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This is my second go 'round since May 2021 where I had to pull bell housing for a new clutch kit, resurfacing and slave. The slave failed last week and have replaced it and the clutch cylinder.
Cannot get but half - two thirds of a clutch and shifter grinds when trying to engage. Had to lurch it twice in 1st gear to free clutch and did manage to get it into second and down the road before limping back home. Have tried every method I know or ever heard of to bleed but the clutch pressure will not fully return enough to engage. Please help.
Last edited by Johnofbham; Sep 13, 2022 at 08:09 PM.
I used this trick on another vehicle so I don't know if it'll work with a Ford. it involves pressurizing the master cylinder with compressed air to work out the bubbles.
The MC cap may have a vent hole on it, mine did. Fill the MC to the top with brake fluid. Make sure the top is on tight. Use a blow gun with a rubber tip to blow 100psi compressed air into the master cylinder. It'll cycle the slave cylinder alittle without compressing the master cylinder. Cycle it about 5 times and then try your clutch pedal to see if it's better.
I just got a manual pump bleeder from harbor freight. Hooked it up to the bleeder and pumped away while someone poured fluid in the reservoir to make sure i didnt drain it. And was done in like 5 minutes.
Park the truck on as steep on incline as you can find. If it's totally flat where you are, jack up the front as high as you can. Then pump the pedal about 20 times and let it sit for an hour. Then repeat that about 4-5 times. This has always worked for me.
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