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Hope it works after all that. Be careful not to overwork/overheat the starter when you are having trouble getting it going. The starter gets hot a lot quicker than it cools off.
I’m debating rebuilding the EBPV as well. Or should I just delete it?
Most of us delete them especially if you're not in a super cold climate. This will eliminate extra leak points as well. I went with a riff raff deleted pedestal and it has worked great.
Hope it works after all that. Be careful not to overwork/overheat the starter when you are having trouble getting it going. The starter gets hot a lot quicker than it cools off.
Originally Posted by jstihl
Most of us delete them especially if you're not in a super cold climate. This will eliminate extra leak points as well. I went with a riff raff deleted pedestal and it has worked great.
Well you’ve confirmed my thoughts on the subject. Would you recommend the Riff Raff turbo outlet as well?
Well you’ve confirmed my thoughts on the subject. Would you recommend the Riff Raff turbo outlet as well?
I can't remember if I got the riff Raff turbo outlet or a OEM but I'm positive anything that riff Raff sells will be of high quality and serve it's purpose.
I don't know how hard the h-pop lines are to get to in a van but if they are still originals with the STC fittings I would highly recommend changing those out with riff Raff or CNC fabrication h-pop lines with jic fittings. I think the riff Raff lines come with a rubber coating on them to prevent chafing so that is a plus. Just figured while you have the stuff out of your engine it might be easier to get to. When these lines blow at over 2,000 PSI it will make one helluva mess!! Then you will probably be stranded on the side of the road...
hey I’m catching up! The new guy learns fast I promise.....
Originally Posted by jstihl
I don't know how hard the h-pop lines are to get to in a van but if they are still originals with the STC fittings I would highly recommend changing those out with riff Raff or CNC fabrication h-pop lines with jic fittings. I think the riff Raff lines come with a rubber coating on them to prevent chafing so that is a plus. Just figured while you have the stuff out of your engine it might be easier to get to. When these lines blow at over 2,000 PSI it will make one helluva mess!! Then you will probably be stranded on the side of the road...
Actually, great idea. I’m going to look into that today..... now that I’m thinking about it, it has braided steel lines for the hpop. That’s not stock is it?
I just met one of my neighbors in my apartment complex, he’s a diesel mechanic. Talked to him about what’s going on and he agrees we’re working in the right direction. But he’s willing to help if I don’t make any progress on my own...
hey I’m catching up! The new guy learns fast I promise.....
Actually, great idea. I’m going to look into that today..... now that I’m thinking about it, it has braided steel lines for the hpop. That’s not stock is it?
I just met one of my neighbors in my apartment complex, he’s a diesel mechanic. Talked to him about what’s going on and he agrees we’re working in the right direction. But he’s willing to help if I don’t make any progress on my own...
I would say those are most likely not the stock h-pop lines so your probably ok. Just inspect them real good
HPOP side of lines is buried good in a van.
I have driven 50k miles with weeping drivers side head quick fitting.. (holds still 3200psi ICP)
STC = OEM quick connection
JIC = Common tapered hydraulic connection
HPOP side of lines is buried good in a van.
I have driven 50k miles with weeping drivers side head quick fitting.. (holds still 3200psi ICP)
STC = OEM quick connection
JIC = Common tapered hydraulic connection
Thanks for clarifying the hpop lines Finnish, it has been quite a while since I've had stock Hpop lines so couldn't remember . I think the international h-pop lines I ordered a long time ago came with wire loom on them but legalizechey might have had the wire loom deteriorated off of them by now if they even came from the factory with wire loom. Legalizechey if you do replace the h-pop lines ( would recommend the jic fittings) you will want to remove the check valves that rest inside the h-pop where the lines go in. These look like little springs and you can pull them out with a small pick. This will help equalize the oil pressure to the heads.
HPOP side of lines is buried good in a van.
I have driven 50k miles with weeping drivers side head quick fitting.. (holds still 3200psi ICP)
STC = OEM quick connection
JIC = Common tapered hydraulic connection
very good, I checked mine out today. They are OEM
Originally Posted by jstihl
Thanks for clarifying the hpop lines Finnish, it has been quite a while since I've had stock Hpop lines so couldn't remember . I think the international h-pop lines I ordered a long time ago came with wire loom on them but legalizechey might have had the wire loom deteriorated off of them by now if they even came from the factory with wire loom. Legalizechey if you do replace the h-pop lines ( would recommend the jic fittings) you will want to remove the check valves that rest inside the h-pop where the lines go in. These look like little springs and you can pull them out with a small pick. This will help equalize the oil pressure to the heads.
Will do if/when I change them out, mine don’t seem to be leaking as everything around them looks like old grime. They did have split loom on them. I took the one off for pictures