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Well, as any good dinosaur would, I like using the phone whenever possible and talking to a fellow neanderthal. But that there's a cool link moose! Thanks for posting it up.
I haven't tried to use it, but it looks kind'a handy in a pinch. Just what I needed too. Another great way to spend an hour or three on the computer at night!
Just wanted to report back, I got the ES3247RT installed today and everything seems to work fine. So that could be an option for anyone looking for an adjustable drag link, I'm pretty sure it's sufficiently strong. I used the tables moose linked to come up with the various options I tried, but unfortunately the information on the studs is somewhat lacking on many parts.
Great! Thanks for the follow-up.
But refresh my memory please. Is that just the one segment that needs the sleeve to make it adjustable, which you then used with the other two parts listed in an earlier post (#29 I think?) so it all works together?
Great! Thanks for the follow-up.
But refresh my memory please. Is that just the one segment that needs the sleeve to make it adjustable, which you then used with the other two parts listed in an earlier post (#29 I think?) so it all works together?
Paul
Yes, in total it's an ES2012S sleeve, an ES3247RT right hand thread tie rod end, and an ES444L left hand thread tie rod end. Cost about $125.
Great Info! Did you have to use a washer under the nut when using the ES3247RT? When assembled was the overall length about 13.5 inches stud center to center?
Thanks
Great Info! Did you have to use a washer under the nut when using the ES3247RT? When assembled was the overall length about 13.5 inches stud center to center?
Thanks
I have a lock washer under both tie rod ends just because of how high up the hole is drilled in the studs. According to my math those parts should have a minimum length of 13.5" but if you needed a little shorter I suppose you could hacksaw off a little of one tie rod end.
Perfect. I will follow your lead with part numbers when I replace mine.. My local parts houses all wanted 250.00 or so for the original oem style drag link, plus non stock. Fellow members will be able to save money when they choose to go your route. Plus a reamer is not needed.
Thanks to all who posted.
Finally remembered to take a picture! Just for the record I was piecing together parts to hit the approx. 15.5" length I needed, so it's entirely possible there's a different combination of parts that'll get you to a shorter length and save some cash. Also I wasn't sure how beefy a drag link needed to be, so I was focusing on the 1" diameter tie rod ends figuring it's better to have and not need than need and not have. With a smaller diameter tie rod end, there may be other perfectly suitable combinations as well. It could be worth looking into because the ES444L itself is kind of expensive, seems like it might be discontinued.
I agree that beefier is better. Especially for a draglink!
It really does not have much leverage of it's own, so the power steering is really putting the force into that short-ish steering arm. Seems to me that any larger than stock tire would put create a lot of force that the gearbox had to overcome. All with the draglink in the middle!
But another question comes to mind now that I see it. How much thread engagement do you have inside the sleeve? Looks like quite a bit outside of it, so was wondering.
I agree that beefier is better. Especially for a draglink!
It really does not have much leverage of it's own, so the power steering is really putting the force into that short-ish steering arm. Seems to me that any larger than stock tire would put create a lot of force that the gearbox had to overcome. All with the draglink in the middle!
But another question comes to mind now that I see it. How much thread engagement do you have inside the sleeve? Looks like quite a bit outside of it, so was wondering.
Paul
About 1.7" on both sides. I used the old 1.5 times the diameter rule of thumb for thread engagement.
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