Yeah, I hit it with some type of wd and have it in a ziploc bag. Tben left out if town for a week. Well see how it looks tomorrow. Hopefully still good.

Also the Evaporust clean it can be reused. They just suggest filtering out the debris but the fluid can be put back into the bottle amd reused.

 

Replaced the hinge pins and bushings in my driver's side door.
It's nice to have it close right and there's no more gap over my left shoulder.

 

Looks great! I need to do that too. Did you remove the doors/hinges and R&R the pins or did you leave the doors/hinges on the truck? Any tips?

 

Haven’t taken any wrenches out yet, but finally ordered all the parts for my suspension upgrade. Doing a D60 swap up front using a 4.10 ball joint axle out of a ‘95 F-350. PMF 2.5” RSK kit with factory height 99-04 Super Duty springs. The rear is getting a Sky Manufacturing 2.5” shackle kit to run ‘08-16 super duty rear springs. And last but not least, Detroit TrueTrac’s front and rear.

As it sits now, my truck (‘97 F-250 CCSB) has an add-a-leaf leveling kit up front from a previous owner. This kit will give me about 1” more in the front and 2.5” in the rear with a rear block delete. Should get me back close to a factory rake. Springs will all be Expedition Packs from Atlas. Wheels are staying stock and I’m keeping the 285/75R16’s on it. Super excited to finally get this project done! I’ll post some pictures of the before and after.

 

I opened the door and sandwiched it between two saw horses and supported it with cinder blocks and a 4x4. I marked the hinges where they bolt to the door and unbolted the hinge bolts from the door.
Those bolts are a 13 mm head on my '88.
I moved the door away from the hinges a few inches. The only wiring in my door is speaker wires, no power windows or locks.
I drilled the flared top of the hinge pins with a 21/64" bit, then punched the pins down through the hinge with a 1/4" punch.
I don't have a vice, so I vice gripped the half of the hinge that was free, to my bumper and punched out the brass bushings. (I marked the hinges halves for orientation and top of the door and bottom of the door before I removed them.)
I pressed the new bushings in with a 1/4" drive maybe 10 mm? socket, pinned the hinge halves back together and dropped one E clip in the grass. I'll replace it tomorrow.
Then I bolted the door back on.
Be careful with the brass bushings. They're fairly brittle.
Don't drop the E clips.
Also, my inner bracket that the door bolts thread into was very easy to cross thread. I cross threaded one out of four bolts going back in. I stopped when I felt resistance and only ruined two threads. I straightened them out with a metal blade on an oscillating tool.
Edit: I used two 38410 Dorman hinge pin kits.

 

Finally got around to installing a new reverse light switch and splicing in a new connector. Now I can see where I'm going when backing up.

Also tightened the everlovin' crap out of the junction between the passenger side header and the exhaust pipe. Freeda's so much quieter that when I started her, I thought she stalled out. I can talk with my bride and hear myself think now! She really needs a new donut but it works for now. Kinda proves the saying: "There is nothing as permanent as a temporary solution that works."

 

I relate to enjoying quiet exhaust. My truck had homemade dual exhaust with Hooker mufflers when I got it. Then, for a few months, I was running it with no exhaust system at all around the yard.
I put it back as close as possible to stock, with Walker components. Nice and quiet.
You might want to verify that you need a donut at all. My Y pipe flanges bolt directly to my exhaust manifolds. No donuts.

 

Put in a stainless crossover line and the donaldson blue air filter & bracket on the 97 SCSB PSD. Its slowly turning into a money pit, but I don't really care, i enjoy being able to "do the roar". Hearing an unusual howling from the rear of the truck that is only there when I'm moving and in gear.. my mind is telling me rear wheel bearings/universals on the rear driveshaft, but I won't know for sure until I man up and start digging.

 

I got a weird vibration in my truck while towing a trailer. I assumed it was the trailer. After I disconnected the trailer, the vibration was still there. I crawled under the truck and shook the driveshaft and found the center u-joint had some play in it, and the carrier bearing rubber mount was deteriorating.
So off to rockauto I went for some spicer u-joint and timken carrier bearing.
6 hours of using a bearing press and I got the rear driveshaft rebuilt. This time, the joints have grease fittings.




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This is the engine going in.

 

Changed the oil and filter, checked the transmission fluid and went for a ride.

 

Putting in Mickey Thompson Baja 35’s and Ultra wheels.

 

Discovered a broken bushing in my driver's side door hinge, because it wouldn't close right again.
I didn't replace the bottom bushings when I had the door off and I should have.
Next time I get a chance, I'll be redoing the job.
Edit: I did replace that bushing. It must have cracked on the way in. The top bushings looked ok, so I left them.

 

Replaced this broken bushing. I know the replacement wasn't cracked. Hopefully it holds.

 

If the original steel hole isn't perfectly round, the brass bushing will crack almost immediately.