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I believe there is a idle stop screw to set the idle. You could set it at 1500 rpm, and then you will need a little more than 2 to 1 overdrive to step up the rpms on the generator. I am assuming it needs 3600 rpm for 60 hertz?
Probably set the idle screw at 600 for start up. Then make a block to hold it at 1200 once warm. If 3600 RPM is needed on the generator go 3 to 1 on the drive.
1200 is what many mechanics recommend as a minimum operating RPM on the 6.9. Shouldn't be lugging and building carbon at 1200 RPM.
I believe there is a idle stop screw to set the idle. You could set it at 1500 rpm, and then you will need a little more than 2 to 1 overdrive to step up the rpms on the generator. I am assuming it needs 3600 rpm for 60 hertz?
I used to be a volunteer fireman. Our pumper truck had a pull out throttle adjustment that was set to the proper rpms to drive the pump efficiently. The pump was driven off a PTO.
You'll be driving your generator by the belt pulley system sounds like. If you're going directly to the engine with your drive pulley you will want to be able to decouple the generator in some way, perhaps with an idler pulley? You'll want to start and warm up your engine at normal idle speed to reduce cold start wear. Once the engine is warmed up then have a way to raise the engine rpms to the level needed to drive the generator. You'll have some figgering to do with the drive and generator pulley sizes. I would try to run the engine at as low an RPM that you can to be fuel efficient. I don't think you'll have issues with lugging the engine but I don't know anything about your generator either. Pulley selection will dictate idle speed needed as well.
Originally Posted by Franklin2
I believe there is a idle stop screw to set the idle. You could set it at 1500 rpm, and then you will need a little more than 2 to 1 overdrive to step up the rpms on the generator. I am assuming it needs 3600 rpm for 60 hertz?
Originally Posted by BigBlue2
Probably set the idle screw at 600 for start up. Then make a block to hold it at 1200 once warm. If 3600 RPM is needed on the generator go 3 to 1 on the drive.
1200 is what many mechanics recommend as a minimum operating RPM on the 6.9. Shouldn't be lugging and building carbon at 1200 RPM.
Originally Posted by matthewq4b
Ya no that has zero chance of working.
The generator head is 10KW and does need to operate at 3600RPM even if its under load. The literature says 20HP required and I bet these engines exceed that at 1200RPM. I was thinking I need a manual choke cable to set the throttle once its warmed up. I like the 1200 Engine RPM & 3:1 plan.
The generator head is 10KW and does need to operate at 3600RPM even if its under load. The literature says 20HP required and I bet these engines exceed that at 1200RPM. I was thinking I need a manual choke cable to set the throttle once its warmed up. I like the 1200 Engine RPM & 3:1 plan.
Yeah, 170 hp at 3300 rpms. I wouldn't be beyond trying less than 1200. Maybe 1000 with a 3.6 to one.
If you can find an rpm hp chart for the 6.9 you could dial in on rpm for 20+ hp and run that ratio. If it was straight line, it's not, you'd have 50 hp at 1000 rpm
Yeah, 170 hp at 3300 rpms. I wouldn't be beyond trying less than 1200. Maybe 1000 with a 3.6 to one.
If you can find an rpm hp chart for the 6.9 you could dial in on rpm for 20+ hp and run that ratio. If it was straight line, it's not, you'd have 50 hp at 1000 rpm
Does anyone have a HP chart for the 6.9? Does it make 30hp at idle?
The generator head is 10KW and does need to operate at 3600RPM even if its under load. The literature says 20HP required and I bet these engines exceed that at 1200RPM. I was thinking I need a manual choke cable to set the throttle once its warmed up. I like the 1200 Engine RPM & 3:1 plan.
You will need a governor for the throttle of the engine.
The generator's speed will need to be held constant for all conditions of load imposed on the generator in order to maintain the correct frequency and voltage output, the engine speed MUST be held constant.
You can not just slap a throttle lock on it and expect it to work, cause as soon as you load up the Generator the engine RPM will drop, dropping the voltage output and lowering the frequency. Yes even the 6.9L's RPM will change between the gen being loaded and not being loaded
You will need a governor to ensure the engine RPM is held constant regardless of generator load.
And since you will be likly be gearing up to spin the gen-set at the correct 3600 RPM the HP needed to drive will double compared to a direct drive situation.
So you will need a controller, a throttle actuator, and an engine/genset speed sensor for the controller.
The whole works is available aftermarket for not much money. Yes, Chinesium but really the only place I am aware of that you can buy it all without breaking the bank The quality of these units is decent also, they are complete trash..
Also, you do not care about the HP in this application but the torque since you will be up gearing up, to minimize prime mover RPM fluctuations with varying loads.
Peak torque in the 6.9 is 318ft lbs @1400 RPM and Peak HP is 170 HP @ 3300 RPM.
Also, an engine's peak efficiency will coincide with peak torque.
Now the advantage of the 6.9 (and the 7.3 for that matter) peak torque and peak efficiency is almost exactly half of 3600 RPM (1300 RPM). So a double win peak torque and peak efficiency is basically half of 3600 RPM. So, I would drive the gen at 2:1 ratio from the engine this will be 1300 RPM on the motor almost peak efficiency and torque, also since this will just about just be off idle, fuel consumption will be greatly reduced over a 1 to 1 situation.
You will need a governor for the throttle of the engine.
