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It's primary. Jumped the gap between the two hard lines where the main fuel pump used to be with a piece of high pressure fuel injection hose, double clamped at both ends.
AWESOME!
..that gap can give a very nice spit to put a primary fuel filter as well, if anyone decided to do a regulated return and eliminate the fuel bowl...🤔(I got the fuel-lab regulator on the workbench now. Been thinking of dumping the bowl)
Yah I am aware of that. It just doesn't seem like it idles quite like it should especially for only 85k. If I don't run a tune with a raised idle I can hear the dash rattle after warm you think this is just from larger injectors maybe.
Im getting ready to get new batteries. It's been in the negatives lately and batteries decided to kick the bucket. Going to Walmart in a few to see if they'll honor warranty without receipt. After I get a minute to replace them I'll post video of cold start and then up at operating temperature. Thanks for your fast responses.
FTN is on the money about the cct. I've seen first hand how unreliable and inconsistent the test can be so don't sweat it to much. As for the rough idle, I've read a lot of idle shake threads here and usually ends up a bad connection or sensor is to blame. Good power and ground wiring and connections also more important than a lot of people realize. I have personally see loose battery connections effect idle quality. Seen failing belt drive components play hell on idle too.
AWESOME!
..that gap can give a very nice spit to put a primary fuel filter as well, if anyone decided to do a regulated return and eliminate the fuel bowl...🤔(I got the fuel-lab regulator on the workbench now. Been thinking of dumping the bowl)
I put my 10 micron fuel water separator about 8 inches into the steel line. I replaced up to the fuel pump inlet with 3/8 hose. Looked like the easiest spot to keep everything in the frame rail and still allow enough access to easily change the filter.
Still waiting on new batteries and the Walmart I dropped them off at for them to attempt to charge before replacing is about 2 hrs from my job so I probably won't get to pick them up till next weekend. Thanks again.
10 degrees out. Installed batteries started it let it run 5 mins. Let it sit for a half HR to allow to cool, then took video. When I get a chance to take it for a drive and get it up to operating temperature I'll post another.
Yah I am aware of that. It just doesn't seem like it idles quite like it should especially for only 85k. If I don't run a tune with a raised idle I can hear the dash rattle after warm you think this is just from larger injectors maybe.
Are you running the big injectors now? Who built the 250/200’s? Who’s tuning are you using?
While I commend your out of the box thinking and design, this system is a severe compromise in the reliability and longevity department. The rubber hose and compression fittings have a limited service life in this application and frankly, it’s all for naught. The stock system - even deadheaded - is adequate for well over 500RWHP with the addition of more pump (parallel stock pumps get the job done).
I think it’s the ‘cheapest way possible’ part that annoys my OCD. Granted, I primarily work on other people’s trucks and compromising reliability and integrity in any way is just not an option, but for my own junk - it’s never a good time to break down and leaks in the valley can compromise my expensive clutch.
Sorry to be Negative Nancy and I do not intend to be condescending - it’s clear you are very intelligent and competent and I would happily drink beers with you while heckling your work in a friendly and cheerful way.
Moving forward, I would consider retaining the stock filter assembly because it does a fantastic job of removing any air that is created in the fuel system. It does this by being at the TOP of the fuel system and under normal operation, most of the fuel is returning to the tank - and taking ‘air’ with it. The fuel that gets to the injectors must go DOWN through the filter media to get there - a struggle for air bubbles.
A restrictive filter pre-pump is more likely to cause cavitation and introduce air to the system.
The issue of ‘starving the injectors for fuel’ - specifically #8 - is internet lore with very little scientific justification. I’m an outlier here and most of what you read will be to the contrary, but I’ve built 500HP 7.3’s that run mostly stock fuel systems and my current truck does this with an ‘optional’ equivalent to the fuel rail crossover I can turn on/off. I can assure anyone who’s wondering it makes no difference in the way the engine runs or ‘sounds’.
In the biggest picture, investing in more HPO (STG2 HPOP, twins, Gen3) is going to have a greater impact than mucking with the stock fuel system.
For vegetable oil conversions, we feed diesel to the front of the heads from the stock filter and then feed VO to the rear of the heads where you see the tee/cap below. At the end of a drive, we flush diesel through the heads (similar to FRx or RR) to remove the VO from the engine before shutting it down.
These SS hard lines and ptfe-lined SS braided hoses with JIC ends are ‘bulletproof’ and on par or higher quality than OEM plumbing.
Clearly I need @Hyakkimaru to come do some engine detailing for me!!!
Are you running the big injectors now? Who built the 250/200’s? Who’s tuning are you using?
