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After going back and forth over it I talked to my brother who’s been a huge help on this project and we’ve decided to rent the RiffRaff tool to press the cups in. I don’t need the truck right now so it can wait a week or two. I think the press method is pretty much the best route to take it seems?
I’ll give them a call in the morning I need to get some uhvc gaskets from them anyway. Good times.
I saw on a YouTube video where the guy recommended taking scotch-brite to the injector cups to scuff up the surfaces and give the loc-tite something to bite onto. Do you guys recommend doing this?
Gonna take some acetone to the sealing surfaces to make sure there’s no residual oil on them. Seems like a good idea…
RiffRaff press tool should be here by the weekend… oh boy. Thinking this was the right decision.
A Dremel tool with a small round stainless wire brush works great for cleaning out the bores, especially the two at the firewall. Maybe some of the guys will chime in regarding scotch bright on the cups.
any idea on what cause them to crack.. overheated, old antifreeze, etc.. I am coming up to 220K on my 2003 with stock everything and was wondering what can cause this devil..
Originally Posted by Rot Box 2
240k miles. Appears to be stock injectors too fwiw
It would be interesting to know if the cracks were all in the same orientation in the bore. The cracks appear to be basically the same length. I’m not sure a metallurgist could identify the cause such as stress corrosion cracking, a stress riser in the cup fabrication. Possibly a cup material defect. I’m guessing the cups are partially formed at high temperatures using a mandrel/die, then finished with some machining work. Oh well.
Not sure on the orientation in the bore just pulled them and said yep here’s another bad one lol.
The thing I find odd is the cracks don’t look fresh. Usually when something metal cracks or breaks it’s clean and shiny. These don’t look like either.
Having only owned the truck for one year I wish I knew it’s history. Could have been overheated or neglected when it comes to coolant. Not really sure.
I received the press tool today along with new valve cover gaskets/harness and a couple coolant filters—figured the coolant filter setup wouldn’t hurt while I’m throwing money at it.
you using the new stainless steel cup vs the brass ones?? not sure what is better.
I went with brass from RiffRaff. My friend that’s helping me and I have worked with stainless for many years and i ‘think’ stainless would be much less forgiving when it comes to any imperfections in the bore. I could be up in the night but I think brass might press in a little better than stainless would. At least that was my thought process when ordering.
As rare as these failures seem to be I think I’ll be alright with the oem International brand brass cups for many years to come so long as I don’t screw up the install. At least I hope so..
A few months ago there was a small discussion about the sealant on cups and the areas it should be applied to. I am not at my laptop right now, so I cannot search for it efficiently.
I believe @Nicmike was one of the experienced FTE'rs and wrench turners that provided his input.
this is from Sous back in March, 2021 with a pic. Should provide some clarification. Think is same as instructions from RiffRaff.
@Sous
Sous , 03-17-2021 11:09 AM
IPA Please...
Due to all of the key words in this thread, I am sure it will come up in search results for years to come. So, just to make sure we are on the same sheet of music as the future readers, I have created a crude drawing below.
1. The service factory repair manual states "no retaining compound" on the bottom surface of the cup.
2. Both Clay at Riffraff and Matthew at BDP claim they do put a small amount of retaining compound on the bottom surface of the cup.
In the image below, the "green" color represents where the service manual states to put retaining compound. The "orange" color represents where Clay, Matthew and RPMRon have put some retaining compound, is this right?
