If you are going to use your truck for show, 3/4 thick oak boards should work fine. Even light loads and grocery getting. But if you are going to use your truck for heavier work, I would be afraid of 3/4 thick oak. It would have a tendency to split if something heavy gave it a good wack. I think the factory used a full sheet of 3/4 plywood didn't they in the later years? 3/4 plywood would be stronger than 3/4 thick individual boards, since the plywood is layered in alternating directions.

I thnk that is why the factory grooved the boards, to get enough thickness to withstand heavy use.

 

They were grooved to fit the bed strips. When boards were used, the bed strips sat into the boards. When they switched to plywood later, they also changed the metal strips. With the plywood, the metal strips sat on top of the plywood (no grooves at all). I assumed the switch to plywood was to save costs and assembly time. They probably knew by then anyway that the wood floor beds only had a couple years left before being retired.

 

Yeah you’re right. That’s another way of cutting them. Your suggestion probably is best.

 

[QUOTE=Franklin2;20592779]If you are going to use your truck for show, 3/4 thick oak boards should work fine. Even light loads and grocery getting. But if you are going to use your truck for heavier work, I would be afraid of 3/4 thick oak. It would have a tendency to split if something heavy gave it a good wack. I think the factory used a full sheet of 3/4 plywood didn't they in the later years? 3/4 plywood would be stronger than 3/4 thick individual boards, since the plywood is layered in alternating directions.

I thnk that is why the factory grooved the boards, to get enough thickness to withstand heavy use.[/QUOTE

Thats a good point about the thickness. I think they grooved the boards so that the channels are recessed into the wood creating a flat surface. I’m half tempted to use 1 inch boards. I have some ruff cut lumber 1 inch. If I used that, I wouldn’t have to spend a dime. I like the look of ruff cut lumber more. It gives a vintage look to the bed. It’s stronger, plus your adding thickness. I’m just afraid it will raise the look of the bed too high. But, it’s only a quarter inch. My truck is a Sunday driver only. For that reason I could also go cheap and use pine. And maybe use a car paint clear on it to save it from warping should I get caught in a heavy rain.

 

That will be a challenge.
l had planned on using my circular (Skil) saw, but an opportunity arose when my wife had some craft-y project she was doing that involved wood. I convinced her (not untruthfully) that a table saw was what she (we) needed... now l (we) have a table saw.

 

Table saw is fine for straight cuts but you need to cut the 2 side planks / panels for the wheel clearance.
Look at the side panels see how they turn inside the bed for clearance the wood also need to be done the same way.

On my metal floor that area come right up to a floor seam where the center panel butts up to the 2 side panels.
I used a sazall to cut this area as there was noway my jig saw could cut it.

Dave ----

 

I'll be crossing that bridge eventually. I'd be more concerned w getting laser-straight long cuts and then dealing with hacking out the wheelwells later... probably w a Sawzall, like you did.
3/4" (or more) is a big ask from a jigsaw

 

As mentioned. The fender well boards have curved cuts. That’s why you have to use a jigsaw. A sawsall will work but is more difficult to make precise curved cuts. You will hack that corner to death with a sawsall. A router tool used to cut drywall would be best. But, I don’t have one. Lol !