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You definitely need to remove the flat head bolts. Also, if this if a '48-52 truck you need to turn the two adjusting cam bolts on the back side of the brake plate to adjust them. The larger trucks don't have the adjustable spur cylinders like pictured above.
Removing the flat head bolts are always a pain. I have an Oxy/Acetylene torch I use to head stubborn like these but I've also had luck using a canister torch with tank like you buy at the local hardware store, just takes longer.
Another solution that I've used to remove those flat head screws (best as a Hail Mary when all other options have been eliminated and you are way past being nice to them) is to very carefully center punch the screw dead center in the slot and them drill the head off with a 3/8" bit. You just need to go deep enough to weaken the head. Don't worry about removing the remains of the bolt in the hub or axle flange. You do not need to reinstall them. The only legitimate purpose those things serve in to retain the drums to the axles during shipping to the manufacturer and during vehicle assembly. They quit using them altogether in the very early 60's.
I should have mentioned all hand torches aren't created equal. I have an old Bernzomatic autostart. (90 degree style) I am afraid will die because it works WAY better than the old brass ones I have.
Great feedback. I got three or the retaining bolts off of the drivers rear but ended up breaking my little impact drill flat head bit in the process, 2 of them I was actually able to break free by hand after a couple of hits with a hammer. I did try a MAPP gas torch but the drum is a giant heatsink and I don't think I could get it hot enough. I ordered a 1/2" drive flathead impact driver for my big impact wrench which should be here monday. In the mean time I will keep soaking them daily and hit them with some heat daily as well.
Drivers side rear came off today, no problem, a couple of light taps and it slid right off. Had to give it a little extra persuasion to go over the hub but no problem.
The drum was way lighter than I expected it to be. It has some pretty good wear grooves in it. Not sure how to tell if there is anything left to machine.
Pads are .2 inches or 5.3mm but also have some groove marks. From my research they are good down to 3mm but maybe it pays to just replace them. Can you buy replacements or do they need to be sent somewhere to have new linings put on?
There is a chance a brake shop can turn the drums. About all parts stores used to do it but that is fairly rare around here anyway. They can measure them and let you know what you have. You can buy rebuilt brake shoes. They aren't too expensive.
You definitely need to remove the flat head bolts. Also, if this if a '48-52 truck you need to turn the two adjusting cam bolts on the back side of the brake plate to adjust them. The larger trucks don't have the adjustable spur cylinders like pictured above.
Removing the flat head bolts are always a pain. I have an Oxy/Acetylene torch I use to head stubborn like these but I've also had luck using a canister torch with tank like you buy at the local hardware store, just takes longer.
Good catch Bob, I saw 8 lugs but it didn't register...... thanks for correcting it.
Tim
There is very little tolerance for machining the drums. If they're grooved then they might not be able to be safely turned down and you'll need replacements which are extremely hard to find. The shoes you need to have relined, as far as I know no one sells new or rebuilt shoes. I've had the ones on my F-2 relined a couple of times at a local shop which are also getting a little hard to find.
You may want to look into swapping in a newer rear axle, one from a pre'73 F-250. You'll have the advantage of having higher gears and.easier to find parts. For the front you can't install disc brakes. There a couple of places that make a kit.to.do it. I don't have the information handy but I'm sure someone will provide the name of one of the companies.
My '49 F-2 is still all stock but when the time comes that I can no longer find.parts I'll switch over.
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