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He is kinda right, besides the woman comment…. Plenty of them know about oil changes just fine.
Its like tow/haul mode I doubt it knows you are towing a bass boat or 16k toy hauler. Or idling time in the middle of a dusty area or middle of a concrete jungle. So you do need a little input, the IOLM doesn’t know everything.
Similar input with the 6.2 as I dont think it counts idle time.
Oil life monitors are fine. They’re just another tool. Never heard of one “failing” and as far as “plenty of women” know how to change oil, I might know 1 out of a thousand. Sure they’re out there, but is it “plenty”? Lol
the thing with oil life monitors for me is the ease. I can rack up 180 miles a day but I also idle a good bit. This truck serves as my cafe also. So instead of just going by idle hours I’m assuming it goes by both.
some trucks can rack up a crap load of run time per 5000 miles, especially if only driven in the city. Going by mileage alone is dumb as @@@@. Know your situation.
See... There's the rub... Old school thinking... Oil today is NOT the same as oil 40 years ago... Engines are not the same... Thus, Longer oil & filter times have become a norm... WITHOUT, the old school problems associated with inferior oil and dirty engines and filters that can be plugged up easer of the old school era... Thus I am trying to find the real world experience of people on here with oil changes...
I do think out of the box sometimes... But, because of the "recent\' advances in oils % engine technology for cleaner engines, it actually seems to be a pertinent question. NO...???
I remember 20 years ago every manufacturer saying X,XXX oil change regardless of oil type, and the oil manufacturer saying XX,XXX... Synthetic oils were regarded just like regular oils... and... guess what... they are NOT, like regular oils...
You certainly get credit for being out of the box....
So in one post you think the oil lasts longer than the filter. Then in this post you correctly acknowledge oil, filters and engines all improving. So the oil is better, the filter is better and the engine tolerances are tighter , there is less manufacturing debris than ever before. Looking for the logic in YOUR statements that suggest this warrants replacing the filter ahead of the oil when you have already accumulated 7500 miles on the factory fill. .. Maybe just change the oil and filter and give up on the notion that this non-sense plan has any merit.
I always say do what YOU feel comfortable doing, I did my first change at 2,100 miles and switched to T-6 5W-40 right away, have done the same in almost all my diesels. I have in the past run UOA's on my trucks but haven't done one yet on the 21', I did my second oil change at 5,500 miles, yup...3,400 miles later. I am approaching 9,300 miles now and will more than likely change it at 10,000 and do what I have always done, 5k oil changes and 10k fuel filter changes, Maintenance is cheap insurance if you ask me...I think its better to do the first few changes early to hopefully shake out any bad stuff.
You know what they say about opinions......
Do what you feel is right and pay attention to what Ford recommends.
Per the manual, an oil with the “API certified for gasoline engines” symbol meets the needs (noted by yellow marks).
However, the manual also states the Specification as Ford WSS-M2C961-A1. (noted by orange marks)
Mobil1 Advanced Full Synthetic 5W-30 has the API symbol, but is not listed as meeting the specific Ford spec.
Mobil1 Truck & SUV 5W-30 full synthetic IS listed as meeting the Ford WSS-M2C961-A1 spec.
I’ve not used Mobil1 Truck & SUV before so don’t know how widely it’s available on the shelf in my town. Having seen a couple posts about 7.3 engine failure, it’s probably a smart move to use oil that meets the specific Ford spec just to be safe and CYA. I need to do some more homework on oils that meet that spec.
I have been running Mobil 1 5-30 Truck and Suv in my 7.3 since 2500 miles, I am at 20k now. Initially I was finding it at Wal Mart but recently had to go to O'Reilly's where it was on sale for $32/5qt. I was wanting to try the new Rotella Gas Truck formula but it is impossible to find on local shelves. I am also running this same oil, different viscosity, in my wife's new 3.6L Jeep.
Oil life monitors are fine. They’re just another tool. Never heard of one “failing” and as far as “plenty of women” know how to change oil, I might know 1 out of a thousand. Sure they’re out there, but is it “plenty”? Lol
the thing with oil life monitors for me is the ease. I can rack up 180 miles a day but I also idle a good bit. This truck serves as my cafe also. So instead of just going by idle hours I’m assuming it goes by both.
some trucks can rack up a crap load of run time per 5000 miles, especially if only driven in the city. Going by mileage alone is dumb as @@@@. Know your situation.
Supposedly, there is an oil life monitor program that COMPUTES how much life the oil has left. IIRC, MB has a sensor that measures resistance or something to determine it.
The old guard lives longer and is no longer willing to adapt to change and holds back society from improving. "I've been doing this for 30 years. No problems." mentality.
You certainly get credit for being out of the box....
So in one post you think the oil lasts longer than the filter. Then in this post you correctly acknowledge oil, filters and engines all improving. So the oil is better, the filter is better and the engine tolerances are tighter , there is less manufacturing debris than ever before. Looking for the logic in YOUR statements that suggest this warrants replacing the filter ahead of the oil when you have already accumulated 7500 miles on the factory fill. .. Maybe just change the oil and filter and give up on the notion that this non-sense plan has any merit.
