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I am curious to hear from those who know, if that is an acceptable drop in oil level or not. Off the cuff, it doesn't sound too bad for that period of time.
I agree, the truck should still start and run even with a slow leak like that. Try cranking it for a while and see if the res level has dropped. This would tell us if the lpop is supplying the res.
As you saw from my thread, I'm suspecting the same issue. I'll have to go back and read your symnptoms. My valley did have wet/damp areas when I worked on it the other week, but I assumed that it was fuel and/or from the leaking CCV o-rings. Assumed that I fixed it, but now I'm wandering if I actually did.
Good idea on the homemade dipstick. I might have to copy that in a few days.
Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
I am curious to hear from those who know, if that is an acceptable drop in oil level or not. Off the cuff, it doesn't sound too bad for that period of time.
Originally Posted by jstihl
I agree, the truck should still start and run even with a slow leak like that. Try cranking it for a while and see if the res level has dropped. This would tell us if the lpop is supplying the res.
thanks everyone, I will be able to get some time to work on the truck toward the end of the day today. I will post back results of,
1) cranking while on battery charger
(20amp or 60amp?) do not want to fry new battteries
2) reservoir level after cranking
3) verify fuel pressure KOEO @ lower test port on fuel bowl, post fuel filter.
I cranked her over right before lunch, not sure how long I’d need to before the air is pushed out. But the reservoir fills back up after cranking
it filled back up during cranking, and ended up between the 2nd and 3rd mark
Okay that's good that rules out the lpop. It takes quite a bit of cranking with Good batteries to get the air out. You can look up riffraff diesels write up on changing injectors and follow the instructions at the end as far as how much cranking and how much time you need to give it a rest. I think it's like cranking 20 to 30 seconds and then letting it rest for 5 minutes and then a couple more 20 to 30 second cranks with resting periods In between ( I would look it up but I'm write in the middle of changing out my injector cups ) . It would be a good idea to check the fuel pressure first to make sure you have adequate pressure. When you are cranking keep an eye on the ICP PSI on forscan and take note of how high the pressure gets.
I'd say that all is good up to that point but someone else might know better.
Originally Posted by jstihl
Okay that's good that rules out the lpop. It takes quite a bit of cranking with Good batteries to get the air out. You can look up riffraff diesels write up on changing injectors and follow the instructions at the end as far as how much cranking and how much time you need to give it a rest. I think it's like cranking 20 to 30 seconds and then letting it rest for 5 minutes and then a couple more 20 to 30 second cranks with resting periods In between ( I would look it up but I'm write in the middle of changing out my injector cups ) . It would be a good idea to check the fuel pressure first to make sure you have adequate pressure. When you are cranking keep an eye on the ICP PSI on forscan and take note of how high the pressure gets.
will do, I will also check fuel pressure by the end of the day. Leaning towards the check ball in my head but I guess other systems could be giving me issues. I noticed today, reading through the no start diagnostic By Ford, it says Fuel pressure “KOEO, 45psi min” doesn’t say where at though, heads, fuel bowl, pump etc...
also on the same sheet I noticed it asked about smoke coming from the tail pipe while cranking. I have no smoke coming out of the exhaust. Should I be concerned or worry about this later?
Fuel pressure should be pretty much the same no matter where you measure it with something of a drop post filter vs pre filter. Lack of smoke indicates that your injectors are not firing.
Yeah I saw that in the Ford manual I think it said 45 PSI at the head but as long as you have that coming out of your fuel bowl that would be good. I think the stock spring in the fuel pressure regulator is around 52 PSI but many bump it up to 60 PSI. I think you said you were reading around 30 PSI earlier in the thread so that might not be enough to feed all the injectors. I'm not sure why that one flowchart says 20 psi minimum but it must be wrong. I think walleye hit the nail on the head early in the thread with the low fuel pressure
Alright, I have 60psi at the lower port on the fuel bowl, post fuel filter.
I checked HPOP res before cranking again and it had lowered one notch on my dipstick tool. I filled the reservoir, and began cranking with a battery charger connected and watched icp slowly build from 50, 100, 200, 250, 300, 350, 400 and then finally 500 and into the low 600’s. Still no start but I am getting smoke from the tail pipe, and a couple times it started turning over faster as if it wanted to go.....
So after several attempts at cranking and waiting. 20-30 seconds of cranking to 3-5 minutes of waiting...(every 30 minutes or so)
icp pressure is weak, between 250psi and 350psi and every now and then it spikes and goes to 500psi or more (no more than 670psi max)
starter started smoking? (Rpm’s 160-200)
Smoke coming from tail pipe
A few times, when icp pressure was strong, the trucks revs picked up and sounded like it was getting ready to start. But never did. I’ve been playing with this since 4:30 this evening. Time to call it a night....
60 PSI is much better than the 30s, just curious did you use a different gauge this time? I agree with walleye, starting to sound like your IPR. Either that or you have a massive internal high pressure oil leak but I would say the IPR is more likely. The 64% you are seeing on the ipr. Is just what the computer is telling the IPR and does not mean that's what's actually going on. There is a way to clean out the IPR, but me personally I would just rather replace it with a motorcraft sensor and be done with it. The IPR sensor isn't cheap so if you want to try cleaning yours first to see what happens that might be an avenue to take that's not too expensive. When I buy a truck I replace both the IPR , ICP, and CPS , especially if I think they are the originals. Gives me peace of mind when going on a long trip
60 PSI is much better than the 30s, just curious did you use a different gauge this time? I agree with walleye, starting to sound like your IPR. Either that or you have a massive internal high pressure oil leak but I would say the IPR is more likely. The 64% you are seeing on the ipr. Is just what the computer is telling the IPR and does not mean that's what's actually going on. There is a way to clean out the IPR, but me personally I would just rather replace it with a motorcraft sensor and be done with it. The IPR sensor isn't cheap so if you want to try cleaning yours first to see what happens that might be an avenue to take that's not too expensive. When I buy a truck I replace both the IPR , ICP, and CPS , especially if I think they are the originals. Gives me peace of mind when going on a long trip
Same pressure gauge as before (snap on), I must’ve confused that reading with a boat I was working on (for work). I will start with cleaning and rebuilding the IPR. 15 dollars for the rebuild kit I believe. Then start throwing parts at it
) . It would be a good idea to check the fuel pressure first to make sure you have adequate pressure. When you are cranking keep an eye on the ICP PSI on forscan and take note of how high the pressure gets.
