Boost numbers and sensor location
I'm asking because I've been disappointed with my MST's performance, and many of you have helped me with that in my "down on power Excursion" thread. Perhaps I shouldn't be, though, as part of my spring-turned-to-summer-then-fall project was to replace my old Western Diesel gauges with Isspro ones, and as part of that I moved the sensor from the driver's side of the spider, right off the turbo outlet, to the more commonly used AIH port. I'm now topping out at 25-26psi, whereas I remember hitting 30 occasionally under my old setup. (Alas, I never logged boost, or even MAP, before, so I'm having to go off memory.) Those numbers really aren't comparable, though, unless the pressure drop between sensor locations is known. Before I test it, I thought I'd ask if any of you have.
The easiest way to test would be to look at the Isspro gauge during a boost leak test, but I think that would under-report the difference. While air does flow, through valve seals and by piston rings, that has to be a lot more restrictive than eight gulping cylinders, and that extra restriction would tend to equalize the pressures. Apart from having dual gauges, I think the best I could do would be to move the sensor back to the old location, and plug the AIH port, and make test runs like I have been.
Mark
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12318632
@Tugly did you ever try a boost reading comparison on Stinky by moving your sensor and AIH plug per this thread below?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...on-better.html
Wondering what difference you measured on that rig.
The boost drop should occur during high flow times as I believe the drop will be due to some flow restrictions within the intercooler.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12318632
@Tugly did you ever try a boost reading comparison on Stinky by moving your sensor and AIH plug per this thread below?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...on-better.html
Wondering what difference you measured on that rig.
Why does this info matter to me? Two reasons: First, as many of you know, I chased my tail for months, and burnt time some of you will never get back, trying to replicate what I used to see when I first installed the ported housing wheel years ago. The "only" change I made was that I installed KC's turbine upgrade, but it didn't seem right that it decreased turbo performance. Thanks to Charlie, and several of you, I did find some entirely self-inflicted problems that, when fixed, got me to the aforementioned 25-26psi, but not to the 29-30psi I saw before. It finally occurred to me the other night that, while I knew intuitively that there would be some pressure drop seen between my former and current sensor locations, that difference was not negligible, as I'd assumed. Joe's 3-5psi number puts me right back where I remembered the turbo being, which tells me I've gotten all there is give from an MST with my setup and conditions. (e.g. altitude) Do you guys agree??? (I've clearly gotten in trouble with assumptions before...)
So what? Well that brings me to the second, and more important, reason I asked the question. I'm thinking of moving away from the MST, likely to a KC Stage 1. All I'm really after is lower EGT's, that'll let me tow with a 60ish HP tune up our Colorado passes. Knowing that I'm getting all there is out of what I have makes me a little more likely to fire the rather large caliber Buck$ooka round it'll take to get one of those under the dash.
Some of you will suggest a tuning change, and I'm working on that. (Hydra sitting next to me right now, and tunes in my inbox.) I just have this feeling I'm going to be disappointed...
I have a couple of small quibbles with something Joe said in his very informative post. First, I think there is a "right" and "wrong" place for the boost sensor to go, and that is as close to the MAP sensor as possible. (Like the AIH port.) Unless one is in the business of testing turbo output, the "close to the turbo" location I used to use, and Joe illustrated, results in a "vanity" number. Yes, it's high, but you'll never get the benefit of it, and using it as a reference can skew expectations. It's kind of like your 401k balance: You may own it all, but you'll never see it all. Uncle Sam will take his cut, and he'll let you know what that is later. Thinking in terms what you can actually use leads to better decisions, both about money and boost, IMHO.
Second, I don't think "anything above 30psi doesn't do you any good, it's just superheated air" is true, at least in the absolute sense. It may be true of the stock turbo, but the "superheated air" is seen on the turbine side, in the form of high drive pressures and EGT's, with no corresponding increase in boost past 30psi, or so. If I spend the money on a turbo, it's because I'm expecting a little more usable (read "at the MAP sensor") boost than I see today, with a little less heat on the turbine side than I see today. In other words, a more efficient turbo than what I have. Am I thinking about his correctly?
