So, I've been trying to get my ACs on this bus to work. The rear aftermarket has a major leak, not sure where; but, I got the front one working and replaced the blower motor and melted squirrel cage. Took it for a test run today of about 100 miles to check how well the front AC would be able to keep it cool inside. Forgot to take my OBDII with me and forgot to scan for codes before I left.

I also hooked up a typical 110v house fan using my inverter plugged into the dash. Wasn't sure the inverter would give it enough juice, but it seemed to work fine. Drove along seemingly fine although the engine fan was staying on most of the time. I figured it was just dang hot outside - internet says high of 91, but it seemed hotter. No trailer or heavy loads, although the bus weighs about 11k/lbs. The fan never went into scream mode though.

A couple of times the truck didn't want to upshift at around 30-35mph as I was accelerating. The first time, I just thought it was the fan pulling off engine rpm. It shifted with a little bit of a clunk and then seemed fine. The second time, same little clunk, but it started blowing black smoke and kept doing that for the next couple of miles until I exited the freeway. Once I slowed down, I didn't see any more smoke for the two miles at low speeds to my house.

As I've said before, it's hard for me to distinguish a miss or hesitation on this bus from all the rattling it does all the time. But, it didn't seem like the bog I've felt before when I lost injectors in my trucks, but there was definitely a loss of power those two times.

Got to the house, scanned and pulled up these codes, but again, not sure if some were already present. For example, the batteries were low the first time I started it this week (Hadn't started it in a couple of months. So I charged them up and they still read over 13v. Haven't done a load test. They're less than a year old. But maybe some of these codes came from that first start with the low batteries. I also wonder whether running that 110v fan was messing with my system voltage

P0113 Intake air temp circuit high input
P0278 Cylinder 6 contrib
P0562 System voltage low
P0620 Generator control circuit
P0645 AC Clutch Relay control circuit
P1378 Torque didn't give this a title

I doubt this matters, but I also get several network errors U0100, U0115, and U0155. Two body codes - B1318 and B2900 - and a Chassis code - C1237. Some of those have always been there on this truck.

The serpentine belt seems fine.

Dang, I lost access to the online diagnostic app I have used so many times. Any suggestions where to start? Do I have a bad #6 injector? They are such a PITA to replace on these Eseries. arrrggh. Maybe a bad FICM? I'm letting it cool down and will check it when cold - does it need to be stone cold? Could that 110v fan have been drawing too many volts and messed with my FICM and then the injector?

Dang luck - I supposed to leave Monday for CA and was picking up some loads today for that trip. Now, I got customers shipments on my truck and others waiting.

 

So, I cleared all the codes, then turned on the key, but by the time Torque synced up, FICM voltages were 48v and 13.5v. How do I get that stone cold FICM read when it takes so long to sync the tool? It's not cold yet, of course (just a few minutes later now), but just wondering.

Then I started it up and it seems to idle just fine. No smoke. I let it run a couple of minutes and checked the codes again - nothing except those body/chassis codes. Would any of those codes be the type that would trigger immediately? For instance, I would think the P0562 system voltage code, the P1378, and P0620 would trigger. If so, I'm thinking those were all there from me letting it sit two months and then starting it a couple of times trying to fix the AC. And that AC clutch code - probably from me working on the AC before I jumped the compressor.

How long would it take that cylinder 6 to reset? Should I go drive it now and see if it does?

 

On another forum, it was suggested that I put the truck in 3rd gear with the brake on and give it some pedal. Did that, up to maybe 1200rpm, and didn't hear any misses, no smoke.

There was definitely smoke on the freeway, more than I'd see from just giving it too much pedal.

 

Thanks, everyone. Don't know what I'd do without this forum. Pretty sure I've figured out that it's my turbo. At freeway speeds, the Boost gauge in TP becomes a Vacuum gauge and displays a negative number. At slower speeds, I never saw Boost go above 2.5. VGT stays between 50-55. Drove about 30 miles after clearing codes and none of them came back, so I expect those all showed up when I started it with low batteries.

Anyway, thanks again, and if I can ever do anything for y'all, LMK!

 

Hey, your back. As you realized, black means over-fueled - so either not enough air or injector issues. Maybe both since you've got a code.

 

Thanks, Jack. All those codes went away after clearing and driving another 30 miles. I expect they set when I first started this bus with low batteries after sitting all summer. Question: where does the soot originate that clogs up the EBP tube? Back in the spring, when I was driving, I had similar loss of power and it went away when I cleaned that tube. Now, I'm thinking a bad turbo caused the clog. Of course, the tube has prolly never been cleaned in 13 years too.

But, I still have the turbo Torreador Diesel left me, so I'm going to swap it in, and clean out that tube.

I think I've asked before how much boost should I be getting out of an Eseries - I've never seen more than 4-5 from this one.

Got a long Labor Day weekend - swapping turbo (harder in an Eseries), building a insulation wall inside the bus so the front AC will keep me and dog cool across the Mojave, and replacing the v-nose sheet metal on my trailer when my bus hit it when I jackknifed backing up. Then, it's back on the road for several weeks - 4 Tx/Ca roundtrips booked. So, hopefully, y'all won't be hearing much from me, but knowing my luck, I'll be posting on the side of the road somewhere soon.

If you need a new roof, don't call me.

 

Geezus, watched DTRon pull the turbo out of an Eseries - he makes it look too easy. But then, I watched him do P/S injectors/dummy plugs just for fun. Dang, I hope I never have to deal with those. The D/S were torture enough.

I'm also feeling a little like Dorothy when the Good Witch shows her how she could have always just clicked her heels to go home. I just found out that I could have been using my PC version of Forscan all this time to do a lot more tests. I always figured I needed some special cable, but now I learn that it will connect by Bluetooth, and my old laptop has Bluetooth. Heck, I've paid shops twice to do those tests.

 

Well, hose me. I updated my Forscan app to the latest rev, and now it requires an activation key, and my original version is gone. GRRR

 

Dang, exhaust bolts. Have to pull all the down pipes to have room to get the turbo out, and only got one of the bolts to come loose. WTH did they design those flanges so that you can't get a socket or box wrench on the nut or bolt??? Geezus, nothing is ever easy. I see folks heating rusted bolts - some douse it with water after. I'll prolly start a fire doing that. Thinking I might be better off cutting the bolts off and buying new ones.