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91 E350 Check Engine Light?

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Old Jun 13, 2022 | 08:35 AM
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91 E350 Check Engine Light?

Hey everyone,

I have a 1991 E-350 Club wagon w/ the 5.8L V8. I know the bulb for the CEL is working because when I turn the ignition to 'ON' it lights up.
The engine is shutting off on me randomly and the coolant temp gauge is stuck on cold.

Would I get a CEL light illuminated for a bad ECT or thermostat? This is my first OBD-I vehicle so I'm not sure what codes trigger the light and how to pull the codes.

Any help is appreciated.

 
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Old Jun 13, 2022 | 08:43 AM
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The light will not illuminate for a bad thermostat, but it should for a bad ECT.

Here is how to read the codes: www.troublecodes.net/ford
 
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Old Jun 13, 2022 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
The light will not illuminate for a bad thermostat, but it should for a bad ECT.

Here is how to read the codes: www.troublecodes.net/ford
Thanks Mark. I'm going to flush the coolant system and change the thermostat. Hopefully that helps.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2022 | 08:50 PM
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Look into the TFI module for the engine shutting off randomly
 
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Old Jun 14, 2022 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
Look into the TFI module for the engine shutting off randomly
Thanks. I pulled the codes in the morning with KOEO. I was getting 111 - SYSTEM OK and 338 - SYSTEM did not heat up (I never warmed up the car).
I added some coolant in the afternoon and then I started the van for about 5mins to let it warm-up and run KOER test. While it was warming up it shutoff.

I didn't think it was from overheating because it wasn't on very long. When I went to restart the engine I was getting a series of rapid clicks.

Tomorrow I'm going to check the battery and starter solenoid. It doesn't even try to crank so I don't think its the TFI.

I'm also going to inspect the grounds.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2022 | 06:34 AM
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You had better check the alternator output
It may have died due to a lack of available voltage (like if the alternator is no good)
That would explain the clicking when you tried to re start it
Put a dvom on the battery and read the voltage (it should be in the 12 volt range)
Then start the truck
The voltage should jump up to 13.8 to 14.2 volts or so if the alternator is good
Good luck
 
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Old Jun 15, 2022 | 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
You had better check the alternator output
It may have died due to a lack of available voltage (like if the alternator is no good)
That would explain the clicking when you tried to re start it
Put a dvom on the battery and read the voltage (it should be in the 12 volt range)
Then start the truck
The voltage should jump up to 13.8 to 14.2 volts or so if the alternator is good
Good luck
I really hope its just the battery. I don't mind changing the alternator but I was thinking about doing the 2G to 3G upgrade and I need more time to research what that's going to take.

 
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Old Jun 15, 2022 | 12:32 PM
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If your van has sat for a good while then I would recommend checking the fuel pressure. connect the FPG and monster it so you can see what is going on when the engine stops running. Check with all the local parts stores around your area to see if one has a fuel pressure tester gauge as a loaner tool. if not HF sells one for around $50.
You have a fuel pump in your tank or tanks, and a high pressure fuel pump on the frame rail under the drivers seat. If you have duel tanks then you also have a fuel tank selector switch on the frame rail near the HPFP. There is also a fuel filter right in the same area.

Have you figured out which engine you have? I believe the 460 has a low oil pressure cut out switch which will kill the engine if the oil pressure drops too low.

I would check the fuel pressure next though.. Below is what the fuel sending unit looked like in my 85 E150 that had sat a few years.


Next I would hook up a vacuum gauge and monitor the readings. A vacuum gauge was the old mechanics scan tool of choice before electronics and still works today to tell you many things the OBD1 cant. It can also tell you if a vacuum valve is opening right before the engine shuts off if you monitor the gauge. You could have a vacuum activated valve or switch that is opening or closing as the engine warms up and the hose is leaking or disconnected.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2022 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by annaleigh
If your van has sat for a good while then I would recommend checking the fuel pressure. connect the FPG and monster it so you can see what is going on when the engine stops running. Check with all the local parts stores around your area to see if one has a fuel pressure tester gauge as a loaner tool. if not HF sells one for around $50.
You have a fuel pump in your tank or tanks, and a high pressure fuel pump on the frame rail under the drivers seat. If you have duel tanks then you also have a fuel tank selector switch on the frame rail near the HPFP. There is also a fuel filter right in the same area.

Have you figured out which engine you have? I believe the 460 has a low oil pressure cut out switch which will kill the engine if the oil pressure drops too low.

I would check the fuel pressure next though.. Below is what the fuel sending unit looked like in my 85 E150 that had sat a few years.


Next I would hook up a vacuum gauge and monitor the readings. A vacuum gauge was the old mechanics scan tool of choice before electronics and still works today to tell you many things the OBD1 cant. It can also tell you if a vacuum valve is opening right before the engine shuts off if you monitor the gauge. You could have a vacuum activated valve or switch that is opening or closing as the engine warms up and the hose is leaking or disconnected.

I have the 5.8L v8. Autozone just called and said the battery is fine.

My starter motor relay might have gone bad. I think I'll start there.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2022 | 04:44 PM
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The 2G is a fire trap, plug in charging harness is known to corrode and short out, it has to be replaced every time the alternator is, add on they are 40 amp, I'm about to get ready to swap mine to 3G, will toss that plug in crap and 4 gauge the charging wire straight to battery, I've done this to a 73 in the past, a lot safer. Check your grounds, any rust and you will have a body ground issue.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2022 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by maples01
The 2G is a fire trap, plug in charging harness is known to corrode and short out, it has to be replaced every time the alternator is, add on they are 40 amp, I'm about to get ready to swap mine to 3G, will toss that plug in crap and 4 gauge the charging wire straight to battery, I've done this to a 73 in the past, a lot safer. Check your grounds, any rust and you will have a body ground issue.
I picked up new cable ends for the positive and negative cables and that seems to have done the trick. I got the fuel pressure test kit as well so I'm going to check that tomorrow.

 
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Old Jun 16, 2022 | 03:57 AM
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My positive end cracked, all I had laying around was one of those red painted lead ends, not as thick as what was on it, the stores sell the thin steel strap, not sure what I want to replace it with when I upgrade the alt, I may replace the entire cable, my positive one is too long, folded up, the starter relay is beside my battery, have to pull my battery to get at it, is that what you did, cable and end?
 
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