Please, if any of you take issue with my assumptions or new-turbo-justification logic, tell me now! Black Friday is coming, and I'll need to make a decision while tempted by a sale price I hope to find. Clarity of mind is of the essence.

Mark
Your experience is valuable to me, and making me think I should test this for myself, particularly before spending money. Thanks!!
Mark
Bias can also come from the sensors and gauges. The things we use for this ain't precise. That would cost real money, and be a waste. So a bit of slop is to be expected in boost readings.
On the turbo question you want max CFM in the RPM range you will be using to blow up the fuel. So tunes play as much a role as turbo. More CFM is always good. Does not necessarily correspond to boost psi, but boost a simple easy way to know you are getting more air in your specific configuration.
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Your experience is valuable to me, and making me think I should test this for myself, particularly before spending money. Thanks!!
Mark
In my mind it is a waste of time to worry about or test any more. Basically stick the boost sensor in the most convenient location, or the best looking location and monitor your boost to aquire a baseline, and then from there just as a way to know if something has changed.
Remember, more boost is not always better, efficient boost is. We should strive to get fast spool and move the needed air, while having the lowest max boost needed, aka, properly sized turbo that spools and drives to match the rest of the trucks configuration, drivers driving habits, and the use/location of it.
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Eric, good point about the cooled charge impacting pressure drop.
To go along with those thoughts…
I did not read the CSIPSD thread but am going to assume he was using a stock(ish) turbo. Eric’s sensor location testing was with the SXE which is much more efficient. So turbo outlet was probably not as hot therefore may have less cooling and drop across the intercooler compared to the stock turbo.
Mark
To go along with those thoughts…
I did not read the CSIPSD thread but am going to assume he was using a stock(ish) turbo. Eric’s sensor location testing was with the SXE which is much more efficient. So turbo outlet was probably not as hot therefore may have less cooling and drop across the intercooler compared to the stock turbo.
I had the boost sensor on the spider at the turbo outlet on my previous truck, and remember hitting 30psi easily with DP tunes, and an ATS housing.
I'm not close to hitting that now it appears, based on the MAP sensor numbers. Granted, MGP is limited to 25psi due to the sensor, but I can see the boost leveling out as it hits the sensor limit - it's not going much further.
Will get a boost gauge installed soon to confirm my numbers, but it sure looks like Mark is seeing this same 3-5psi difference based on sensor location, and his boost is actually pretty good for an MST at high altitude.
When the sensor was in the AIH location, it tracked MAP almost perfectly, as nearly as I could ever tell. That tells me that, at least in my application and environment, the 3-5psi number isn't far off. Five seems a bit of a stretch, but three seems pretty likely. That's important, because if I add 3 to the 25psi I saw in my tow tune last week, that would match the best I'd ever seen in that tune, no matter where the sensor was placed. That's a big deal, because it screams to me, "Mark, stop working on this thing unless you want to really change things, as it's performing as good as it's going to."
So, to the efficiency discussion. I'm considering a stage 1 drop in, largely so I can easily swap back to something that says Garrett on the side if things here in Colorado continue as I expect them to. Is that likely to get me an efficiency bump large enough to matter when towing, and to justify the expense? If not, is the limitation something about the stock plumbing, and would a two-piece spider like is common in the T4 world make a difference? Or do I just need to bite the bullet and go T4 if I'm going to do anything? My current setup isn't bad, but I've wished for a little more in the dozens of times I've towed my 4Runner over the hill to Moab in the last 18 years. If I'm going to get a little more, now is the time.
Thanks for your input!!
Mark
If you are above 5,000' elevation towing, I would stay with what you have, (assuming stock injectors?) I believe the kc stage 1 may not light as good as you would desire, your gains with the stage would be above 2700rpms.
When towing how are your egts?
Yes on stock injectors. The most I'd ever likely do would be 160/30's, or I may take a page from your book and do AD30's, or Matt's hybrid split-shots. My current ones seem fine at 172K, so it's hard to justify spending that kind of money if nothing is broken. At least I could sell my MST upgrade parts if I bought a turbo, but core charges don't make that possible with injectors.
Mark














