You shouldn't have any rust issues there.

 

I’d really like to clean all that out but I don’t know where to start

 

Those do look like the original hpop lines. Just a heads up those aftermarket ICP sensors are known to cause a lot of problems.

 

Park at a slightly upward angle. Make sure the valley drain is clear. Use a large amount of Simple Green and rinse. Clean with a nylon brush or toothbrush where you can and rinse.

 

eeeek!! I didn’t know that was an aftermarket ICP, I figured it was the original old style....

I will give this a go

 

That ICP sensor is original OEM.

All new sensors has big nut on them(even Motorcraft etc.)

Factory sensor has completely round body and small nut underneath.

I still had a factory ICP sensor when i did my injectors at 503k miles.

 

Thanks for setting it straight I had honestly not ever seen one like that so thought it was aftermarket. OP you might want to hang on to that one

 

so if ICP tests ok and shows me correct pressure should I consider installing a new one? Just because of age?

Hahaha I’m going to have to now, $1900 bucks! Why so much!? that has to be a typo or something

 

Maybe that's pesos. If I remember correctly you are getting a ICP code but there is a lot of different things that can cause that. Maybe those ICP sensors are like gold, kind of like the original black CPS sensors that are really hard to find nowadays. If anything you can always unplug the ICP sensor to get it running after you clean the IPR and see if there's any change in idle plugged in versus unplugged. If Finnish's ICP went to 500,000 mi I would say those are probably better than the new ones. Maybe Finnish can shed some light on this.
It's seems to be reading pressure so should be ok. Have you checked for any oil in the ICP plug?

 

it did when I first looked at unplugging the ICP. (Months ago now)

I cleaned it out with electrical contact cleaner. And used some dielectric grease in the sockets when I plugged it back in. It has been that way since, and haven’t noticed oil coming back through the plug

 

I don't know that I'd clean that oily dirt off of there. I live in the rust belt and I see that as a non-corrosive, protective coating.

 

you’re definitely NOT wrong

 

I’m currently converting a 2000 e450 for a customer!

Have you had any loss of oil or coolant? I was having similar starting issues + tons of smoke om my personal truck. Turns out i was burning oil. When i read about it, it seemed injector o ring were the culprit but it turned out i also had cracked injector cups (just hairline cracks made me burn a gallon of oil every 5 miles ran like gsrbage too). Riffraff rents a cup removal/install tool. Sounds like a scary job but luckily wasn’t too bad.

Doubtful that would be your issue though if your oil level is full. Unless multiple o rings happened to go at the same time. I would also check your valve cover harness both sides. Sometimes people replace the valve cover gasket+injector wires and also snip the old plug and crimp a new plug to the wngine wire harness a partial connection (bad crimp) or in my case exposed wires rubbing (was worse when it rained) can be tricky to diagnose with a buz test as the results can vary based on climate! or even position of the wires. So I encourage you to try and trace those injector wires and remove any electrical tape to find hidden crimps!

Also couldn’t hurt to check your idm for signs of water intrusion or loose wires on the idm plugs

 

I was retaining all the coolant at proper levels before I broke down. Engine oil would lower but I also had a leak in the dipstick adapter, I’ve fixed that and haven’t had any oil leaks since. So I’m not too sure, but will be paying attention to these liquids when I begin retesting...

I’m pretty capable mechanically, injector cups are a big job but not impossible, I just worry about the space in the e350 style cab. Not a lot of room, no sure if the injector cups tool would fit or not.

I’ve ohmed out the valve cover harness and all were in the correct range, but can’t hurt to recheck while it’s still apart... also wouldn’t hurt to look at the harness’ condition while I have the space...

initially, in my first post, I was concerned about finding a short to ground indicates by the icp pinpoint test. (This is the last test before you either replace the icp or have found the issue & retest; according to ford)
This is step DC7 or DC8 in the icp pinpoint test. At this point I wasn’t getting the correct resistance between the the pcm and whichever circuit I was supposed to test.....


Next week I will go over the wiring again. Go through icp pinpoint again, reassemble with new starter and begin priming high pressure oil side and see if we can get her to pop over. Anything else I should consider while putting stuff together next week?

 

If you have access to the uvch's I would do the 52-cent mod on both harnesses. Check them over really good for any burnt pins or melted wiring
If you were not pulling the valve covers then just make sure everything ohms out correctly