2000 7.3 red flags?
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Trailering
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 18
Likes: 4
Retorqueing all the water pump and front cover bolts would probably fix the new leak. Don't want to go crazy on them, just another round at factory spec. If none really turn at that setting maybe try bumping up 2# but probably not much more. If I remember right factory spec is like 20# so 2 more is a 10% increase. I don't like to press my luck when aluminum is involved.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
I would definitely track the leak down before writing it off as a non issue, but if someone pulled a head chances are they may have pulled some front cover or pump bolts to move a bracket or something. If so that could be the source of the coolant leak. If the smoke smells of raw diesel fuel and only happens on a cold engine then I wouldn't worry much. If it smells like burnt oil or coolant I'd thank him for his time and walk.
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,813
Likes: 1,335
From: Elk Grove, CA
The sway bar end links look beat, and when gone you will hear them thump on the floorboards over bumps. Not a major repair.
Looks like the front crank seal or low pressure oil pump is leaking a bit. Again hand tools cheap parts and time.
The front end lift looks amateur, u bolts too long. One bent as a result. Might operate just fine for years but it seems there are 5 added leaf chunks on passenger side and only 4 on driver side?
The clamp is missing from the lower radiator hose to lower outlet. Might explain the coolant drip. Or it's the water pump. Either way doable.
There seems to be lots of black exhaust residue on the passenger side of the block, maybe from a perforated exhaust back pressure tube. Not uncommon and will throw a code and reduce performance.
The rust on the frame etc is more than I would expect from a Southern truck but not at all bad from a Northern truck.
Looks like the front crank seal or low pressure oil pump is leaking a bit. Again hand tools cheap parts and time.
The front end lift looks amateur, u bolts too long. One bent as a result. Might operate just fine for years but it seems there are 5 added leaf chunks on passenger side and only 4 on driver side?
The clamp is missing from the lower radiator hose to lower outlet. Might explain the coolant drip. Or it's the water pump. Either way doable.
There seems to be lots of black exhaust residue on the passenger side of the block, maybe from a perforated exhaust back pressure tube. Not uncommon and will throw a code and reduce performance.
The rust on the frame etc is more than I would expect from a Southern truck but not at all bad from a Northern truck.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,487
Likes: 217
Looks like the hose clamp is there it’s just all covered with goo. You. Ann barely see the band if the clamp to the left as it starts to curve around.
The rust…is really surface. A air gun with a rust scale brush would clean it up.
the “lift kit” is a joke. I wouldn’t put that on a vehicle if my life depended on it. A small 2-3 inch lift kit isn’t that expensive.
the leaks…best way I ever found leaks is to power wash the area to get rid of all the grease dirt and crap. Take baby powder and sprinkle it all over the engine crevices etc. the leak will seep into the van powder and you’ll see where it’s leaking.
the used car market is softening and 7.3s are really dropping in price
The rust…is really surface. A air gun with a rust scale brush would clean it up.
the “lift kit” is a joke. I wouldn’t put that on a vehicle if my life depended on it. A small 2-3 inch lift kit isn’t that expensive.
the leaks…best way I ever found leaks is to power wash the area to get rid of all the grease dirt and crap. Take baby powder and sprinkle it all over the engine crevices etc. the leak will seep into the van powder and you’ll see where it’s leaking.
the used car market is softening and 7.3s are really dropping in price
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