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So... I am at a family function right now so I'll get more pics of the starter solenoid wiring with the covering removed later tonight if possible. The black wire I assumed was a ground. If the yellow (hot) wire and black wire come apart then yes the truck stops running. The red/blue wire engages the starter motor I believe. Dave, if you've got a free Saturday or Sunday in June and wanna take a trip to the boro I'd gladly appreciate it and compensate you for your time.
The black wire I assumed was a ground. If the yellow (hot) wire and black wire come apart then yes the truck stops running.
I know a lot of people are not good at wiring, but you need to think about the above for a little bit. If that black wire was a ground (Ford usually did use a black or black striped wire for a ground) and you touched it to a hot wire, you would let the smoke out of the wire. That is why I think that black wire is not stock. From what I am gathering, it must feed the ignition is some form or fashion. If I were to guess, I would think it feeds your new distributor.
You may not know, you have a aftermarket distributor and a different carb. Someone has converted this engine over and has gotten rid of the computer control, which is a good thing.
Ok so yes when the black wire and the yellow wire are disconnected the truck stops. The black wire goes to a fuse and then a red wire that comes out of the distributor. I cut down the tape and plastic around the wiring from the solenoid. Here are the attached pics. I truly don't know where the PO removed these wires from. I truly appreciate everyones help!
Pete This is the fuse the black wire is connected to This is the red wire the black wire connects to
I truly don't know where the PO removed these wires from.
A warrant has been issued for the PO's arrest, for Premeditated Crimes against Wiring. He may be entitled to legal defense from the "Rip Out All That Pollution Crap" Club, an exceedingly non-exclusive organization. They will accept literally anybody for membership. All you have to do is start yanking out parts and snipping wires indiscriminately, and you're accepted as long as you have no idea what you're doing.
As you are no doubt aware, you've got a real mess on your hands, but the conversion to a pre-computerized works model well IF done properly. Don't let me scare you too much, as you are in the competent hands of others who can walk you through the process correctly, and you will get there.
Stock wiring diagrams are here, which you may find helpful to decipher what has been butchered:
Over on the driver's side fender in all those wires, see if you can find a white wire with a blue stripe. The colors get faded over time and are hard to make out, but if you find it, get yourself a testlight or meter and see if it has voltage when you turn the keyswitch to run, it should. If you find this wire, tie it to the black wire going to the distributor. That will fix that. You should then be able to turn the key to run, and then go out and touch the red/blue to start and it will start and keep running till you turn the key off. This will be phase one of the rehab.
Wait a minute. That white wire in the picture below. Does it have blue dots or a blue stripe? If it does, check it for power when the key is in run and start. If it has power, tie the black wire to this white/blue wire and see if it will run with the keyswitch. It won't start but it should run and shut off with the keyswitch.
Thanks Dave for stepping up.
I know I could figure it out if it was in front of me and could see the whole picture, just a little hard doing it this way for me.
The only thing I can see being an issue checking for power on the the white / blue wire is if he is getting any power inside the cab after seeing the mess of wires over at the solenoid
I think I only make out 1 fuse link and there should be 2 more IIRC so I dont know if he will get power or not?
I can also see once the right wires go where they need to go and everything works as it should you will need to get rid of the wire nuts.
They work good in a buildings but not on autos!
The PO should not needed to do anything over by the solenoid ...... think SWAT should be sent out the the PO ASAP!
Dave ----
Thanks Dave for stepping up.
I know I could figure it out if it was in front of me and could see the whole picture, just a little hard doing it this way for me.
The only thing I can see being an issue checking for power on the the white / blue wire is if he is getting any power inside the cab after seeing the mess of wires over at the solenoid
I think I only make out 1 fuse link and there should be 2 more IIRC so I dont know if he will get power or not?
I can also see once the right wires go where they need to go and everything works as it should you will need to get rid of the wire nuts.
They work good in a buildings but not on autos!
The PO should not needed to do anything over by the solenoid ...... think SWAT should be sent out the the PO ASAP!
Dave ----
I think he still has a bunch of the computer wiring still in there. Not sure if he going to want to start pulling that out after he gets it running or not.
I was kind of wondering that as we have not see a full engine bay picture or 2.
What does concern me is I only see 1 wire on the + of the solenoid and it looks to have a fuse link, what happen to the others?
Also is he getting power inside the truck as its power also comes from the solenoid area.
Dave ----
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