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I have a 2000 F150 5.4L 4x4. When the vehicle is running there is a constant stream of coolant shooting out from under the #1 injector at a 45° angle in the direction of the steering wheel. Has anybody heard of this before or something similar? And possibly a fix for it. If I don't get my truck fixed my wife can't go visit the grandkids and I can't get any peace and quiet. I'm not a great trouble shooter but once I know the problem I can remove and install anything.
I would like to thank everyone who provided solutions to my problem. Turns out I needed a new intake manifold. I replaced the manifold, flushed the system, changed the spark plugs and it's running like new. Thank you all so much.😁😁
Last edited by 2ringer6; Jul 25, 2021 at 06:39 AM.
Reason: Problem solved
From my experience, 9 times out of 10 it is the head gasket. You're looking at about 17 hours of labour plus parts to do both head gaskets (if you do one, do both or you will regret it later. It is a big job and only you can decide if it's worth it to fix. Might be a good time to look at the timing chains and tensioners while you're in there.
On your 2000 5.4 did you get lucky and get the metal intake or unlucky and get the plastic one?
If you are going to do the head gaskets, remember to leave the head bolts (after losing them and you can pull them up) in the back to be able to remove the heads. You have to put those bolts in first and then place the head back on. (Get a very good bright color to mark the head bolts on top so you can see 90 degrees more on the last two torques when you replace the bolts or not replace them up to you on that one as some people do and some do not.)
Torque setting is 30 foot-pounds the first time and then 90 degrees and then 90 degrees more the last time.
If you are going to change the timing chain you may as well change the oil pump with a high-pressure type and NOT FORDS.
You do not have to remove the oil pan to do this if you get the flop/flip/flex over type ratchet wrench and it is an 8mm bolts two each. Place a rag down in the oil pan to catch the bolt if you drop it and have a flex-type magnet also just in case. (If you decide to remove the oil pan you're going to have fun and add hours to the job as you have to drop the front chunk/axle assembly down to be able to remove the oil pan on a 4x4 or pay someone else to do the job).
The oil tube has an o-ring that you need to replace and you take a flat head screwdriver and gently work the tube off the o-ring. Just remember to pre-lube the new oil pump before cranking the engine. Setting up the timing is very easy on one of the engines and if you have questions just ask on here.
I would guess it was the cross-over pipe ( coolant) from one side to the other.
I think you may be right on that after rereading his post. (Old eyes and fat fingers)
Sometimes you can get lucky with JB weld steal/seal. Or just change the intake and gaskets for a rough guess if he does it for around $ 250.00 for parts.
Sounds like a leaking intake manifold gasket. You can replace the gaskets for the intake manifold, but of it is the original intake manifold they are prone to problems. May be best to replace the intake manifold. Not too bad of a job to do with simple hand tools.
check the oil and see if there is any coolant showing up in the oil. Presence of coolant in the oil, or lack of presence, can eliminate or point to the possible sources.
It sprays immediately upon cold starting and stops as soon as you turn it off.
My guess is a bad intake/coolant crossover gasket and maybe a blown head gasket. Intake gasket being where you can see the coolant spraying and head gasket being where the pressure is being created to push the coolant. It's also possible that the intake/coolant gasket is so bad that the water pump is making enough pressure to spray coolant out. A simple test would be to take the belt off and start the engine, if it doesn't spray then it's just the water pump pushing the coolant out so you just need to address the visible leak. If it does spray you've got a bigger problem.