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Time for injector cups?

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Old Oct 7, 2021 | 08:21 PM
  #46  
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AubieTN, thank you for finding that quote and visual aid for anyone interested in reading how some take a different approach than what Ford calls for.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2021 | 11:27 PM
  #47  
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I put it "in the green" in the above photo, and over the edge into the orange. I keep it away from the hole where the nozzle will be protruding through.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 07:32 AM
  #48  
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You guys have been such a great help thanks so much!
 
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 12:45 PM
  #49  
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She’s alive and well! My brother and friend came over and we knocked it out. The RiffRaff tool rocked it made it so easy very happy I didn’t try to hammer them in…

Two of my injectors (one was a reman unit) had serous corrosion on the seal surfaces I don’t know how they didn’t leak! Luckily my friend had a set of AB codes so I used two of his to replace mine. If I were smart and rich I’d just replace the whole set but for now this will work.

Here’s some pics in no particular order. Not a terrible job to do and I’m glad I’m a little more familiar with these engines now but damn I hope I never have to do it again haha.

Thanks again for all the help everyone!







 
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 02:16 PM
  #50  
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Well done sir!

It is nice to have a helping hand once in a while. Even if they are only there as comic relief.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 02:36 PM
  #51  
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Oh and for anyone that might have to do this repair one thing I’d recommend is to crank the engine over with the injectors out. There was a lot of oil in the cylinders from removing the injectors and such. Had I not done that I bet it would have hydro-locked!
 
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 03:21 PM
  #52  
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Nice work RB2. That injector sure looked like caca, here's to a job successfully done
 
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 03:28 PM
  #53  
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And the self satisfaction of a job well done and personally knowing what exactly was done along with some serious cost savings is no doubt a very rewarding feeling. This should give you confidence for future projects on your 7.3.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Rot Box 2
Oh and for anyone that might have to do this repair one thing I’d recommend is to crank the engine over with the injectors out. There was a lot of oil in the cylinders from removing the injectors and such. Had I not done that I bet it would have hydro-locked!
Yes, hydro-lock is a concern after this job. However, you do not want to crank the engine over with the injectors out (or by using the key in the ignition). If you do, you will pump oil and diesel fuel back into the cylinders you are trying to evacuate the oil and diesel from in the first place. Each cylinders' oil and fuel rails are wide open with the injectors out...and 60 psi of fuel and 500 psi of oil make a huge mess quick.

Put the injectors back in, and remove the glow plugs. You want to use the starter solenoid over on the firewall in a 99-01, and the starter wire near the same place on an 02-03. I prefer to remove the glow plugs after replacing the injectors, and I then spin the engine over with a remote button attached to the starter solenoid. No fuel pump comes on, and the oil rails are sealed back up with the injectors back in.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2021 | 07:16 AM
  #55  
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Nicmike, thanks for the heads up. I did make a oily mess that’s for sure and that thought never crossed my mind good to know in the future.

That said I’m glad it didn’t hydrolock I might have dodged a bullet!
 
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Old Oct 11, 2021 | 08:04 AM
  #56  
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RB2, FYI there’s a lot of great instructions at the top of the FTE forum in the Tech folder and I think there’s instructions for injector/cup work along with much more, sorry I didn’t mention this early on, but good info for future projects. RiffRaff also has instructions on their web site too. These can help with preventing errors and giving one a more comfortable/confident feeling with the work ahead. The tech folder is a vast accumulation of instructions/pics from fellow FTERs’ first hand experience over the years. Sous and others have done a GREAT job with these.
 
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