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On your boost issues, your numbers don't look that bad to me. My dually will run very similar figures if I'm taking it easy on it, like you're probably doing. If I really hammer on it, I can get boost up to 28, but usually I never see 20 with just highway driving. It also idles at 85% VGT duty cycle. Does yours high idle with a noticeable whistle when its started cold? Mine is a crew cab, 4x4, King Ranch with bigger tires, so I'm probably not much lighter than you are.
Yeah, you're heavy, but prolly only about 8-9000lbs, I'd guess. My F450 with heavy flatbed and 7 toolboxes full of stuff prolly weighs what this bus does. But also, the Eseries have 90ish less HP. I don't know if that effects boost. Good to know that you idle at 85, didn't know what I'm supposed to idle at. That's my big worry at this point, that I'm heating up the engine whenever I idle.
I can't help any with that. This may be a bonehead idea, but I think I read somewhere that you can unplug the vgt solenoid while the engine is running and you should hear a change in tone. Kind of a shade tree way to at least find out if its doing anything? Not sure if your hearing is up to that though...
Thx. I think Bonehead is more than an idea, lol, it requires follow-through, haha. It's hard as heck to reach the plug on this Eseries. My arm would be contacting the down/y pipes.
Torreeador Diesel suggested that the CHRA might be bad and not throw a code. And I saw an old thread with the "rotating thing" that moves the unison ring broken off, and that might not throw a code while still letting me push the piston. I'm hoping the VGT test I just did proved those are OK.
So, I just figured out the the EBP I'm describing, like the VGT%, are just the commanded values. So, I have no clue what my actual EBP while driving now because I haven't used Forscan while driving since I cleaned the sensor. No place to set the PC except on the wide open floor of this bus and I didn't want it sliding around.
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I checked in TP and don't see a gauge for EBP Actual or VGT actual. On the other hand, I don't see the PID for Boost that Hydro pointed me to in Forscan. Can the BAFX adaptor communicate to both apps at once? Prolly not. And now, I wonder whether the TP BOOST gauge is actual or commanded. Geezus, nothing is ever easy.
Not sure where you get that on the EBP, It is not a commanded value. It is a simple sensor. That said, a 03 or early 04 model year is not going to use the EBP sensor, so on those model years you might not find the EBP value.
If you can find MAP, then you can EASILY figure out boost.
As posted above - the VGT is just like the IPR - they are both control valves with no positioners. All you can get are commanded values.
I was trying to understand what you'd said earlier about a commanded value of 30ish and the actual at 8. The only gauges I saw that match those values from my posted screenshots were the Exhaust Pressure Desired and Exhaust Pressure Gauge. I assumed those read from the EBP sensor, IDK.
Trying to make a list of what to check on my next test drive.
{Gulp} Easily for most, I guess. My problem with ForscanPC is that I can't drive and mess with it at the same time, so the only readings I can capture are when idling. I'll use it again and see what the EB status and desired are while driving.
Just subtract 14.7 from the MAP value and you get boost at sea level. The Baro sensor will tell you what to subtract when you get into higher elevations.
Another name for boost is Manifold Gauge Pressure.
The PCM will have the "desired" value for many sensors, but it is different than a commanded value. Using ICP as an example ........ The PCM has a desired value for ICP based on where the engine is running, so it commands the IPR valve to operate accordingly. The PCM will look at the actual ICP value and if it isn't close enough to the desired, it will continue actuating the IPR accordingly. Desired and actual values, along with the duty cycle of the actuator, can help in troubleshooting.
So if the EBP sensor value isn't where it is desired to be, the VGT will be commanded to move (ie more or less duty cycle command). There is more involved in turbo operation than just the EBP, so this is a simplified example.
If you are commanding the VGT with ForScan -- Do Not Drive -- only Rev the engine in park -- with the VGT at 99% and RPM @ about 2000 -- you should see 20 psi easily on the MAP -- then shift the slider to 100% and the turbo should open up quickly -- shift again to 99% and the turbo will completely close
This is only to prove the turbo can be commanded and that the vanes are not sticking
OK, gentlemen, I'm going to quit whooping this dead horse. Results of the test drive were good. While driving, the EP Desired and EP Status numbers are the same. Boost got to 10 going up a hill. EBP was close to 30. All of that was at RPMs under 2500, mostly around 2000. My EOT/ECT got to 221/212, never saw any black smoke, although I didn't every punch it real hard, and I never do with this bus. It's just hot outside. The temps went down fast every time I slowed down.
The fan runs a lot, which robs my power, but once I got on the freeway, it settled down. However, once I hook up my trailer, I expect that fan will get a workout as I go over the mountains in AZ and CA. Actually, the ones it W. Texas are worse - not as steep but miles long. Wish I could see better, I'd make the drive at night. Major difference.
My front/OEM AC is still working good, so I bought some 4x8 insulation sheets to build a wall behind my sleeping area. Me and pup will be fine.
I appreciate everyone's help. My itinerary goes from Houston out I-10 to LA, north on 101 to Paso Robles, then back east to Tennessee on I-40 through OK and Ark. If anyone is along that route, I'm buying beers!
Thanks, again. I know I'm a mess, ignorant and memory loss don't go well together, but with everyone's help, this old man lives another day.
Bottom line - it was the EBP sensor clogged up; a simple problem and easy fix, which I turned into a big mess. I still have to fix my exhaust manifold connections. Amazing how the c-clamps have held on. I expect the heat expands the metal making them even tighter. But, rather than weld them, I'm going to use wire and see how that works. I can always put the clamps back on the road and make it long enough to find a shop to weld them up.
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