Ok, here is the rough drawing as promised. Basically it's just an illustration of the design theory that I used when I built it in the first place. Couldn't find any of the original pictures that I took when I posted up that thread. Basically, take off the steel fuel feed lines between the fuel filter housing and the cylinder heads and set aside. You can leave the one that goes to the rear of the fuel rail if you want. The main goal is to feed the rear of the cylinder head and then let the excess out the front of the fuel rail. The engine sits at a slightly tail heavy stance, and air always rises to the surface, so I was providing an easy way for air to rise to the surface and then from there taken away from the injector fuel feed rail. Construct a fuel return from the two front fuel rail outlets, to a tee, and then to the housing that contains the orifice. Orifice needs to be quite small or the fuel pump won't be able to keep up with volume demands. Design theory is that air passes through a small orifice a lot easier than a liquid so the fuel pump is pushing against it all the time, but because it's so small the extra demands on fuel pump volume are insignificant and it can very easily keep up with the added load. The benefit of all this is that any air that gets introduce into the fuel system rises to the top, out of the system, is sent to the fuel return, and then back to the fuel tank.
Back when I was making this whole system I used an idle jet out of an old Solex carburator that was .15mm. That's POINT 15 millemeter. About six thousands inch. SMALL.

 

that's about the size opening on R.R. return system....
realizing that, ur system kwik works the same way as Clays👍

 

Clay modeled his FRX after this design. Before he put it into manufacture, he was decent enough to ask me if I minded if he copied this and my reply was: "Not at all, please go ahead with this".

 

Now with all this said, here is the best way to eliminate any sort of air intrusion into the fuel supply. Stop it at the source by putting the fuel pump at the end of the fuel pickup in the tank itself.
Fuel pump used is a Bosch 69430. Eliminate the check valve at the outlet side before installing. You don't need it.

 

I 2nd the in tank pump relocation, but will add that buying a new pump isn't required. Our factory Bosch pumps work just fine in the drink. I ran mine in there for nearly a year without issue, until it it started showing it's age and couldn't keep up with demand.

 

Thanks for posting your setup. I didn't know about the orifice with in the crossover systems prior to your post very informative. I like the idea of an in tank pump setup would eliminate air intrusion completely, other than through fuel slosh, since the entire system would be pressurized. How did you go about wiring the pump? I'm assuming still on the same circuit and tapped into fuel level ground?.
What's the flow rating on that pump enough to feed my 250 cc injectors?

 

@99f350cclb I was inspired by Kwikkordead to do an in-tank pump setup also. Bosch 044 used in my build.


EDIT: I found my build thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...completed.html

 

Nice. Honestly had I known I could just drop the original Bosh in there I probably already would have when I dropped the tank to clear screens and fix the pickup.i wonder if you
could fit two in there. 😂

 

The only way I figured it out was noticing the design similarities between the Bosch 044 and our factory pumps. Made since in my head anyway, if that pump can swim why not mine. What could go wrong right.
I don't see why dual pumps wouldn't fit. May be a little tight w/ the level sender but no reason that couldn't be replaced and relocated. I've been wanting to try one of those vertical reed type senders myself.

 

What I did was to extend the wiring harness from where it was on the frame to the fuel tank itself. Basically run power and ground.

 

Anyone have any insig4tht on this earlier post of mine https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...n-results.html . I pulled the head replaced both valves for the #8 cylinder lapped them and reinstalled everything. Im still failing #8 contribution 3 out of 5 times perdels vary between 0 and 4 or so. I'm beginning to wonder if it's got a broken ring or wiped cam lobe. I'm considering running another dynamic compression test since I never did after the repair. No more back firing from intake. This is the reason for the cheap RR I wanted to see if it would help at all. What would you do?

 

That in tank pump, is it a helper or ur primary now?

 

It’s common for #8 to give a false flag for CCT. Don’t sweat it unless the truck is shaking like a sumbitch.

 

It's primary. Jumped the gap between the two hard lines where the main fuel pump used to be with a piece of high pressure fuel injection hose, double clamped at both ends.

 

Yah I am aware of that. It just doesn't seem like it idles quite like it should especially for only 85k. If I don't run a tune with a raised idle I can hear the dash rattle after warm you think this is just from larger injectors maybe.