I purchased 5x 3/8 barb 1/8 npt 90 degree fitting stainless steel 19$, fuel injection clamp set 84 pieces 17$, 10 micron ifjf fuel water separator 30$, 4 feet of 3/8 fuel line, 3/8 compression fitting T, 2x 3/8 compression fittings, 2 foot of 3/8 line. Total for everything about 100$ could be done about 20$ cheaper if ran all rubber. I cut the fuel bowl feed line at the top of hpop reservoir. Removed the fitting for the feed line and plugged the orifice in the fuel bowl with a extra oil rail plug, same threads used new o ring. I then removed the plugs to the fuel rails opposite of the ones used by factory lines and inserted 2 of the 90 degree 3/8 barbs. I already han my turbo off so had zero issue from the down pipe. I then mocked up a way to best run the metal line of off the line I cut. I used a 90degree bend so the T landed at the same height as the fuel rail. Installed the T with metal line running parallel to fuel rail until compressor housing the other side I ran metal line to the end of the fuel bowl I then connected the fittings in the head to the metal lines. I used 13-15 mm clamps for theses connections. This sums up the supply side. I then replaced the seals on the factory lines and pulled the stock fittings from the head and drilled them out. I reinstalled the factory lines exactly how they were. So now fuel is supplied by the 3/8 line I ran and returns through the OEM fuel lines and bowl. This gives me a regulated return utilizing the OEM fuel bowl as my regulator. I made sure my fuel bowl was clean so I didn't pump any solids back into the tank. I then found a good spot on frame, pre pump, to mount new filter I used a half inch spacer, a large nut, between filter and frame in order to not interfere with OEM lines.i disconnected the quick connect fitting to pump then cut that line about 6 inches before filter I then used rubber line to plumb in the filter. After everything was installed I opened the fuel bowl and cycled the key until I had fuel, closed the drain valve continued to cycle key and inspect for leaks. No leaks. After this I ran a quick check on fuel pressure at the bowl found same 70 psi so I know it's functioning. I tested when I first cut the line at the bowl and was seeing 90 plus psi. At this point the only thing I would have done different is not use compression fittings in order to reuse the 90 degree factory bends. I should have just bought a tubing bender. Oh well at some point I'm sure I will delete the fuel bowl and use an aftermarket regulator. If anyone chooses to replicate this be weary of where u let ur clamps land, make sure theyre in a location where they can be accessed if a leak does develop.

 

With that block of text and blurry pictures, I'm not sure about anything I just read or what you were trying to say.

No offense, but I think I'll stick with the RiffRaff FRx as being the cheapest option. That said I'm interested in seeing the feedback you get from other more knowledgable members here.

 

Ya..tough to visualize but im thinking, he's using the fuel bowl as a filter and backfeeding it thru the 2 1/8 ports so that he can use the fpr

 

You are correct. Fuel bowl filter is only preventing debris from going back into tank at this point. I installed a 10 micron filter pre pump.

 

You probably will want to move that 10 micron filter post pump, and just run a cheap inline 100 micron pre pump. That fine of filtration on the suction side can really strain the pump unnecessarily. Plus the factory Bosch unit also has an internal filter screen on the suction side to prevent anything large enough to damage it from getting in. I'm sure this is likely a ”first draft” and modifications and improvements will follow so my only other suggestion is every connection is a potential leak. Otherwise if it works how you need it to then run it.

 

I would like to second what udsuth78 wrote. Some of us have utilized a Racor PS120 canister and screen style screen filter. Others have used a small disposable inline filter, the brand and model eludes me at the moment...

The pumps are not pricey like newer trucks, but you don't want to have it fail on you prematurely and they never fail at a "good" time.

Thanks for posting your method and sharing it with us.

 

@99f350cclb , did you remove the riser inside the fuel bowl? There is a spring loaded valve in there that could get pushed shut now that fuel is flowing backwards through it. Interesting mod.

 

I had actually wondered if 10 micron pre pump would be to restrictive. A quick search prior didn't really yield anything to conclusive so I just went with it. Your assumption of first draft is 100 percent. I've just seen a few diy RRs on here and typically costs were around 300$ and utilize push lock I was definitely considering going that route. At some point in the near future I will end up deleting the fuel bowl completely as well as upgrading the pick up and rest of the lines. I have 250 200 injectors and just wanted to ensure they were getting enough fuel in the mean time​​​.

 

I did, I've drilled all the OEM fittings as well as banjo bolts. Yah I'm sure it will be updated sooner than later. I plan on deleting fuel bowl soon. Just wanted to see if I could make something functional using the OEM mechanical regulator.

 

Yah I have a couple good spares kicking around. I'm going to do dual OEM pumps when I get to dropping the tank and installing some larger plumbing. Appreciate the feedback from everyone.

 

I fully support innovative thinking.

 

You're off to a good start. I still use the same system that I installed on my truck in 2005.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ed-system.html

 

Nice that was a long read. I wish the pictures would have loaded. Is the orifice the means of regulating pressure? I just figured I'd see how cheap I could make a functioning RR. I mean if I eliminated the metal lines and just used a barbed 3/8 T the entire setup would cost like 60$. I figured someone would find it interesting.
Filter with base 30$
3/8 T <10$
2 1/8 npt to 3/8 Barbed fittings 90 degrees. I got 5 stainless steel for 18$
10 pack of fuel injection clamps
5 feet of 3/8 fuel line to play it safe

 

Yes, the truth is that's all the FRX really is plus a couple hoses and fittings. There are actually manufactured orifice fittings of just about every flavor of the rainbow. I used one in my first diy FRX setup. Then I ditched the fuel bowl all together and went with an aeromotive regulator. Then I made one out of a forged steel pipe plug to install in the top of my filter head to give the air and escape before it ever got sent to the rails. Then I said the hell with all of it and put the pump in the tank problem solved.

 

I'll draw a rough diagram in the morning and post it.