Thanks! current plan is to use another outside patch panel and see if I can flip it to the opposite side and trim / hammer to fit.

 

Here is another option...Flashback F100's - USA Made Steel Made Repair Panels On This page will be only USA Made Repair Panels,, not like others that carry those Black Tawain cheap repair panels, Here is how I feel on ste...scroll down the page to find the inner portion that you are looking for to repair. _ Tony.

 

Nice! I didn't know someone was making them now. That's a great site! I already have the cheap panels and I'm not making a perfect restoration on this truck. So $150 each side is a bit much for that little section of typically unseen metal but I understand the pricing if they are the only ones making them. They look like they are a nice quality patch with great stamping lines as well. Thanks for sharing that site I still have 4 more trucks to go so I'll be shopping there soon

 

Here is one more for you to check out...https://tabcoparts.com/amfinder/ _ Tony.

 

Ran out and pressure washed it on my lunch break (one of the benefits of working from home)

Before



And after...

 

Going to paint the underside I take it? Good opportunity to put some of those self-adhesive head shields on the belly of the cab above where you will be running your exhaust.

 

Yeah not a bad idea on the heat shields, I plan on coating it with POR15 and then painting it.

 

Started on the bottom of the cab this evening. I grabbed the section I cut out of a rear passenger corner patch panel and flipped it to the inside drivers side and started forming it to fit.

As you can see none of the body lines match up.





kept pounding away on it knocking in the body lines slowly working each one.




getting closer each time I bring it back to the cab.




finally happy enough with it to weld it in.






Not too bad considering I started with this...





I also continued welding in the floor patches from the bottom... well until I ran out of welding wire. Have to make a trip to the store tomorrow for more.

 

I think that looks real good! What are you going to about the cab mounts? My only input here is DO NOT USE THE ONE PIECE CAB MOUNTS FROM LMC!!!!!!!! You would be better off fixing yours or getting the reproduction ones from Dennis Carpenter.

 

LOL , Just ordered them late last night...



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I was going to order the cab support that goes across under the cab but DC was sold out and I also wasn't happy spending another $100 to $200 depending on buying the patches or buying a whole replacement panel and then still having to drill cut and weld it in. I figured have enough scrap metal laying around that I could probably come up with something. So here is my rough start to a patch panel...

 

Nice! _ Tony.

 

Did a bunch of grinding today on all the floor welds and other areas so nothing too exciting, I was able to finish up the crossmember on the drivers side so that's nice to have done now.

Floor pan all cleaned up and starting to look like part of the truck...




Crossmember welded in





ground it smooth




Not too bad for a scrap chunk of sheet metal from a tailgate... (Ford tailgate as well )

 

Wow dude amazing job!

I am basically starting the exact same projects you are doing. Literally no fabrication experience but a lot of youtube videos and I am decently handy.

You really recommend disconnecting everything to get the cab vertical? Any other points for a newbie?

Also, I have gone back and forth about a dozen times on cab mounts vs floor pans first. Last check I decided on mounts first because the pan rust goes really far up the footwell. I am questioning that decision now though...

 

Thank you, in my opinion I would do the floor pans then the cab mounts. I've replaced half a dozen floor pans and a couple mounts and the floor has to be cut out and typically the mount is cut some when trying to remove the floor. If you happen to cut a bad rusty mount it's no big deal. but if you cut your nice new one that would suck. Even if I'm removing the cab mounts I try to leave them intact until the floor is in because they help you support and line up the new floor. As for putting the cab vertical, I'm swapping this cab to another chassis and it makes it easer to move when it's not weighted down with everything. Knowing that I removed everything and leaned it back so I wouldn't have to weld above my head. (Hot metal shower isn't much fun) but I have replaced cab mounts and floors in a freshly painted truck (I do not recommend but wasn't my truck so didn't have much say about it) and leaning it back wasn't an option. It really depends on the level of finish you want for your project. The floors are hard (not impossible but hard) to weld and grind smooth from the underside if still on the frame. The right tools help accomplish the hard task so make sure you spend some $$$ on tools as well as parts. Oh and take you time, remember all the TV shows and Youtube guys have video editing so welding in a patch panel takes mere seconds or a few minutes but really takes hours. don't get discouraged if it's taking longer than expected and if you have trouble jump on here and post a question. I've been on and off of here for about 10 years and most everyone on here wants to help if they can. Last thing I will toss in is I'm basically self taught, TV car shows, youtube, and no fear of screwing up can go a long way. (as well as practice welding before welding on your truck )

Good luck