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There's no clutches on the tru tracs. They use helical gears that screw and unscrew to lock both wheels together when they spin at different speeds. Best diff out there in my opinion, for a general use vehicle.
Man that’s nice I’ve not read up much on them, Im sure that’ll get the list soon enough!
Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Who told you I am THAT scummy? Swindled someone to freight it for a C-note.
I beat my Truetrac in the 6.4 like it owed me money to a 12.9@105 run with stock snails on a modest tune. CCLB F350 4x4 Lariat, big weight. 4.9 receives first, then the dually...provided the dually engine not kaput. Injectors going in today.
Really excited to hear how them sticks work for ya!
And no one actually told me so much, I suppose I just assumed lol
I got mine from Summit or Jegs. Can't remember which. I don't have the luxury of a spare tire underneath, so you can see my cheapo diff cover at least.
I got mine from Summit or Jegs. Can't remember which. I don't have the luxury of a spare tire underneath, so you can see my cheapo diff cover at least.
Haha I think mine would be better on the wheel than whatever rubber is left on it!
Alright! John Wayne said it best, “every man is entitled to his own opinion”
So this post is directed to the people that are considering doing a job like this, not to the people that my disagree with my opinion.
When comparing the 2wd frame to the 4wd frame the differences will be shown in a photo below, there is an ~18” chunk of support on the 4wd frame that is not on the 2wd frame and that is the only substantial difference between the two frames, when doing a RSK like me.
So the argument that the 4wd frame is “stronger” than the 2wd, that argument is based on one ~18” piece of metal along the entire frame.
Now that being said, quesey (forum member) made a good point that if you are not boxing the front frame horns with a reverse shackle kit (RSK) and you are simply taking stock 4x4 parts and adding them to the 2wd frame, then yes swapping frames would be a better route as you will be doing a lot of custom fabrication including welding, cutting and customizing the frame and if you don’t get it correct you’ll have one of those truck rolling sideways down the road!
The other point is that you don’t have the stock leaf bracket holes to bolt your new brackets to but if you can’t use a tape measure to figure that out then the whole job is over your head already.
Now let’s do a little basic physics why don’t we!
You take a 2wd coil sprung truck, the entire front end weight comes down on one point of contact and that is the coil bucket. The control arms and the twin I beams do not have the same gravity-weight on them like the coil buckets. So all that weight comes down on a “weak” part of the frame, but I have not read one single write-up where someone took and beefed up their 2wd truck frame in that one single location because it was breaking, cracking or for whatever reason!
Now a 2wd leaf sprung truck (converted to 4wd) is setting on leaf springs with two main points of contact (each end of the leaf) and one of those points, with a RSK, is on a boxed frame horn that is substantially stronger than the stock 4wd frame horn only after you put 4 big bolts, a 5lb block of iron and the RSK bracket on to snug that front end up.
So to say that someone needs to swap frames because it’s missing one 18” piece of frame support that other Ford trucks didn’t have, is absolutely ridiculous.
Now if you’re building a rock crawler or a sled pull truck or a drag truck then okay sure you may think that would be necessary but for the everyday truck, no.
I would compare that to saying “I’m getting new stage 2 injectors so I have to put a new camshaft in just to make sure the engine can handle the extra hp”
But if you have the time and money to pull your engine, pull your cab, pull the bed, pull the rear axle sand swap it all over, then hey go for it!
So in a nut shell you’d have to be an absolute IDIOT to think you need to swap frames for this job!
It's super nice and then I think it was like $5 for some nice stainless button head bolts to hold it on.
The Magtechs are nice like Eric has, but I'm cheap.
And if you do some checking there are tests that show the flat back covers as detrimental in several ways...
I also have the oe style finned cover..will it do anything? Who knows..
Alright! John Wayne said it best, “every man is entitled to his own opinion”
So this post is directed to the people that are considering doing a job like this, not to the people that my disagree with my opinion.
When comparing the 2wd frame to the 4wd frame the differences will be shown in a photo below, there is an ~18” chunk of support on the 4wd frame that is not on the 2wd frame and that is the only substantial difference between the two frames, when doing a RSK like me.
So the argument that the 4wd frame is “stronger” than the 2wd, that argument is based on one ~18” piece of metal along the entire frame.
Now that being said, quesey (forum member) made a good point that if you are not boxing the front frame horns with a reverse shackle kit (RSK) and you are simply taking stock 4x4 parts and adding them to the 2wd frame, then yes swapping frames would be a better route as you will be doing a lot of custom fabrication including welding, cutting and customizing the frame and if you don’t get it correct you’ll have one of those truck rolling sideways down the road!
The other point is that you don’t have the stock leaf bracket holes to bolt your new brackets to but if you can’t use a tape measure to figure that out then the whole job is over your head already.
Now let’s do a little basic physics why don’t we!
You take a 2wd coil sprung truck, the entire front end weight comes down on one point of contact and that is the coil bucket. The control arms and the twin I beams do not have the same gravity-weight on them like the coil buckets. So all that weight comes down on a “weak” part of the frame, but I have not read one single write-up where someone took and beefed up their 2wd truck frame in that one single location because it was breaking, cracking or for whatever reason!
Now a 2wd leaf sprung truck (converted to 4wd) is setting on leaf springs with two main points of contact (each end of the leaf) and one of those points, with a RSK, is on a boxed frame horn that is substantially stronger than the stock 4wd frame horn only after you put 4 big bolts, a 5lb block of iron and the RSK bracket on to snug that front end up.
So to say that someone needs to swap frames because it’s missing one 18” piece of frame support that other Ford trucks didn’t have, is absolutely ridiculous.
Now if you’re building a rock crawler or a sled pull truck or a drag truck then okay sure you may think that would be necessary but for the everyday truck, no.
I would compare that to saying “I’m getting new stage 2 injectors so I have to put a new camshaft in just to make sure the engine can handle the extra hp”
But if you have the time and money to pull your engine, pull your cab, pull the bed, pull the rear axle sand swap it all over, then hey go for it! But for someone like me, swapping frames for this job is absolutely unnecessary.
4wd frame 2wd frame
I can not believe you would dare come on this forum with some common sense. Good work! We think these trucks need way more than they really do. I have pretty much gone the KISS method for a few years. It works well. These trucks were already good to begin with.
I had one on the 6.4 for right around 100k, the 10.5 did not die. Shrug.
No issues on this beat *** 10.25. If dies, I will admit it and you all can laugh at me.
LOL, just keep doing your thing. I have yet to see the world end due to the "poor engineering" we seem to think needs to be changed RIGHT NOW. Sure there are things that can be made better, but it isn't going to sideline you. Texas has many many 7.3 trucks running around that had an oilfield or construction life, all stock, no SD "upgrades" etc.....may not be the hotrods some of us build, but they are still fully functional and good running trucks. F*** the creampuff mentality. It is a TRUCK.
Swindled someone to freight it for a C-note.
