Hello everybody I’ve went from a no start to having a miss under partial load. Not as noticeable under WOT. Here’s the history.
2005 F350 with 2006 engine no start, I found the driver side stand pipe oring completely shot. So far I’ve replaced the starter,battery,alternator, stand pipes, dummy plugs, IPR and oil/Filter. Using all Motocraft parts. (Except starter and Alternator). The truck starts right up now and drives pretty decent. At idle in gear there’s noticeable shake and it’s really noticeable at or below 1500rpm cruising down the road. I have fuel filters, and oil/fuel additives ordered. I’m thinking there’s a bad injector. How do I test the injectors? IDS clone? I’m not even sure what that is and where to buy one. Any help with this would be appreciated.

 

Get an OBDII adapter - Bluetooth if you're adroid, wifi for Iphone. Then download the Forscan app for ~$5. That lets you monitor life data from the trucks sensors and check/clear fault codes. BATX makes a popular adapter. Available on Ebay/Amazon.

You're prolly getting codes for whichever injector is misfiring. The scanner at Autozone might capture that info as well, but I don't trust them to capture every code.

 

I have a scan gauge 2 and there’s no codes or engine light.

 

Hmm, not much to go on. You can take the top fuel filter cap off, crank the engine from under the hood with ignition off, and watch to see if bubbles appear, which would tell you if an injector was leaking. If so, you can cap off one of the fuel lines coming out of that bowl, then crank it again to see if the bubbles go away. Switch sides and do it again to make sure you don't have leaky injectors on both sides. At least narrows it down to one side. Or, if they're misfiring but not leaky, you can aim a laser thermometer at the exhaust manifold, one port at a time to see which ones are cooler, indicating that they're not firing. You can also just pull the wire on injectors while it's running to notice a difference in the idle. No difference, that injector isn't firing.

BTW, the consensus here is that the SGII doesn't read codes well; it'll not pick up some. However, it may be that it's less effective with the other modules (transmission, instrument cluster, chassis, etc) and not so bad with the basic PCM/engine codes. You can just go by a decent shop and ask them to do a contribution balance test with their SnapOn/IDS/or similar professional data reader. I've had several do it for free, but others have charged me, up to $80 at one shop.

 

Scangauge 2 is a very poor code reader. It will frequently miss a LOT of codes. Edit - sorry for the repeat message. Didn't see your last post @IHateCommieCars

 

Haha not sure how I never thought of doing some basic checks with my temp gun and unplugging injectors. I will also check for bubbles in the fuel. I have a little better code reader at work (innova forget model number) I will plug it in too and see what I can find. Thanks for your help!

 

Could there be codes stored for a bad injector but no check engine light? Thanks

 

Yes .

 

Good to know. I’ll check a few things and post my results.

 

So here’s what I’ve found. No air bubbles at all in the fuel filter housing while cranking. It’s hard to get your temp gun onto each cylinder exhaust pipe but they were all within 10C so pretty damn close. I think I’ll take it by a shop who can check the injectors for me. Also no codes with a Innova 3100 code reader. Thanks

 

Not surprising. ForScan is more thorough and way cheaper.