While I commend your out of the box thinking and design, this system is a severe compromise in the reliability and longevity department. The rubber hose and compression fittings have a limited service life in this application and frankly, it’s all for naught. The stock system - even deadheaded - is adequate for well over 500RWHP with the addition of more pump (parallel stock pumps get the job done).
I think it’s the ‘cheapest way possible’ part that annoys my OCD. Granted, I primarily work on other people’s trucks and compromising reliability and integrity in any way is just not an option, but for my own junk - it’s never a good time to break down and leaks in the valley can compromise my expensive clutch.
Sorry to be Negative Nancy and I do not intend to be condescending - it’s clear you are very intelligent and competent and I would happily drink beers with you while heckling your work in a friendly and cheerful way.
Moving forward, I would consider retaining the stock filter assembly because it does a fantastic job of removing any air that is created in the fuel system. It does this by being at the TOP of the fuel system and under normal operation, most of the fuel is returning to the tank - and taking ‘air’ with it. The fuel that gets to the injectors must go DOWN through the filter media to get there - a struggle for air bubbles.
A restrictive filter pre-pump is more likely to cause cavitation and introduce air to the system.
The issue of ‘starving the injectors for fuel’ - specifically #8 - is internet lore with very little scientific justification. I’m an outlier here and most of what you read will be to the contrary, but I’ve built 500HP 7.3’s that run mostly stock fuel systems and my current truck does this with an ‘optional’ equivalent to the fuel rail crossover I can turn on/off. I can assure anyone who’s wondering it makes no difference in the way the engine runs or ‘sounds’.
In the biggest picture, investing in more HPO (STG2 HPOP, twins, Gen3) is going to have a greater impact than mucking with the stock fuel system.
For vegetable oil conversions, we feed diesel to the front of the heads from the stock filter and then feed VO to the rear of the heads where you see the tee/cap below. At the end of a drive, we flush diesel through the heads (similar to FRx or RR) to remove the VO from the engine before shutting it down.
These SS hard lines and ptfe-lined SS braided hoses with JIC ends are ‘bulletproof’ and on par or higher quality than OEM plumbing.
Clearly I need @Hyakkimaru to come do some engine detailing for me!!!
No worries on the negatives, it was to be expected. I honestly just figured couldn't be any less reliable than the push lock fittings I wasn't sure about the compression fittings. I know that they are frowned upon. I just liked the fact all the bends were taken out of the soft line so went with it. I honestly just wanted to rule out fuel delivery for my elevated perdels I have been fighting and I already had the turbo off and kind of just said **** it while I was waiting for seals. Cylinder 8 fails cct more often than not and has a loped out idle when warm. Sounds like it's cammed def not though.
I am running the larger injectors, not sure who built them found them on fb for a grand with low miles so made an offer and then sent them to rosewood diesel to be gone over. Needless to say it's good I did he found couple issues and fixed them.
I'm actually already running çnc stage 2 pump. I'm using jelibuilt tunes. Also have a 4 inch exhaust. For now running a s300 turbine and billet wheel with a 1.00 ar exhaust housing. Turbo will be a future upgrade. I'm going to put John woods valve body in first.
I like those lines. Are they from your local hydraulic shop or were they a kit any details would be great. l I don't plan on keeping the lines the way they are long I already have steel braided sitting on my bench just waiting on few fittings and some extra time to mess with it. For now I plan on keeping stock filter, at least until I upgrade the lines and feel like cleaning up the valley. Nothing is in stone.
Also that's a negative on hutch mod I did go in and clean screens and replace pick up. This was early on in the build before I started with building it up for extra ponies.
Thanks for your feedback.
Yep sounds about 10 degrees. Coolant is defiantly on the low side though, better get her topped up so the heater works properly.
Yah i need to top it off. I just had drivers head off to redo the valves not long ago. Had a bent push rod wanted to make sure there was no other damage. Replaced the valves and lapped them and slapped it back together.
The compression fittings are not recommended for high vibration applications. The SS tubing makes this worse. You’d probably be better off using aluminum tubing and nylon ferrules as this is more forgiving. (Ferrules ‘dent’ the tubing for better retention) It’s also way easier to bend.
I went through a a couple of tuners and several revisions to get my hybrid injectors to idle smooth when warm and not smoke like a steam locomotive. Maybe reach out to Brian and let him know what you’re problem is and see if he can help.
The high perdels on #3 and #8 (and sometimes #5) are common and generally have no affect on how the engine runs. I think this happens because of how the CPS and firing order work. In my experience, you need a perdel of >10% to feel a ‘miss’. This will most often be an injector problem. A low compression issue almost always results in pressurizing the crank case resulting in ‘blow by’ that will blow the oil filler cap off upon removal. I don’t put much stock in a static compression test on these engines. More often than not, it’s not done correctly and produces false results.
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