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Hi everyone, been working hard trying to source a motor for my bus project. I have a line on one not far from me. But I am concerned about engine compression and overall health.
Seller says it was from a truck with a rotted out frame. He bought it and removed the engine to swap into another truck of his… regardless now it’s for sale and sitting on a stand in his garage.
So, what is required to do a compression test on this motor while it’s removed and on an engine stand? He’s telling me the hpop is currently removed. That probably needs to go back on and have lines reinstalled? Correct?
I know the obvious needs would be; starter, battery for the starter and a button to activate starter. But other than that I’m not sure what would be required to check cylinder compression.
Rich ( @Tugly ) has a thread with a detailed description of how he vetted an engine out of the truck when he was looking to replace his. Life ended up choosing a different route for him and I believe he sold the engine.
I looked for the thread, but am on my tablet and it was not the easiest task to complete. Perhaps you will have better luck or he will be along shortly to point you in the right direction.
You will need to have the automatic transmission adapter bolted to the engine and then put a starter on it...meaning you will need the engine to be sitting on the ground.
A GOOD set of jumper cables and a good battery are all you will need to get the engine to crank (4 gauge parts store ones will not work). A 13mm deep socket and a 13mm wrench are the only requirements for the valve covers and a 10mm semi-deep 1/4" drive socket for the glow plugs. Then the proper gauge and adapter.......
You will need to have the automatic transmission adapter bolted to the engine and then put a starter on it...meaning you will need the engine to be sitting on the ground.
A GOOD set of jumper cables and a good battery are all you will need to get the engine to crank (4 gauge parts store ones will not work). A 13mm deep socket and a 13mm wrench are the only requirements for the valve covers and a 10mm semi-deep 1/4" drive socket for the glow plugs. Then the proper gauge and adapter.......
good luck.
can you elaborate on the transmission adapter a little? I’m unfamiliar….
I’m sure we can do that, he has the trans out as well
It's a plate that bolts between the motor and transmission that the starter bolts to. Starter doesn't bolt to the motor. So to start it will need to mount starter.
The starter mounts to this, not the engine block or automatic transmission bellhousing.
The starter bolts to the manual transmission bellhousing but it's not a separate part on a 99-up so unless you have the whole transmission for those model years or the adapter for a manual 95-97, you won't be able to crank the engine to check compression.
The starter mounts to this, not the engine block or automatic transmission bellhousing.
The starter bolts to the manual transmission bellhousing but it's not a separate part on a 99-up so unless you have the whole transmission for those model years or the adapter for a manual 95-97, you won't be able to crank the engine to check compression.
copy, I have one of those on my blown up engine I acquired……
The leak down test Walleye mentioned would likely be a little simpler and possibly more accurate of a gauge of sealing capabilities of the rings and valves. Will also point to what is leaking if there is one. Just need the 13mm and 10mm already mentioned and an 8mm for the rocker pedestals, plus shop air. Oh and your GP adapter.
On the matter of a leakdown test...is there a writeup somewhere on what is needed and how it's done? I could start gathering the parts needed to perform those.
On the matter of a leakdown test...is there a writeup somewhere on what is needed and how it's done? I could start gathering the parts needed to perform those.
The most basic method is to put the cylinder at tdc and apply shop air to a glow plug adapter and see if it leaks and if so where. Rings will leak to the crankcase, intake valves to the intake obviously, same w/ exhaust valves. If it shows in the cooling system then blown head gasket, cracked head or cylinder, or injector cup. There is also a fancy regulator setup w/double gauges that can show the pressure applied and the cylinder pressure or % of leak down.
On the matter of a leakdown test...is there a writeup somewhere on what is needed and how it's done? I could start gathering the parts needed to perform those.
I believe this is what Tugly did and I mentioned in post #2.
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