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New starter. Went to leave work and bzzzz. Spins fine, doesn't fling out the bending to engage anything. So that is fun to do in a downpour.
Granted, I've changed one in the creek while offroading, but that was out having fun and planning on getting wet and whatnot.
Got the frame painted with two two coats of Eastwood Rust Encapsulating paint and one top coat of Krylon. New spring brackets and springs installed along with pre-bent stainless brake lines. Waiting on the axle now to get done. Having it rebuilt with a track lock. Have to put the exhaust back in and order fuel tanks. Sway bars will be the last things to go in. Lots of work to do still.
Put in new instrument lens. This was a farm truck so it was scratched beyond repair. Also replaced the “wait to start” module as it’s had a crack since I bought the truck. Used some of those plastic inserts from CP that go where the screws go for the cluster surround , they work great.
Put in new instrument lens. This was a farm truck so it was scratched beyond repair. Also replaced the “wait to start” module as it’s had a crack since I bought the truck. Used some of those plastic inserts from CP that go where the screws go for the cluster surround , they work great.
Where did you find that? And how hard was it to replace? Mine's had a crack since I got it and over the last 2 years it has just gotten worse. Been thinking about tearing it out to make the cluster red instead of green and orange as well so I might as well hit two birds with one stone.
eBay is filled with parts. It's fairly easy to get the cluster out. You may want to drop the steering column an inch or two for more clearance and plan on cracking the cluster bezel on removal. 30 year old brittle plastic doesn't like to be disturbed.
Where did you find that? And how hard was it to replace? Mine's had a crack since I got it and over the last 2 years it has just gotten worse. Been thinking about tearing it out to make the cluster red instead of green and orange as well so I might as well hit two birds with one stone.
eBay for the bezel. Complete Performance for plastic inserts that go where the screws mount the pod (an area that’s always cracked in my experience) https://cpaddict.com/products/dash-b...erts-1992-1997. They sell the whole pod but for the price I’ll stick to gluing mine together as long as possible.
My wait to start had a crack in the lens too, found one on eBay.
It’s not a hard job. No need to drop the column, just tilt all the way down. Take your time as parts are brittle. Get some JB weld Plasticweld so you can fix cracked parts.
Installed an Auto Line rebuilt Throttle Body and Motorcraft TPS on my 1995 F-150, 5.0L Eddie Bauer, it now idles at ~ 750 RPMs. Before the parts change, the engine would hunt for 750 RPMs curb idle. Purchased both from Rock Auto.
eBay for the bezel. Complete Performance for plastic inserts that go where the screws mount the pod (an area that’s always cracked in my experience) https://cpaddict.com/products/dash-b...erts-1992-1997. They sell the whole pod but for the price I’ll stick to gluing mine together as long as possible.
My wait to start had a crack in the lens too, found one on eBay.
It’s not a hard job. No need to drop the column, just tilt all the way down. Take your time as parts are brittle. Get some JB weld Plasticweld so you can fix cracked parts.
On my 1996 F250 5.8 4x4 with the 3.55 and zf5, this morning I cleaned battery terminal connections and put some antifreeze in the overflow tank. So I have owned this truck a little over two months now. I discovered apparently this truck has an engine block heater, and there is a cover on the end of the cord to protect the three prongs.
Attempted welding nuts on broken thermostat bolts with no luck, and didn't want to blow the aluminum intake apart. Now attempting to drill out the bolts. Going to try an easy-out tomorrow.
Added a Painless 20 circuit bulkhead connector for the Autometer gauges I installed. Going to be using more of it next year when the EFI and trans control goes aftermarket.
