When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I put mine in the manifold from underneath.
It should be easy enough to find and follow the thermocouple lead.
My idle EGT after driving is about 425.
Hmm, might have to check that out, I never thought of that, also was just looking at Bellowed up pipes, it had an option for a V-Band coupler from the Collector to the Turbo, is that something I should replace as well or is that not a big deal??
Ive always been able to reuse that band, but some people damage it taking it apart. It doesn't really seal anything, just holds the two pieces together.
This is where I installed my EGT probe on the driver side manifold. I don't shut the truck off unless the EGT gauge reads 350° or below. This is not normally a problem as we use the truck to tow our 5th wheel 90% of the time and it takes a few moments to back into the site.
I often take the road less traveled though, so your mileage may vary...
Use the SkySkiJason v-band removal method of tapping with an air chisel. Otherwise it can be a real bear to break loose. Too far back to get anything on for a whack or smack. If you don’t have an air chisel this would be a good excuse to add a cheap one to your tool inventory.
Use the SkySkiJason v-band removal method of tapping with an air chisel. Otherwise it can be a real bear to break loose. Too far back to get anything on for a whack or smack. If you don’t have an air chisel this would be a good excuse to add a cheap one to your tool inventory.
Saw a video where a guy (maybe Ron) used a slide hammer with a hook type attachment to pop it off, worked slick…options are always nice.
Sorry for the hiatus, work asked for mandatory OT so we all know how that goes. I did order the Hydra, and also waiting on approval for the boss (Wife lol) to do the turbo, but have seen the process of rebuilding the turbo though so we’ll see where we go with that
Howdy Folks, the saga of repairs continues as today I lost all the speeds but Hi on the A/C-Heater fan. Not sure if this is a common problem or not with these rigs, any help is appreciated.
Blower motor resistor. Outside under the hood on the hvac box. Between the blower motor and evaporator core. Had one plug and 2 bolts. There was just a post on here the other day somebody broke the bolt off trying to get it out.
Howdy folks, I’m back! Update on the rig, the fan motor resistor was the issue. I’m the process of getting rid of the big ugly 5 spike rims and going with a set of black 20x10’s off a 2020 Super Duty, other than that nothing much has happened other than a startup issue I’ve been fighting all winter.
When I start it up in the cold it will run and idle but if the RPM’s get over 1500 rpm’s for any reason before it’s at “Operating Temp” on the dummy temp gauge the damn thing like cuts fuel and spits nd sputters and runs like dog**** and shuts off and is a bear to start back up. I messaged the PO and asked if he’s always had this problem and what oil it had in it he told me it’s new cause he’s never had it happen to him and he had put Mobile Delvac Full Synthetic 5W-40 in it and I was wondering if the thinner oil is the culprit or if it could be possibly a early sign of a IPR failure. Any suggestions help!!
(PS: this has only been an issue since it got cold in late October, had no issues starting up and taking off in 50-90 degree weather)
Blower motor resistor. Outside under the hood on the hvac box. Between the blower motor and evaporator core. Had one plug and 2 bolts. There was just a post on here the other day somebody broke the bolt off trying to get it out.
I've been dreading tearing into the dash, thinking it was a vacuum issue. Found OEM replacement on Amazon for $25 shipped! Ordered and on it's way. Thank you.
I've been dreading tearing into the dash, thinking it was a vacuum issue. Found OEM replacement on Amazon for $25 shipped! Ordered and on it's way. Thank you.
Vacuum only works all the blend doors and vents and stuff. The actual blow motor doesn't use any vacuum. It's pretty easy to do. It's under the hood. Hopefully you can get the plug off the factory one. Sometimes they melt together and can be a pain.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
