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OME 2.25 F250 Lift here with extra Dakar leaf in rear. Tucks the Firestone 37” MT2 up nicely!
Need some wheel well trimming but would fit up to 40”. 5.13 gears really helped and it runs great on the highway also going to the keys.
Followed along with this build. Wanted to do a Land Cruiser but just wasn’t enough space with all the kids and boat in tow. https://youtu.be/QXRbJMLq_B4
That 10” BDS is gonna be monster.
looks nice. I go back and forth on what I want to do. Right now I’m leaning towards 35 or 37 mt2’s (I can get them 50% off at work)
Rough country stuff works (I've used them a few times over the years), but its on the budget end of the lift kit range. You know that kit, new from Rough Country with free shipping and original purchaser warranty, is only $1600.
Yeah I know, the kit was brand new never installed. My thought process was it was way less than what I was going to get and if I hate it I’ll just buy the one I want next and sell this one.
An 8 inch F250 lift will probably result in about 10-12 inches of lift on an Excursion.
It should look pretty good at least, assuming you put some appropriately sized tires under that much lift ( thinking like 42+ inches).
Probably won’t be much good on twisty roads or towing though, but everything is a compromise I suppose.
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So, a bit of time has passed but I have done some work. I have installed the 8 inch f250 lift and I went with 40x14.5x24 tires. I also installed front and rear Tom woods driveshafts. For the rear aftermarket sway bar I installed the lift rough country links they sell for the f250 kit. I had t trim the front bumper plastic a small amount to keep it from rubbing. It rubs a little bit on the leafs at full lock, so I might put spacers on it.
edit: do you guys think the rear is a little squatted, maybe come up an inch or so?
edit 2: I also installed a mishimoto trans cooler. Currently has a 2 degree shim on the front. No shim on the rear. The rear drive shaft is now a dc shaft. I need to research how to install longer pins to accommodate the 4 degree shims. I was thinking about getting custom angled blocks for the rear from pmf to get the driveline angle better.
Before
Tire Wheel
Front only with stock wheels Front only with new wheels
Was not sure if I had to use the factory blocks, I did lol.
Is it just an optical illusion from the picture angles or are the wheels (especially the rear) not centered in the wheel well? Looks like both axles (again, more so on the rear axle) have been slid forward.
As for if its squatting or not, a tape measure will tell you for sure without guessing. However, leaf springs do tend to settle in after a bit, so you may want to drive it around for awhile to let everything settle in before you start correcting level.
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Is it just an optical illusion from the picture angles or are the wheels (especially the rear) not centered in the wheel well? Looks like both axles (again, more so on the rear axle) have been slid forward.
As for if its swatting or not, a tape measure will tell you for sure without guessing. However, leaf springs do tend to settle in after a bit, so you may want to drive it around for awhile to let everything settle in before you start correcting level.
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it isn’t as dramatic in person but the do appear to be off center a little bit. Idk.
Is it just an optical illusion from the picture angles or are the wheels (especially the rear) not centered in the wheel well? Looks like both axles (again, more so on the rear axle) have been slid forward.
As for if its swatting or not, a tape measure will tell you for sure without guessing. However, leaf springs do tend to settle in after a bit, so you may want to drive it around for awhile to let everything settle in before you start correcting level.
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yeah, I’m going to have to agree with you based on the photos. It looks like they’re slightly forward.
For the rear, you could utilize these components from PMF to scoot your rear axle backward AND pick up another inch or two to achieve the stance you want. PMF - Lift Blocks PMF - Alignment plates
As for the front I think it’s advantageous to be a bit forward. Right now my 37s are EATING the rear portion of the wheel well when I go into compression. Frankly they’re just too damn big with leaf springs. Nevertheless, I wouldn’t try to slide the axle back, Instead go to an aftermarket front bumper. Typically they’re cut/clearanced at an angle that negates the visual appearance of it being slid forward.
yeah, I’m going to have to agree with you based on the photos. It looks like they’re slightly forward.
For the rear, you could utilize these components from PMF to scoot your rear axle backward AND pick up another inch or two to achieve the stance you want. PMF - Lift Blocks PMF - Alignment plates
As for the front I think it’s advantageous to be a bit forward. Right now my 37s are EATING the rear portion of the wheel well when I go into compression. Frankly they’re just too damn big with leaf springs. Nevertheless, I wouldn’t try to slide the axle back, Instead go to an aftermarket front bumper. Typically they’re cut/clearanced at an angle that negates the visual appearance of it being slid forward.
I was already looking at those because the unbolts from the kit were to short and the sell angled block that could make the driveshaft geometry better. I email them but haven’t heard back yet.
I was already looking at those because the unbolts from the kit were to short and the sell angled block that could make the driveshaft geometry better. I email them but haven’t heard back yet.
First things first, like Anton said, let it settle in.
Secondly, if you don’t already own one, get this digital angle gauge from Harbor Freight. That will allow you to genuinely assess any discrepancy between your pinion angle and transfer case, and then be able to shim appropriately. The PMF blocks are available in 1.25°, 2.5° and 5° so that's a good start. If your needs fall in between you might call them and see if they can make you a block that is exactly built to your circumstances. Worse case they say no and you add shims from WFO Concepts.
Also, if you're currently reusing the factory block, it needs to go bye bye when you get your new blocks. You likely already realize this, but I feel it's something always worth repeating so you or someone else reading this later doesn't end up on the next episode of Just Rolled In.
