That was my assumption or guestimation as well, but I wanted to be sure as I NEVER want to recommend this shop to anyone.

 

Why the rush to order body mounts? Just wait until your next oil change interval, then when they remove the body to access the oil fill cap on the valve cover they can swap out body mounts.

I'm in the wrong busine$$... Granted I have a conscious so there's that holding me back...

 

Yeah that sucks.

But where to go from here. For the bushings I'd say silicone, simply because I know the durometer of silicone can be precisely calibrated. So if someone really wanted to dial in comfort it could be done. Most likely still gonna ride like a Conestoga wagon.

I gather they are resealing the oil pan, because the official method requires turning the engine upside down to let the special RTV cure for 24 hours. That's how IH did it at the factory. Getting that job done properly is a big plus. Too many stories of hack "repairs" on that score. And since the pan is off I'd address the common oil leak at the dipstick flange adapter. Usually either a new flange is welded in (cheaper) or wait for it to go bad and install the golden nugget.

Bellowed up pipes for sure! OEM always leak eventually and now is the time, easy to get at. I used cheap Dormans but they often need grinder love to fit well. Since someone else is doing the install I'd buy quality, like these.

Reseal the oil cooler.

New serpentine belt and tensioner.

Prolly other stuff I'm forgetting.

On edit: the up pipes direct the exhaust flow to the turbo so it can compress the intake air. When the uppies leak there is less drive pressure to make boost. So the EGTs will get too high potentially melting internal engine parts, HP will drop off, and the truck will blow black smoke. The OEM design is just not good and will always fail eventually.

 

Thank you so much for the good tips. I just replaced the tensioner and serpentine belt last year. Hopefully it doesn’t get damaged in this ordeal.
After researching body mount bushings, there only exists 3 choices; polyurethane (much stiffer than rubber OEM), polyurethane / Kevlar (probably stiffer than polyurethane), and silicone (closer to the ride characteristics of rubber). OEM is now obsolete. It appears the silicone from S&B are the only logical choice.

 

The engine/trans were separated, the engine was pulled out and being drained. By tomorrow it will get cleaned.
Upon inspection and review with the technician, he identified a fuel leak from the fuel pump, it looks like the rear main seal is leaking, and the oil pan seal. We discussed the dip stick oil pan fitting. They assured me that after the oil pan is off, it will get cleaned, inspected, and a new seal installed.
The plan is to replace parts that would be costly after it’s all together in the truck such as;

1- Up pipes
(Need Source)
2- Water pump
(OEM available $249)
3- High pressure fuel pump
(OEM available $743)
4- Power steering gearbox hydraulic hoses
(Shop supplied)
5- Motor mounts
(no OEM avail : Need Source)
6- Body mount bushings
(no OEM avail) (S&B Filters Silicone $899)
7- Fuel sending unit (inside the tank)
(OEM available $535)

Some of these parts are either unavailable, unavailable in California, or only available as remanufactured.

Any suggestions where I can find or get bellowed up-pipes in or to California? I checked with Extreme Diesel and they cannot ship any to California. In stainless steel they should cost around $200 from what I can see.

I also need a source on motor mounts. Any help?

 

Great to know the up pipes will be replaced, that's important. Get whatever bellowed uppies you can get. Do NOT replace with stock non-bellowed up pipes. I believe Riff Raff will deliver to CA. Or get Dorman pn 679-005 from a local source.

There is no high pressure fuel pump on any 7.3 engine. Very common on later diesel engines tho. Only a low pressure fuel pump on 7.3s, mounted on the frame under the driver door. But there is a high pressure oil pump, aka hpop. Maybe that's the part. Replacing or rebuilding is not a bad idea, can be source of oil leaks.

Also no such thing as a "fuel sending unit" in the fuel tank. But maybe that is just terminology. There are fuel screens in the tank that tend to clog, but that is not an issue here apparently. There is a fuel level sending unit, if your fuel level gauge was not working.

I've never heard of motor mounts needing to be replaced. Never. If that is just precautionary advice don't do it.

 

I want a piece of the pie!!

What $743 fuel pump on the engine have I not been upselling all these years? I want pictures of this thing as it sounds like a real profit generator!

