egt and boost sensor placement
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 56
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From: Nashua, NH
egt and boost sensor placement
Whats the best place for an egt probe? I got my new exhaust parts today and the elbow that comes off the back of the turbo has a port with a plug. Is this the ideal spot for first egt? I also have read about drilling and tapping a hole in the actual exhaust manifold itself. Is there a completely different spot than what I am thinking. Or is both a great spot. What about two egt sensors? If two, then whats the best placement of each?
What about boost sensor? Is this on the front of the turbo? say for example do the AIH delete and then add boost sensor in its place? Doing alittle preplanning. Thanks
What about boost sensor? Is this on the front of the turbo? say for example do the AIH delete and then add boost sensor in its place? Doing alittle preplanning. Thanks
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,883
Likes: 776
From: SoCal/Wyoming
I drilled and tapped my exhaust manifold on the driver’s side. There is a nice open section there that is easily reached with a drill and tap set. I had been a little apprehensive about drilling into the part but after it was all over it really isn’t that bad and was actually very easy, a little stressful, but easy. My boost is run through the AIH so I can’t comment on other options.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
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From: Puget Sound
I have a picture around here somewhere.... Maybe later. I have my pyro sensor in the driver-side manifold just before the connection to the up-pipe.
Boost: Remember that the AIH delete or the MAP line shows the boost reaching the engine, this is not always the same as what the turbo is doing. There is a 30 PSI limit for a stock turbo and my boost sensor says my boost is there. That's not to say you should do what I did, but bear this in mind if you ever shoot for the maximum boost as I have. I have a shiny new 38R on my work bench and I'll be learning how to configure the truck to get the maximum 40 PSI on that.
Boost: Remember that the AIH delete or the MAP line shows the boost reaching the engine, this is not always the same as what the turbo is doing. There is a 30 PSI limit for a stock turbo and my boost sensor says my boost is there. That's not to say you should do what I did, but bear this in mind if you ever shoot for the maximum boost as I have. I have a shiny new 38R on my work bench and I'll be learning how to configure the truck to get the maximum 40 PSI on that.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
Likes: 50
Hey Tug, to bad you didnt have enough of a liter, to plumb the boost sensor in where the MAT sensor is and vise versa. Also noticed, your boost is an electrical signal. I dont see any clear tubing from it. Wonder how "accurate" its reading.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Puget Sound
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,470
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From: Pea Ridge, AR
Me too, but I read it as long enough "leader" as in electrical leads, to reach the lower temperature sensor. But it's all speculation on my part too.To the OP, the driver's side manifold is easily accessible and would be preferred as it will be showing a more direct indication of the temperature of the exhaust gas temps. The bung in your new downpipe may be for an EGT probe, but you will have to remember that if you install it there, you are losing a couple hundred degrees off of actual temps in the exhaust gasses.
For a boost sensor, either tap the MAP hose, or use the AIH delete plug Riffraff Diesel: RDP AIH Tapped Fitting
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,993
Likes: 2
From: Bend, OR
I have a picture around here somewhere.... Maybe later. I have my pyro sensor in the driver-side manifold just before the connection to the up-pipe.
Boost: Remember that the AIH delete or the MAP line shows the boost reaching the engine, this is not always the same as what the turbo is doing. There is a 30 PSI limit for a stock turbo and my boost sensor says my boost is there. That's not to say you should do what I did, but bear this in mind if you ever shoot for the maximum boost as I have. I have a shiny new 38R on my work bench and I'll be learning how to configure the truck to get the maximum 40 PSI on that.
Boost: Remember that the AIH delete or the MAP line shows the boost reaching the engine, this is not always the same as what the turbo is doing. There is a 30 PSI limit for a stock turbo and my boost sensor says my boost is there. That's not to say you should do what I did, but bear this in mind if you ever shoot for the maximum boost as I have. I have a shiny new 38R on my work bench and I'll be learning how to configure the truck to get the maximum 40 PSI on that.
Its not right or wrong, just your data will be different then 90% of the people out there.
It will be more accurate then a mechanical gauge. Not to mention much easier to install and little to any chace of issues that a mechanical gauge lends its self to.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,993
Likes: 2
From: Bend, OR
I have a picture around here somewhere.... Maybe later. I have my pyro sensor in the driver-side manifold just before the connection to the up-pipe.