This EXTRA only changing the filter early idea, is just for this first oil change, at 25% oil-life left monitor... Then when it says oil-life left is zero% I would change the filter again, and the oil too... Doesn't seem that radical to me, It's an EXTRA step to make sure the filter isn't plugged from the extra brake-in crud that's in there but won't be in the later oil change intervals, thus I would change both at the same time then... It's basically, the same idea most of you have, of changing the oil and filter in the first 1,000 miles... Even thou the oil-life monitor says that the oil and the filter is good for another 95% of life... I'm just saying there in no reason to change the oil too, it's the filter that is/could be a problem if it plugs up totally, and bypasses the oil without filtering... JMO
This EXTRA only changing the filter early idea, is just for this first oil change, at 25% oil-life left monitor... Then when it says oil-life left is zero% I would change the filter again, and the oil too... Doesn't seem that radical to me, It's an EXTRA step to make sure the filter isn't plugged from the extra brake-in crud that's in there but won't be in the later oil change intervals, thus I would change both at the same time then... It's basically, the same idea most of you have, of changing the oil and filter in the first 1,000 miles... Even thou the oil-life monitor says that the oil and the filter is good for another 95% of life... I'm just saying there in no reason to change the oil too, it's the filter that is/could be a problem if it plugs up totally, and bypasses the oil without filtering...
So why don't you just do it? It won't hurt anything. While you are at it, cut open the filter and see how much crud is in the filter. You will then have your answer regarding whether it makes a difference or not. Please report back with the results.
The old guard lives longer and is no longer willing to adapt to change and holds back society from improving. "I've been doing this for 30 years. No problems." mentality.
Wait, I didn't realize this truck enthusiasts forum was actually about social improvement...
Anyway, if you were older, you would realize that your opinion has been shared by generations of young folks, including those who are currently old folks.
If you were wiser, you might understand why the old folks think like they do. Unfortunately that comes only with experience, which is generally related to age.
This EXTRA only changing the filter early idea, is just for this first oil change, at 25% oil-life left monitor... Then when it says oil-life left is zero% I would change the filter again, and the oil too... Doesn't seem that radical to me, It's an EXTRA step to make sure the filter isn't plugged from the extra brake-in crud that's in there but won't be in the later oil change intervals, thus I would change both at the same time then... It's basically, the same idea most of you have, of changing the oil and filter in the first 1,000 miles... Even thou the oil-life monitor says that the oil and the filter is good for another 95% of life... I'm just saying there in no reason to change the oil too, it's the filter that is/could be a problem if it plugs up totally, and bypasses the oil without filtering... JMO
The ONLY way you'll actually know if the oil is any good, is to take a sample and send it off to the lab...
But, to do a sample properly, you have to collect it mid-pour out of the pan.. in which case, you've drained roughly half the pan's capacity.. may as well do an oil and filter swap while your hands are dirty.
Then when you get the results back, you'll know if you wasted your money changing it early, or prevented a fiasco because you got dirty oil out. The onboard OLM is only a timer, it doesn't know if you started your engine at -30*c not plugged in, to drive it 5 miles before shutting it off for there day, or if you put a 20,000 lb trailer on it and tugged it through Death Valley in August.
Don't go by that. Go off your usage, and mileage. Yes newer oils are better than from 30 years ago. They have more additives, keep things cleaner inside your engine, and better lubricated. Part of the additives being better, is they hold more particles in suspension, and some of them are smaller than the microns in your filter.
I know I'll be doing my first oil change between 1500-2000 miles, and the second about 4000 later, then 7500 after.
Probably overkill, but it's my truck, and that's what I've had success with in the past with these 6.7's
Side note, I grew up in PG, still have lots of family and friends there, one in fact works at the dealership you must have gotten it from. Good luck with the new rig
So I got to thinking today about the FIRST oil change coming up... 25% left on the oil life according to the info from the oil-life indicator, but since it's the first oil change and probably the dirtiest the oil would be because of the braking-in period... I was thinking should I just change the filter right now at 12,000Km and change the filter & oil at the 15,000Km the end of the expected oil life time...??? or do nothing until the oil-life indicator says change the oil...?
I’m still old school 3-5000 max especially as expensive as stuff is nowadays its just cheap insurance.
A bit late but id like to share that these extended oil change intervals on the OHC gasoline engines are not in the engines best interest for a long life. Now at that same point of a long life, im sure the majority will be into a new truck before the engine is high mileage enough to show the wear from the manufacturers extended oil changes. If you want to follow your oil life monitor, change the oil at 3,000mi, or anything in between its a personal choice.
Once Ford went to the 5,000MI/6 month oil change interval with the OHC 4.0L, 4.6L, 5.4L, and 6.8L engines the internal conditions took a hit. I keep engines for life and stick to the severe duty maintenance schedule. I have many of engine still in my possession (mostly 6.8L 3V) that I have personally owned and maintained since new. I pull the engines from the trucks when the truck is retired from service. All the engines in my possession have over 350k original miles and are free from internal deposits/crud as well as have near factory compression in all cylinders. I re-gasket these engines while checking them internally and put them back together in case I need one for a truck im still using.
I on the other hand buy a few used trucks per year that have been totaled by insurance from accidents. I get the carfax/autocheck reports with these trucks and just about every one has a full service history documented. The engines in these trucks are 5.4L, 6.8L, and 6.2L with around 100-250k miles on them. The service record all show oil change intervals between 7,500MI and 12,000MI. When I pull the engines out and open them up the internals have a thick coat of varnish and light sludge, the piston walls have considerable scoring, the PCV systems are usually gunked up, and when I check compression I get readings that jump around between cylinders. Yes these engines run and perform but they are not the healthy engines they could have been if the oil was changed at a more reasonable interval.