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Hoping to get a little advice from those with more experience in this area than I am.
I have a 2006 F150 crew 4x4 that I am trying to fix up for my son to take over in a couple of years. The motor is in good condition with only 135k showing. I have a new rig ordered for myself, but need the old truck to be reliable.
I have a growling and vibration from the rear diff, so I know she is shot. I have the ability to change out the axel assembly on my own which should save some money over a rebuild; quoted at $1800 dependant upon no further issues found once they got into it.
I have sourced a couple matching axle assemblies but my main question is, how many miles would be too many on a salvaged unit. I don't want to put one on and have to turn around in 5 to 10K miles to have it start showing issues. I fully understand that there are no guarantees with salvaged parts.
Thanks in advance for the advice.
Likely as not, just a wheel bearing. Simple fix, easier than swapping whole rears. Safer too.
I wish. I lifted the entire rear end, put the truck in gear and let the wheels spin freely.. I used a stethoscope and traced the growling sound down to the differential.
$1800 sounds a little high, but maybe in your area it is what it is.
If you don’t already have them, invest in a few tools, get on the ‘net……youtube has lots of instructiional videos…..then you and son take used rear end and rebuild before installing. Great time for Dad and son to learn together, and he will have greater respect for the truck and Dad in the end.
Then swap out the axle assemblies.
What engine in your truck? The 4.6 will have the 8.8. The 5.4 will have the 9.75. 8.8 rear diffs do have some history of pinion bearing failures. Is it a limited slip? The axle code on the door sticker will have a letter in front of it something like H19. If it reads just a number it's open. Often the ring gear and axles are fine. A gear install kit is about $200 and gets you a pinion seal, bearings, races, crush collar, shims, and a pinion nut. It's really not that awful of a job, and pinion depth will be fine 99% of the time if you reuse the OE pinion shim. There are a lot of good online tutorials on setting up an 8.8 online.
What engine in your truck? The 4.6 will have the 8.8. The 5.4 will have the 9.75. 8.8 rear diffs do have some history of pinion bearing failures. Is it a limited slip? The axle code on the door sticker will have a letter in front of it something like H19. If it reads just a number it's open. Often the ring gear and axles are fine. A gear install kit is about $200 and gets you a pinion seal, bearings, races, crush collar, shims, and a pinion nut. It's really not that awful of a job, and pinion depth will be fine 99% of the time if you reuse the OE pinion shim. There are a lot of good online tutorials on setting up an 8.8 online.
It's a 5.4 motor with the 9.75. It's a 3.75 LS gear ratio. I may have to jump on the rebuild, but have been nervous about the idea of having to place shims and set backlash, as I've never had to do it in the past and no one other that youtube for a tutor.
It's a 5.4 motor with the 9.75. It's a 3.75 LS gear ratio. I may have to jump on the rebuild, but have been nervous about the idea of having to place shims and set backlash, as I've never had to do it in the past and no one other that youtube for a tutor.
It's really not that bad other than the smell. If you reuse the gear set and the OE pinion shim, you shouldn't have to mess with pinion depth. Backlash and carrier bearing preload are very easy to set using the shims in the gear install kit. You may even get by just using the OE carrier shims. I will say that occasionally it's very difficult to crush the crush sleeve. I set the bearing preload by feel and have never had an issue. The minimum speciality tools you need will be a: flange puller, torque wrench, and a dial indicator with a base. Add an inch*lb dial torque wrench if you don't have the feel for bearing preload.
How many is too many for a used unit? I'd probably try to stay under 200k
I service an '05 SCREW with 5.4 where the 9.75 cratered around OP's mileage, but its not common..
My '07 with 2V 4.6 and 8.8 has 225k......now, I purchased at 185 so maybe the rear end was replaced from zero to 185k....but I can tell you the u-bolts look OEM (coarse thread metric while aftermarket tends to be fine thread fractional)
If OP is leary of R&P setup I'd try to source a good used rear end for reasonable $. Save your old one to rebuild if replacement craters (it's nicer "on the bench")
You need to match ratio of course but I wouldn't worry in the least about CrapLok or open diff....they both work like an open diff 'cause CrapLok limited grips are useless. Sorry, some guys will get hurt and argue...oh well
My father had an 06 5.4 crew that needed an axle rebuild due to noise and the shop that did it at the time said he was doing 3 and 4 trucks a week from all the makes, seems there was a run of bad bearings used in the '05-06 model years. My 06 E250 howled like a hound but I never bothered to fix it because it was a junker work truck, FWIW the noise never got any worse and it still ran fine when it was scrapped with 350k on the clock.
Ford sets up those Trak-Lok diffs really loose on purpose, they are capable of good traction adding performance with simple mods but that tends to produce undesirable on road behavour that in some situations can lead to loss of control.. which isn't desirable obviously from a corporate vehicle safery standpoint.
I'm 2 for 2 on successfully using salvaged read ends, and there is/was a 90 day warranty. Paid $350 ea. Oh wait, I'm 3 for 3 now that I think of it(years ago). I would go that route if you are willing to change it out. $1800 is very high. I have, and would not attempt to rebuild yourself. Relying on Youtube or any other social media is not a solid strategy IMHO.
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