Front brake/caliper help
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Front brake/caliper help
I have a 2011 f250 6.7 diesel and pull a 34 ft travel trailer. Every year I have to replace the right or the right and left front calipers because they stick. Is there anything I can do to up grade my brake system? Master cylinder, calipers? I put slotted rotors on this year hoping it would dissipate the heat.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: West Michigan
I have a 2011 f250 6.7 diesel and pull a 34 ft travel trailer. Every year I have to replace the right or the right and left front calipers because they stick. Is there anything I can do to up grade my brake system? Master cylinder, calipers? I put slotted rotors on this year hoping it would dissipate the heat.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2015
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From: Livermore Ca.
Are you using OEM parts? If you don't drive your truck when you tow then you should put synthetic brake fluid in the system. here is the brake tool I use to bleed the brakes.https://www.summitracing.com/search/...r-bleeder-kits
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From: West Michigan
more questions.....do you find yourself burning through brake pads as quickly too? If so, I'd question whether or not you have your trailer brake controller gain turned up high enough? Generally speaking when towing, a stop should feel the same is when not towing with regards to brake control. It almost sounds like your truck is doing the bulk of the braking, and trailer not doing its job....
EDIT: I tow the 5th wheel in my sig, that is 16K loaded. I just replaced my front pads/rotors from original in fall of 2020 at 85K miles. The more I think about your situation is that your trailer brakes are not doing their job, and your truck is doing all the work - mostly the front brakes.
EDIT: I tow the 5th wheel in my sig, that is 16K loaded. I just replaced my front pads/rotors from original in fall of 2020 at 85K miles. The more I think about your situation is that your trailer brakes are not doing their job, and your truck is doing all the work - mostly the front brakes.
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Thank you for the advice. Sometimes I do the work myself and sometimes I take it to garage across the street. I’ve greased the slide pins and did not make a difference. I usually get replacement calipers from advance auto parts or Napa. The trailer brake is turned up to 10 and feels like it is working. I may have to check out the trailer brakes to make sure they don’t have any grease on them.
Can you tell me if there is a big difference in brake/caliper size between the F350 and F250?
Can you tell me if there is a big difference in brake/caliper size between the F350 and F250?
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From: West Michigan
Thank you for the advice. Sometimes I do the work myself and sometimes I take it to garage across the street. I’ve greased the slide pins and did not make a difference. I usually get replacement calipers from advance auto parts or Napa. The trailer brake is turned up to 10 and feels like it is working. I may have to check out the trailer brakes to make sure they don’t have any grease on them.
Can you tell me if there is a big difference in brake/caliper size between the F350 and F250?
Can you tell me if there is a big difference in brake/caliper size between the F350 and F250?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: West Michigan
Also, you can try a test, in a parking lot going slow, hold the slider for a good 100-200 feet, enough to heat the brakes up a bit. Then stop, and put you hands on each hub. All 4 (assuming tandem axle) should be about the same temp. You could have one axle brakes not working.
You could do same test with multimeter too, measuring amps at each wheel.
You could do same test with multimeter too, measuring amps at each wheel.
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I think I did that with the trailer brake going 20 mph. And it stopped it in 20 ft I believe. I have to take the camper in to have something else looked. I’m going to have them check the brakes as well.
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2019
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From: Lowcountry
What symptoms did you notice that lead you to look at the brakes?
Like others have said check your slides. Also check the caliper slide bolts and boots for proper lube and tearing. The best type of lube is AGS SIL-Glyde or similar. I also lube the contact points between both the brake pads and the caliper piston (moving part of the caliper) and the brake pad and the caliper clamp (stationary part of the caliper).
Check your brake lines also. If the inside lining breaks down, pieces of the debris can cause the caliper to stick if the pressure isn't allowed to bleed off when you let off the brake pedal.
Like others have said check your slides. Also check the caliper slide bolts and boots for proper lube and tearing. The best type of lube is AGS SIL-Glyde or similar. I also lube the contact points between both the brake pads and the caliper piston (moving part of the caliper) and the brake pad and the caliper clamp (stationary part of the caliper).
Check your brake lines also. If the inside lining breaks down, pieces of the debris can cause the caliper to stick if the pressure isn't allowed to bleed off when you let off the brake pedal.
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I just put front rotors, brakes and calipers on 2 months ago. I’ve pulled our travel trailer 3 times. The latest trip was to TN from WV. When I got off the exit to come home, I stopped and turned right. The truck pulled to the right. I drove about 200 yards stopped, turned left and the truck pulled left. I feathered the brake and it drove straight. No issues with pulling to right or left the next morning driving the kids to school. I figure something is sticking with the brakes.
I have not lubed anything on the calipers since they are new but May this weekend. I usually do the slide pins and where the metal clip holing the brake that touches the caliper. I never thought about lubing the pistons. So I assume you push the brake to make the piston come out, lube the piston and push it back in? I will try the silicon lube you recommended. I appreciate all of the advice.
I have not lubed anything on the calipers since they are new but May this weekend. I usually do the slide pins and where the metal clip holing the brake that touches the caliper. I never thought about lubing the pistons. So I assume you push the brake to make the piston come out, lube the piston and push it back in? I will try the silicon lube you recommended. I appreciate all of the advice.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2019
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From: Lowcountry
using AGS SIL-Glyde on the pads contact points will work also but may require more frequent checking. I don't like using anti seize, specifically on the piston side because SIL-Glyde is easier on the rubber components specifically the piston boots, at least that is what I was taught (I am always open to learning more). I have used AGS Cerami-Glyde Brake Lube as it is rated for higher temps and requires less frequent checks. Both AGS products are safe for use on all parts. That being said anti seize works also I'd just keep and eye on the piston boots.
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