Boost: Remember that the AIH delete or the MAP line shows the boost reaching the engine, this is not always the same as what the turbo is doing. There is a 30 PSI limit for a stock turbo and my boost sensor says my boost is there. That's not to say you should do what I did, but bear this in mind if you ever shoot for the maximum boost as I have. I have a shiny new 38R on my work bench and I'll be learning how to configure the truck to get the maximum 40 PSI on that.
Boost: Remember that the AIH delete or the MAP line shows the boost reaching the engine, this is not always the same as what the turbo is doing. There is a 30 PSI limit for a stock turbo and my boost sensor says my boost is there. That's not to say you should do what I did, but bear this in mind if you ever shoot for the maximum boost as I have. I have a shiny new 38R on my work bench and I'll be learning how to configure the truck to get the maximum 40 PSI on that.
I have pushed a stocker to over 40 psi with a 1.00 exhaust housing and it lived. Drove that way for several weeks.
Its not the boost pressure that hurts the turbo, its the pressure differental that damages the bushings.
Keep in mind however anything above about 25-27psi is nothing more then superheated air, doing you no good.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
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From: Puget Sound
The rating on the stock turbo is 25psi... That is what it is rated for...
I have pushed a stocker to over 40 psi with a 1.00 exhaust housing and it lived. Drove that way for several weeks.
Its not the boost pressure that hurts the turbo, its the pressure differental that damages the bushings.
Keep in mind however anything above about 25-27psi is nothing more then superheated air, doing you no good.
I have pushed a stocker to over 40 psi with a 1.00 exhaust housing and it lived. Drove that way for several weeks.
Its not the boost pressure that hurts the turbo, its the pressure differental that damages the bushings.
Keep in mind however anything above about 25-27psi is nothing more then superheated air, doing you no good.
Ah... leader. That makes more sense... good catch! I have a longer leader, the service loop is out of the photo.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
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LOL...sorry Tug, been a looonnnggg day. Al got it, "leader".
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,573
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From: Seattle
Here's where most drill for the pyro sensor:
3-Gauge Install Pictures
They also have a good step by step for the drill and tap process. Not as bad as it might seem. For me, it was the easiest part of the gauge mounting project.
Here is my Isspro electronic boost sensor mounted in the AIH delete plug from Clay:
3-Gauge Install Pictures
They also have a good step by step for the drill and tap process. Not as bad as it might seem. For me, it was the easiest part of the gauge mounting project.
Here is my Isspro electronic boost sensor mounted in the AIH delete plug from Clay:
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Nashua, NH
So when removing the AIH, it's probably wise to undo the two wires as well? I may leave wires over the winter. Just in case I feel it's not doing well on the real cold days.
Also, the AIH plug looks like it may have pipe threads on it. Is that so or are they metric? I may even use a brass plug temporarily till riffraff one comes.
Thanks guys!!!
Also, the AIH plug looks like it may have pipe threads on it. Is that so or are they metric? I may even use a brass plug temporarily till riffraff one comes.
Thanks guys!!!
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So when removing the AIH, it's probably wise to undo the two wires as well? I may leave wires over the winter. Just in case I feel it's not doing well on the real cold days.
Also, the AIH plug looks like it may have pipe threads on it. Is that so or are they metric? I may even use a brass plug temporarily till riffraff one comes.
Thanks guys!!!
Also, the AIH plug looks like it may have pipe threads on it. Is that so or are they metric? I may even use a brass plug temporarily till riffraff one comes.
Thanks guys!!!
The hole is 1/8" NPT as you suspected.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,112
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From: South Shore, MA
So when removing the AIH, it's probably wise to undo the two wires as well? I may leave wires over the winter. Just in case I feel it's not doing well on the real cold days.
Also, the AIH plug looks like it may have pipe threads on it. Is that so or are they metric? I may even use a brass plug temporarily till riffraff one comes.
Thanks guys!!!
Also, the AIH plug looks like it may have pipe threads on it. Is that so or are they metric? I may even use a brass plug temporarily till riffraff one comes.
Thanks guys!!!
Also, no need to keep the wires attached. The truck won't even know the heater is gone - and neither will you. You'll be fine without it!
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