Fuel Guage Fix?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 247
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Fuel Guage Fix?
Been going through threads but having a hard time trying to figure out the fuel gauge/fuel sender. My gauge stays at quarter tank for both tanks, and wavers ever so slightly up and down. Got the voltage for the rear sender and I got 2.25V. Couldn't get an amperage read, maybe I did it wrong. Previous owner put a new switch and selector in. Does anyone have a diagram if the wiring for it and how it works? In the event that it is both fuel sender units, is it possible to resolder them? Kinda hard justifying $100 per unit for a simple price of plastic and a resistor.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 46
Likes: 7
I fixed mine by buying new senders off eBay for less than $20 each. Even though they claim to be exact replacement they were not. But I removed the wafer with the resistor and snapped into my old unit and re soldered. I also replaced suction strainer at the same time. Worked like a new one. less than $80 and a Lil elbow grease for both tanks.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
Likes: 179
From: Western Mass
I'll second that you should check your senders. If you drop the tanks and play with the senders you can move it around and see if the gauge moves. It take a few seconds for it to react so you can move it, crawl back to the cab and look, then go back and move it the other way.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
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Dropped both fuel tanks and no changes to the fuel gauge. I removed the fuel selector and the front fuel sender and reinstalled. Both have filthy contacts which will need to be cleaned. The fuel gauge though then jumped to past full. So it went from 1/4 and is now stuck at 1/4 past full. When I turn the key it will go from 1/4 past full to 1/2 past full. When the switch is pressed no change. The selector is new from the previous owner and so is the switch. Im starting to think that its possibly not switching tanks as I havent driven the truck much, and have "switched" tanks only to have a full tank at the pump still....Im thinking Im having a bigger issue than just faulty fuel senders. When I push the switch with engine off the selector makes no noise, or any movement when Im holding it while switch is pushed. I had a second selector that I plugged in and also didnt detect a noise or movement. I pushed the plug in more snugly on the bezel. No change...thoughts? Im installing an electric fuel pump soon to get the engine running, Im just curious what tank it will be running on now.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 247
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 247
Likes: 29
So I discovered fuse #6 keeps blowing. Fuel selector switch and a/c are on that fuse. I also noticed that I was missing quite a few fuses. A/c has been removed from the truck, don't know what's missing just that it doesn't work. Hoping that's not interfering with the fuse. I do think it could be the switch, when I clicked it back and forth between tanks several times, the battery guage jumped around then the fuse blew. It has a new switch installed already..bad switch?
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Mountain Pass
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Mountain Pass
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
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So far what I've come up with my electric problem.
Fuel gauge does not work.
The fuel selector is not working. Have two, I doubt they're both broken unless they were both fried. Came from same truck, one was the old from PO.
When the fuel switch is moved from either tank the voltage gauge AND the tachometer move. The voltage gauge really jumps. The tach moves slightly up and down. The switch has power on the middle left pin. 6 pins total. I will order another switch as it does not seem OEM. They had to plastic weld to make it fit.
The switch is not blowing the fuse anymore, I think the rapid switching was the cause of it blowing. However, the fuse was already blown before. So I have an inconsistent fuse blow.
The fuel selector receives power . On the front tank it has power on the yellow red wires. On the rear tank it has power on yellow brown wires.
Maybe unrelated, but the glow plug relay started clicking for about 10-15s. When turned on. That may be from me turning it on and off and GP are all ready hot. Will find out tonight.
Fuel gauge does not work.
The fuel selector is not working. Have two, I doubt they're both broken unless they were both fried. Came from same truck, one was the old from PO.
When the fuel switch is moved from either tank the voltage gauge AND the tachometer move. The voltage gauge really jumps. The tach moves slightly up and down. The switch has power on the middle left pin. 6 pins total. I will order another switch as it does not seem OEM. They had to plastic weld to make it fit.
The switch is not blowing the fuse anymore, I think the rapid switching was the cause of it blowing. However, the fuse was already blown before. So I have an inconsistent fuse blow.
The fuel selector receives power . On the front tank it has power on the yellow red wires. On the rear tank it has power on yellow brown wires.
Maybe unrelated, but the glow plug relay started clicking for about 10-15s. When turned on. That may be from me turning it on and off and GP are all ready hot. Will find out tonight.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,519
Likes: 224
From: Nevada
Currently looking at fuel senders on amazon. For gas engines they are only $20. Is there a difference between a diesel and gas fuel sender? I thought they worked on the same ohm range of 33-140?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...k_ql_qh_dp_hza
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...k_ql_qh_dp_hza
It depends on year and Gas Or Diesel
85 - 86 Diesel Front tank, Full 8.5 - 10.5 Ohms. Rear 65 - 85 Ohms
87 - 96 Diesel Front tank, Full 155 -165 Ohms. Rear 5 - 15 Ohms.
You can check it out here
https://www.gastankdepot.com/ford-ga...ing-units.html
Charlie
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 247
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It depends on year and Gas Or Diesel
85 - 86 Diesel Front tank, Full 8.5 - 10.5 Ohms. Rear 65 - 85 Ohms
87 - 96 Diesel Front tank, Full 155 -165 Ohms. Rear 5 - 15 Ohms.
You can check it out here
https://www.gastankdepot.com/ford-ga...ing-units.html
Charlie
85 - 86 Diesel Front tank, Full 8.5 - 10.5 Ohms. Rear 65 - 85 Ohms
87 - 96 Diesel Front tank, Full 155 -165 Ohms. Rear 5 - 15 Ohms.
You can check it out here
https://www.gastankdepot.com/ford-ga...ing-units.html
Charlie
Got my dual gauge working now somewhat. The battery gauge still jumps though with the fuel switch flipping. Suspect a bad ground, very odd. The light switch does not cause it to jump.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 247
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So I replaced fuel gauges and confirmed the selector works. Can feel the solenoid activating in it is great. Fuel gauge moves back and forth perfectly. Fuse #6 is still blowing, almost every time the switch is flipped. Going to change it out and see how it goes.
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