Trailer safety/chain hook woes
#16
Small price to pay for, IMO, the beefiest receiver hitch ever offered on a pickup. These things are tanks, and would rather have double the stamped steel reinforcement on something that holds your trailer to the tow vehicle in an emergency. I have never needed the hammer locks, but all my bumper pull trailers use the u-haul style chains that thread through then hook back onto themselves.
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#17
Small price to pay for, IMO, the beefiest receiver hitch ever offered on a pickup. These things are tanks, and would rather have double the stamped steel reinforcement on something that holds your trailer to the tow vehicle in an emergency. I have never needed the hammer locks, but all my bumper pull trailers use the u-haul style chains that thread through then hook back onto themselves.
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#18
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#19
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#20
Small price to pay for, IMO, the beefiest receiver hitch ever offered on a pickup. These things are tanks, and would rather have double the stamped steel reinforcement on something that holds your trailer to the tow vehicle in an emergency. I have never needed the hammer locks, but all my bumper pull trailers use the u-haul style chains that thread through then hook back onto themselves.
#23
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Somewhere south of Denver
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When this issue first came up in 2017 I was like, "What the heck are you talking about? My chains connect just fine." It's almost always seen as a problem on the 2.5" receiver. The 3" receiver, while not great, will fit every trailer I've connected to. On my biggest trailer, I do have to turn the hook sideways from the back to get it connected.
#24
On my ‘22 F350 the 1/4 hooks on the trailer safety chains wouldn’t quite fit either. I bought these 1/2 hooks but they were too big to get into the opening. Gonna try the 3/8 hooks next to see if they fit. I bought some hammerlocks but didn’t install them since I didn’t want to hear them clanging around back there every day. I was leery of using D rings since I’ve lost one before when it loosened up over time even after being tightened on. If the 3/8 hooks don’t fit I may weld a ring for a cotter pin on the screw pin of a D ring and run those.
#25
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#26
This approach works for me for both my camper and small utility trailer. Best option IMO, also the cost was right at FREE.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHMUhpdkOig
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHMUhpdkOig
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#27
Decided to give these a try. Kinda liked the rubber isolator- maybe it’ll keep rattle to minimum when not trailering?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07N1...b_b_prod_image
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07N1...b_b_prod_image
#28
No doubt many are. And I do I like the look of the hammerlocks, but for the money I picked up a set of 3/4” D Rings that are rated to almost 5 tons (working/breaking strength) for 1/3 the price. They are stronger than the chains on my 6000ob camper. If I ever move up to a heavier camper I would consider replacing the D Rings with hammerlocks. I did also replace the tiny hooks on the end of my chains with heavier duty Clovis hooks to. And I do love how beefy the Ford hitches are, but surely they could have designed them a little better because clearly many folks have issues with getting their hooks and chains connected.
#29
Shackles, good shackles, are stamped with the working load. If they're good quality, they're as strong as the stamp says they are. If they're not stamped, don't use them. Personally, if I went the d-ring way, I'd buy a set from Crosby to make sure I don't end up with some cheap, soft metal ****.
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#30
Mine are differently bigger then the pic Lux194 posted