makes the best bushings for durability, comfort, and quiet?

 

They removed the cab for a bad ICP sensor?

The only time to remove an engine is if the oil pan or the front timing cover are leaking, usually pan leaks are rare but the oil dipstick is common but there's a $300 solution for that problem so the engine won't come out

As for cab mounts the factory ones are good, polyurethane tend to ride stiffer, and you can feel more vibrations than the rubber ones.

 

Just gonna say it.....

You got ****ed.

 

The body had to be removed to remove the engine to fix the oil pan seal.

 

Does anyone know what the OEM part number(s) is ?

 

I dont have the oem numbers, but s&b make the best bushings in the market.
S&b cab bushings, 99-03 excursion

 

We sell the same ones without the tax 😉

 

Might as well replace every o ring that hasn't been recently changed... never gonna be easier. Oil cooler for example.
hutch and harpoon mod been done?

 

My girlfriend just said she would have pulled the engine to repair the oil pan before the body plus engine lol. The engine is removed from the frame as there is not enough clearance to drop the oil pan and perform the job with the engine installed. Maybe I’m missing something because it’s an excursion. A few people have installed a gasket without engine removal however I’m unsure of long term reliability with that method. What a clusterf*** way to remove the oil cap as well. not bashing you just the shop I’ve been on the receiving end before not fun having to re do “professional mechanics “ work costing additional thousands. Would recommend replacing the up pipes but I’m concerned how much it would cost at that place and how much you’d have to pay in parts. Should be under 30 mins w the body off. When I see 1280 for a HPOP leak I’m thinking at that dollar amount should have installed a brand new hpop vs paying labor to repair the old one.

 

I’ll risk sounding stupid here… what and where are the up pipes?
How much should they cost?

Another question is what body mount bushings to install, silicone for $800, polyurethane for $230, or Kevlar for $280 ?

 

IMHO, that shop is NOT qualified to work on 7.3L engines. You are getting royally screwed.

 

Your money, guy. You bought into their lies/incompetence (can't tell which it is) and believed it.

$1280 for a high pressure oil pump seal? The flat rate time for the pump is 2.1 hours. If they didn't even install a new pump, you just paid $560/hr minus whatever the fitting seal kit, non-serviceable plug kit, and mounting gasket cost - which is easily less than $100 wherever you are. Three o-rings, a gasket, and maybe even a non-serviceable plug kit.....but I doubt they did everything while the pump was off. That's a <$200 repair for me and <$400 at a normal shop rate. I'd be less than $1280 doing the whole engine removal, pan leak fix, and any little extras along the way.

I don't see any good pictures of the bottom of the engine but is the pan or dipstick tube adapter even leaking? Did they tell you it was leaking just to suck 20+ hours of labor out of you? At almost $600/hr (going off of HPOP "reseal") that's $12,000 and they get quite the pizza party! There are ways to permanently fix the adapter without spending THOUSANDS of dollars. They removed the body because they told you that they'd have to cut and weld to remove the engine without that procedure? HA. SkySkiJason or I (as well as a frw others) would have that engine on the stand and already flipped upside down in less than 3 hours.....without disturbing the brakes, air conditioning, and numerous other things that take more time to put back together. Believe it or not, these are some of the easiest engines to remove in anything a guy could hope to work on.

I'm sorry to be so critical about this whole thing but these guys are running you through the wringer and they know it. If it's not bothering you to pay these guys to perform these atrocities on your wallet (and backside), by all means enjoy your Excursion when it's done. But the thread title describing the status of repair costs says otherwise........

 

Sir, would you mind sharing with us the name and location of the shop your vehicle is at? If you prefer not to, we understand and would appreciate only the city and state.

Thank you for your understanding and we hope it works out for you.

 

Assumption this is in CA based on the photo including the license plate.

I’m still at a stage of disbelief regarding this whole mess.

 

@Rainmaker1 sometimes you just gotta make it rain. Sorry I felt your name was slightly ironic. Just poking fun man, seriously though I hope everything goes well for you and they don't overcharge you too much.