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Ok so new issue. Back to the electrical. The truck has been starting fine for the last week or so. This afternoon I started it up and the starter motor remained engaged. My buddy and I think the solenoid had somehow arcwelded itself to the starter side. I replaced the solenoid (again) and the truck started find. I know there is a spot on the solenoid for ignition that I dont have anything running to. Anyone got any ideas?
Ok so new issue. Back to the electrical. The truck has been starting fine for the last week or so. This afternoon I started it up and the starter motor remained engaged. My buddy and I think the solenoid had somehow arcwelded itself to the starter side. I replaced the solenoid (again) and the truck started find. I know there is a spot on the solenoid for ignition that I dont have anything running to. Anyone got any ideas?
Pete
Was the old original one ok? If it worked ok, find it and put it back on.
So I have not gone through 3 starter solenoids in a month. I was referring to the I terminal not being connected to anything, and if that's normal, great. However. What do I need to do to not kill the solenoid? Do they make heavy duty ones that I should get instead?
So I have not gone through 3 starter solenoids in a month. I was referring to the I terminal not being connected to anything, and if that's normal, great. However. What do I need to do to not kill the solenoid? Do they make heavy duty ones that I should get instead?
Hiya Pete,
I'm thoroughly confused. Are you saying you have gone through 3 starter relays in a month? Or not?
As far as the durability of the starter relay, please scroll up to post #62. Follow that link. It explains how some aftermarket brands of starter relays are pure, unadulterated junk straight out of the box. It also has some brands that have been reported to work well. We asked what brand(s) have you been trying? No answer. We're trying to help you, so please help us. If indeed you have gone through three of them in one month, I'd definitely stop buying that brand. And then please help the next guy by adding your comments to that other thread, detailing how that particular brand has been giving you grief.
The "I" terminal on your new starter relay? Don't worry about it. It was only used on models with an electric fuel pump. This extra terminal was part of a circuit that bypassed the safety shutoff for the pump, to provide fuel while cranking the starter. Most aftermarket starter relays include this terminal, and you just leave it alone if not needed. It's easier to stock one version that fits all models, versus one part number with the I terminal and another part number without.
Sorry I missed the post asking about what brand. The brand I bought off RockAuto was Durlast. It died. When I would start the truck with would keep the starter motor engaged. I went to Autozone and bought a new Duralast solenoid. This morning when I started the truck it made a clunk sound when I turned the key. So I assumed it had died as well. After ten minutes I tried the truck again, and it started right up. So I've only gone through two solenoids.
I'll definitely look at the link in post #62. Thanks!
Lately sometimes when I go to start my truck the relay will also make a clunk sound.
I may have to try it 1 or 2 more times before it will turn over and start.
My relay came with the truck and being it worked what I got the truck and felt I should keep using it because of the just you get now days.
I can also tell you all my cables are new and of large size when I was rebuilding the truck and grounds were all done at the same time.
The truck has been on the road for a year and a half so some of the connections could be not as good at this time.
1 day I will look into why this is happening, maybe before I get stuck some where LOL
I the Ebrak cables to the wheels I replaced mine as part of the rebuild and I found the springs that push the arm back in the drums and pulls the cables where to long.
I could not get the drums on as they hung below where the drum would be.
I cut them to make them shorter so I could fit the drums on but I may not have made them short enough and they now may be coil binding?
I also had issues where even with the adjustment taken up all the way, the brake would not even get close to holding, pedal went right to the floor.
Thinking I had the wrong cables I bought a 2nd set and they were the same, just as long and long springs that would need trimming if I was to use them.
So I shorten the front cable by using a short pipe nipple looping the cable through it then to the adjuster and hooked up like normal.
I still think the springs are to long inside the drums keeping the cables from pulling the arms more as the adjustment is not on vary far and the pedal is up pretty high.
So if you get new cables make sure you check if the springs are not too long.
Dave ----
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