Batteries keep dying HELP
#1
Batteries keep dying HELP
So my batteries died on me a few months ago. I replaced both batteries because I assumed they were bad because they were very old. After a couple months my battery light came back on and my batteries ended up dying. I then replaced the alternator with a TYC 110 amp alternator. I have a single alternator system. I had the batteries recharged and after a couple months again my battery light came on. It was strange, when I accelerated past 2000 RPM the battery light would go away. Almost as if the alternator would produce enough power to charge the system when I was accelerating past 2000 RPM. As soon as the RPM drop below 2000 the battery light would come back on. Then a couple days went by and the batteries died again. AAA came and jump the batteries and said my batteries werent getting any juice from the alt at idle. Do you think I received a faulty alternator or is there something else that could be causing this like bad cables.
There is no corrosion on the battery connectors and no visible worn wires. The truck only has 80,000 miles. obviously everything is very old. Any info helps thanks!
There is no corrosion on the battery connectors and no visible worn wires. The truck only has 80,000 miles. obviously everything is very old. Any info helps thanks!
#2
The same answer on the org.
Bad alternator, I wouldn't have purchased that brand in the first place.
If you don't know the running voltage (you never mentioned it), you need some type of monitoring. That can be something as simple as a plug-in voltmeter into the power port, but owning a 6.0, you really should have something like a ScanGuage II and/or Forscap apt for your cell phone with an OBD2 port adapter.
This one
or this one
I have both, but I use the second if driving as it is short and less intrusive in the leg area.
I video I do long ago which might help you.
Bad alternator, I wouldn't have purchased that brand in the first place.
If you don't know the running voltage (you never mentioned it), you need some type of monitoring. That can be something as simple as a plug-in voltmeter into the power port, but owning a 6.0, you really should have something like a ScanGuage II and/or Forscap apt for your cell phone with an OBD2 port adapter.
This one
or this one
I have both, but I use the second if driving as it is short and less intrusive in the leg area.
I video I do long ago which might help you.
#3
#4
To keep things equal between FTE and org, he's going to ask what economical alternator to get.
That's a problem today. Most remanufactured alternators are not made up to OE standards. Even Motorcraft alternators with the "service" designation are not entirely up to the OE standards.
I get buying from RockAuto; I buy a lot there. Recently RA has brought the Bosch 140a into the mix of listed alternators, which I've bought and recommended in the past. Many have had good luck with them, but there are some failures out there, but certainly, it does not appear to be as much as parts store rebuilds. And way more economical than going to a specialty high amp alternator which can get into the $350-500 range. Even with the high amp unit I have, an L-N 230a (which you don't need), some copycats are sold next to them that I would not touch.
The Bosch is now up to $175; when I purchased it, it was $145. They are higher amp but do not need any extra alternator wiring; they are the same size as the optional alternator you could opt for when buying the later model trucks new.
That's a problem today. Most remanufactured alternators are not made up to OE standards. Even Motorcraft alternators with the "service" designation are not entirely up to the OE standards.
I get buying from RockAuto; I buy a lot there. Recently RA has brought the Bosch 140a into the mix of listed alternators, which I've bought and recommended in the past. Many have had good luck with them, but there are some failures out there, but certainly, it does not appear to be as much as parts store rebuilds. And way more economical than going to a specialty high amp alternator which can get into the $350-500 range. Even with the high amp unit I have, an L-N 230a (which you don't need), some copycats are sold next to them that I would not touch.
The Bosch is now up to $175; when I purchased it, it was $145. They are higher amp but do not need any extra alternator wiring; they are the same size as the optional alternator you could opt for when buying the later model trucks new.
#5
In the 17 years that I have had a 6.0 - some of the most heated discussions were on alternators, batteries, and of course oil, lol.
My assessment, all these years later, is that there is still no clear cut answer as to which alternator to buy. Seems like all of them have had their issues.
My assessment, all these years later, is that there is still no clear cut answer as to which alternator to buy. Seems like all of them have had their issues.
#6
To keep things equal between FTE and org, he's going to ask what economical alternator to get.
That's a problem today. Most remanufactured alternators are not made up to OE standards. Even Motorcraft alternators with the "service" designation are not entirely up to the OE standards.
I get buying from RockAuto; I buy a lot there. Recently RA has brought the Bosch 140a into the mix of listed alternators, which I've bought and recommended in the past. Many have had good luck with them, but there are some failures out there, but certainly, it does not appear to be as much as parts store rebuilds. And way more economical than going to a specialty high amp alternator which can get into the $350-500 range. Even with the high amp unit I have, an L-N 230a (which you don't need), some copycats are sold next to them that I would not touch.
The Bosch is now up to $175; when I purchased it, it was $145. They are higher amp but do not need any extra alternator wiring; they are the same size as the optional alternator you could opt for when buying the later model trucks new.
That's a problem today. Most remanufactured alternators are not made up to OE standards. Even Motorcraft alternators with the "service" designation are not entirely up to the OE standards.
I get buying from RockAuto; I buy a lot there. Recently RA has brought the Bosch 140a into the mix of listed alternators, which I've bought and recommended in the past. Many have had good luck with them, but there are some failures out there, but certainly, it does not appear to be as much as parts store rebuilds. And way more economical than going to a specialty high amp alternator which can get into the $350-500 range. Even with the high amp unit I have, an L-N 230a (which you don't need), some copycats are sold next to them that I would not touch.
The Bosch is now up to $175; when I purchased it, it was $145. They are higher amp but do not need any extra alternator wiring; they are the same size as the optional alternator you could opt for when buying the later model trucks new.
#7
Trending Topics
#9
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Semper-Ford
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
8
10-20-2011 12:07 AM