The generator's speed will need to be held constant for all conditions of load imposed on the generator in order to maintain the correct frequency and voltage output, the engine speed MUST be held constant.
You can not just slap a throttle lock on it and expect it to work, cause as soon as you load up the Generator the engine RPM will drop, dropping the voltage output and lowering the frequency. Yes even the 6.9L's RPM will change between the gen being loaded and not being loaded
You will need a governor to ensure the engine RPM is held constant regardless of generator load.
And since you will be likly be gearing up to spin the gen-set at the correct 3600 RPM the HP needed to drive will double compared to a direct drive situation.
So you will need a controller, a throttle actuator, and an engine/genset speed sensor for the controller.
The whole works is available aftermarket for not much money. Yes, Chinesium but really the only place I am aware of that you can buy it all without breaking the bank The quality of these units is decent also, they are complete trash..
Also, you do not care about the HP in this application but the torque since you will be up gearing up, to minimize prime mover RPM fluctuations with varying loads.
Peak torque in the 6.9 is 318ft lbs @1400 RPM and Peak HP is 170 HP @ 3300 RPM.
Also, an engine's peak efficiency will coincide with peak torque.
Now the advantage of the 6.9 (and the 7.3 for that matter) peak torque and peak efficiency is almost exactly half of 3600 RPM (1300 RPM). So a double win peak torque and peak efficiency is basically half of 3600 RPM. So, I would drive the gen at 2:1 ratio from the engine this will be 1300 RPM on the motor almost peak efficiency and torque, also since this will just about just be off idle, fuel consumption will be greatly reduced over a 1 to 1 situation.
Good information! I was thinking the plethora of torque/power this V8 makes, loading the generator would be like a fly landing on a zebra. Knowing peak torque & efficiency at 1400MRPM is most excellent, Thank you!
So I gets to thinking, after reading between the lines in this thread.
A massive V8 diesel seems like MAJOR overkill to drive a 10KW generator. Sure, it will do it easily, but you will have a massively unwieldy setup when you're done. I looked at portable 10KW generators and those are something you could easily maneuver around a jobsite by yourself, haul in the bed of a pickup, or stow in the corner of a garage. Seems like you're creating a physically massive combo with a relatively small output compared to its size.
What will you be powering? Something very simple (read: non-sensitive) such as incandescent lighting only at a remote jobsite? Or backup power for a house, complete with delicate electronics? The intended usage will determine how critical speed control and voltage regulation will need to be.
How will the drive belt(s) be arranged? 10KW seems a bit much for a single belt, but am unsure about the calculations. All of the portable units I saw online were direct drive. If using belt drive, you may need multiple belts, adding to the expense for custom pulleys, etc.
You will need a governor for the throttle of the engine.
The generator's speed will need to be held constant for all conditions of load imposed on the generator in order to maintain the correct frequency and voltage output, the engine speed MUST be held constant.
You can not just slap a throttle lock on it and expect it to work, cause as soon as you load up the Generator the engine RPM will drop, dropping the voltage output and lowering the frequency. Yes even the 6.9L's RPM will change between the gen being loaded and not being loaded
You will need a governor to ensure the engine RPM is held constant regardless of generator load.
And since you will be likly be gearing up to spin the gen-set at the correct 3600 RPM the HP needed to drive will double compared to a direct drive situation.
So you will need a controller, a throttle actuator, and an engine/genset speed sensor for the controller.
The whole works is available aftermarket for not much money. Yes, Chinesium but really the only place I am aware of that you can buy it all without breaking the bank The quality of these units is decent also, they are complete trash..
Also, you do not care about the HP in this application but the torque since you will be up gearing up, to minimize prime mover RPM fluctuations with varying loads.
Peak torque in the 6.9 is 318ft lbs @1400 RPM and Peak HP is 170 HP @ 3300 RPM.
Also, an engine's peak efficiency will coincide with peak torque.
Now the advantage of the 6.9 (and the 7.3 for that matter) peak torque and peak efficiency is almost exactly half of 3600 RPM (1300 RPM). So a double win peak torque and peak efficiency is basically half of 3600 RPM. So, I would drive the gen at 2:1 ratio from the engine this will be 1300 RPM on the motor almost peak efficiency and torque, also since this will just about just be off idle, fuel consumption will be greatly reduced over a 1 to 1 situation.
Yup my error. Was working with a 4" driven pulley and an 11" drive so two 1/2" belts would be enough to drive the gen and somehow got numbers screwed around in my head. That's what happens when you do not check your work like a fool.
As to intent the unit should power my whole house during an outage. I have UPS power on sensitive electric devices such as router and computer intranet. The rest of the items are lights, pumps, freezers, & fridge. Not sure if the Heatpump would take me over my 8KW RMS so that is not part of the current plan.
I expect to use a adjustable 2-groove sheave driving A belts. The pulley and belts are readily available for around $50-100.
When I went to build my generator (a few years ago) new small Diesel engines were $3000. I got the truck for $1000 and made a HD pickup bed trailer out of the back half (the trailer is awesomeness). The engine and front half were for my generator. Initially was intending on setting up dual fuel and run WVO as much as possible. Since then, the biodiesel movement has dried up the WVO sources and I have just decided to move ahead on this project to get it functioning and outta my shop! This is set up so I can tow it with my tractor or truck.
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