When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
While rebuilding the drum brakes on my F100, I noticed the old wheel studs were loose, and they had been tack welded in place by a previous owner. They must have been driven loose, because all the holes are different sizes. I am thinking the best way to fix this is to drill them all to a larger size on a drill press and buy larger studs.
A couple of questions
1. It looks like the larger studs have a head on them that will not quite sit flush in the recessed area at the back of the hub. Could this will cause issues if I leave it this way?
2. I’ve read that some wheel studs require the hole to be slightly chamfered. ARP says .025”. Is that just for ARP studs or if that is all studs?
This is turning out to be a much larger project than anticipated (isn’t this always the case though?), but I want to make sure I’m fixing this the correct way.
--redrill yours in the correct size with new OEM sized studs. (Redrill between the existing pattern)
I don't like you existing axles due to the wear, possible "work hardening" caused by wiggling studs, and the welding which could have caused some issues with the temper of the metal. If you redrill them, you will have your studs in "fresh" metal and may sidestep those problems. If they exist. Maybe.
New axles, you step away from the problem.
Thanks guys. My first thought was new hubs too, but then I realized that they don't make them anymore. I get so spoiled with these companies that remanufacture everything. If I did get new hubs it would have to be from a junkyard. I'll maybe do some more digging and see if I can find a pair of them somewhere.
My other thought was to just do a disc brake upgrade in the front, but given that I already bought everything to rebuild the drums I would rather just stick with that. Plus some of those kits can be close to $1,000 which is more than I bought the truck for haha.
I have most of the parts on a shelf, Both I-beams, spindles with new king pins, radius arms all powder coated. Rebuilt calipers possibly the dust shields and the original rotors too. They are off of a 73 F100. PM if interested. I have a 4X4 project and do not need these items anymore.
Thanks Lizardman1. I tried to PM you but I think I’m too new and don’t have that ability yet. I’m going to check out a junkyard this weekend if weather cooperates. I will keep this in mind though if I strike out. The only downside is I’m thinking that shipping is going to be quite high given the weight of those items.
I converted a 65 and 66 F250 to late 70's discs and both times the hard part to find was the frame bracket for the hose. The other thing is the steering linkage is different and will need to be upgraded including the pitman arm. So even though you get all the parts get ready to buy new calipers, pads, bushings, tie rods, brake hoses, king pins, bearings, seals new master, booster, proportioning valve, and get the rotors turned. Not to discourage you, it is worth it, $1500-2000 is what it takes to stay with Ford parts and not use a chevy parts kit and have a hard time with replacement parts.
I converted a 65 and 66 F250 to late 70's discs and both times the hard part to find was the frame bracket for the hose. The other thing is the steering linkage is different and will need to be upgraded including the pitman arm. So even though you get all the parts get ready to buy new calipers, pads, bushings, tie rods, brake hoses, king pins, bearings, seals new master, booster, proportioning valve, and get the rotors turned. Not to discourage you, it is worth it, $1500-2000 is what it takes to stay with Ford parts and not use a chevy parts kit and have a hard time with replacement parts.
Hmm....that's a good point. Well when you put it that way it makes me think I might almost be better off to just buy the LMC kit for $769 and be done with it.
Hmm....that's a good point. Well when you put it that way it makes me think I might almost be better off to just buy the LMC kit for $769 and be done with it.
That's what I meant by the chevy reference. Those aren't Ford parts. Maybe someone will chime in on how they worked out for them.
Wheel Studs
