Some issues after lift
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 37
Likes: 7
Some issues after lift
Hey all,
I've got a 95 single cab long bed f250 with 85,000 mi.
It sat for so long in the desert that the bushings were all rotted, so I did a 4 inch lift and replaced all the ttb, body, steering bushings at the same time.
Now I have some driveline vibrations going 60+ (and speedo gauge wobble, cruise control surge)
Drove just fine before the lift, minus some suspension noise.
I have new u joints coming, and thinking of getting rid of the shimmed block and going for full leafs.
Just eyeballing it looks like the rear pinion is angled TOO much and I think flat blocks/no angle would be better. I will measure soon to find out.
Any other directions I should head?
Thanks..
Also I wanted to note. That with a bed full of snow weighted down, the vibration is completely gone, speedo doesn't bounce, and cruise works fine.
I've got a 95 single cab long bed f250 with 85,000 mi.
It sat for so long in the desert that the bushings were all rotted, so I did a 4 inch lift and replaced all the ttb, body, steering bushings at the same time.
Now I have some driveline vibrations going 60+ (and speedo gauge wobble, cruise control surge)
Drove just fine before the lift, minus some suspension noise.
I have new u joints coming, and thinking of getting rid of the shimmed block and going for full leafs.
Just eyeballing it looks like the rear pinion is angled TOO much and I think flat blocks/no angle would be better. I will measure soon to find out.
Any other directions I should head?
Thanks..
Also I wanted to note. That with a bed full of snow weighted down, the vibration is completely gone, speedo doesn't bounce, and cruise works fine.
Last edited by Iasco; Mar 6, 2022 at 09:32 AM.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
2 piece driveshaft or 1?
Sounds like a driveshaft issue alright,. With a 1 piece if the angles at each end are the same they cancel one another so it can be worse with only 1 end shimmed, with a 2 piece it's often necessary to shim down the center carrier bearing to bring the two halfs into alignment.
Sounds like a driveshaft issue alright,. With a 1 piece if the angles at each end are the same they cancel one another so it can be worse with only 1 end shimmed, with a 2 piece it's often necessary to shim down the center carrier bearing to bring the two halfs into alignment.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 37
Likes: 7
2 piece driveshaft or 1?
Sounds like a driveshaft issue alright,. With a 1 piece if the angles at each end are the same they cancel one another so it can be worse with only 1 end shimmed, with a 2 piece it's often necessary to shim down the center carrier bearing to bring the two halfs into alignment.
Sounds like a driveshaft issue alright,. With a 1 piece if the angles at each end are the same they cancel one another so it can be worse with only 1 end shimmed, with a 2 piece it's often necessary to shim down the center carrier bearing to bring the two halfs into alignment.
That's what I'm leaning towards for sure.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 554
Likes: 186
Measure your driveline angles before you do anything! You didn't say (or I didn't see where you did) how you lifted the rear of the truck? If you just replaced the factory blocks with aftermarket ones, the factory ones are actually tapered and so with the aftermarket ones your pinion angle is most likely off as you think you're noticing.
I recall one truck I worked on had a shackle flip in the rear and that tilted the pinion up too much, so we actually ended up switching the tapered blocks positions left to right which reversed their taper and on pure blind luck put the pinion right where it has to go 😂
I recall one truck I worked on had a shackle flip in the rear and that tilted the pinion up too much, so we actually ended up switching the tapered blocks positions left to right which reversed their taper and on pure blind luck put the pinion right where it has to go 😂
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 12,838
Likes: 2,437
Measure your driveline angles before you do anything! You didn't say (or I didn't see where you did) how you lifted the rear of the truck? If you just replaced the factory blocks with aftermarket ones, the factory ones are actually tapered and so with the aftermarket ones your pinion angle is most likely off as you think you're noticing.
Seems to be a driveshaft angle problem. I don’t like lift blocks. When I lifted the Bronco back in the 80’s I spent the money for new leaf springs.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 554
Likes: 186
High-arch springs are kinda lousy too tho, too much aft movement of the axle throughout the travel. I prefer dropping the mounting points down on the frame, like GM did with their 4x4 trucks (vs the 2wd ones), but that tends to be quite a bit of work.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 37
Likes: 7
Yeah my point was to measure stuff before assuming anything. I wonder why ppl do this actually - they got a solid (and the only proper) plan in their head, but before they implement it they get to guessing and what not. Don't waste your time with what-ifs and get some solid numbers first, then come up with a solution based on your findings.
Dodge did some real sketchy-looking stuff with 6" blocks in their W350 trucks, seems to hold up better than the frames actually 🤣
High-arch springs are kinda lousy too tho, too much aft movement of the axle throughout the travel. I prefer dropping the mounting points down on the frame, like GM did with their 4x4 trucks (vs the 2wd ones), but that tends to be quite a bit of work.
Dodge did some real sketchy-looking stuff with 6" blocks in their W350 trucks, seems to hold up better than the frames actually 🤣
High-arch springs are kinda lousy too tho, too much aft movement of the axle throughout the travel. I prefer dropping the mounting points down on the frame, like GM did with their 4x4 trucks (vs the 2wd ones), but that tends to be quite a bit of work.
Just looking for some other potential ideas while I wait for the snow to melt
😁
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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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