 

At this point I’m concerned about this shops ability to diagnose where the leaks are coming from. One of the challenges with a 7.3 is most of the leaks from the engine eventually end up dripping onto the ground in the same place, where the OP showed in his picture, hence why it’s common to think a rear main is leaking when in reality it may not. Your mechanic may get everything just by throwing darts and hitting everything. I would be very cautious of hpop lines , fuel bowl reseal, and any lines that are removed but not replaced(seals).

 

For that price, I would be willing to drop his tank and do the same mod to his that I did to mine. Parts and labor, all included!

 

High pressure fuel pump?

Might as well have em put on a new flux capacitor
Link

Not a bad idea to have em preventatively swap it out too while they are incorrectly sealing the oil pan with a gasket...

The oil pan uses a specific Motorcraft rtv, the moroso gasket is a band aid fix used when you don't go thru the trouble of pulling the motor, which based on the pictures and this thread is the reason they supposedly did a body off frame pull to get to the ICP sensor, vs standing flat footed on the ground at the bumper and stretching their arm out and laying their hand on it....


It's not too late to have em put it all on 2 flatbeds and take it to a shop that has a clue what they are doing....


I guess you bought vasoline by the case and want to use it before it goes bad tho

 

1- Up pipes paid

300 bellowed for my truck
(Need Source)
2- Water pump
(OEM available $249)
paid 200 at the dealer


3- High pressure fuel pump
(OEM available $743)
there’s only one fuel pump Bosch replacementOEM paid 80 (full assembly from the dealer is about 400 would only recommend if there was an accident and the assembly housing/electric is severely damaged) 15 minute job

4- Power steering gearbox hydraulic hoses
(Shop supplied) shop supplied feels like let’s buy cheap stuff and over charge…
paid about 300 for a blue top upgrade and the hoses are about 80,80,65, 30,30
My motorcraft lasted 40k till it started getting play….imagine a cheaper made one


5- Motor mounts
(no OEM avail : Need Source)
can’t advise on this one obviously use Motorcraft

6- Body mount bushings
(no OEM avail) (S&B Filters Silicone $899)
thanks for letting me know I need 899 for this part on my truck lol

7- Fuel sending unit (inside the tank)
(OEM available $535)
535 sounds decent I’ve seen 600 plus on this part.
However what’s the reason it’s being changed are you having problems?

8. special RTV for the oil pan mentioned above

you should provide all those parts or it’s only going to get worse even if you have to spend 500 in overnight shipping for all the orders. You were ready to drop 743 on the fuel pump so cut that back to 80 and be ready to pay heavy for shipping. Prices listed are from various points in time and may have changed slightly.

 

Several people have already said this, but I guess you like this shop....but in my opinion, I would take everything to another shop ASAP!! This shop is overcharging you on basically everything, as well as selling you stuff that it appears you don't really need. But then again, it's your money so do with it as you please.

 

Aside from the high cost and numerous repairs I want to make a suggestion/comment(?) about the dipstick adapter. This is a common failure point on these trucks. I would not be comfortable with it being resealed with factory style parts. Aftermarket companies make a weld in version and a couple others that are improved from the original. I would consider using one of these upgraded adapters.

Definitely do the bellowed uppipes. Even the cheap Dormans or such will be a far improvement over stock style.

I’m trying to keep quiet about the repair bill but I cringe every time you post about the shop’s planned work. They really are taking you for a ride.

I don’t remember ever seeing a “rear main seal leak” on the forum that’s actually been a rear main seal leak. Although I have read where folks have trouble with this seal after a replacement though. I wish they would have done more diagnosis before claiming this as the leak source.

Good luck. We’re rooting for you.

 

I went through some similar toils a couple years ago. Went in for oil leak at the dipstick adapter, and for bigger injectors, valve springs, push rods and studs. Mechanic ended up changing head gaskets with the studs ended said he needed to. When I got the truck back popped hg within 2 weeks. Found out that I had to fire ring to fix at this point which ended up having to rebuild heads. Sorry about the rant but I have been down a similar road. What I have learned is it is hard to find a good honest mechanic. Also important to find one that specifically knows the 7.3. Good luck 🍀

 

In my opinion, this sort of treatment of a customer that is somewhat at the mercy of the shop now that their vehicle is in 100 pieces should be considered criminal. In my opinion, there is no reason for this behavior from the shop or the employees other than to rip someone off.

If this were happening to a friend of mine I would help them find a lawyer and start making some phone calls to the BBB, the local bureau of commerce and local law enforcement. I would also help them remove the truck from the "shop" by any means necessary.

Shameful...