Hey FordTruckNoob: Does it look like this? Finally finished wrapping up everything myself, now have to put it all back.

 

@bsiliani , mine are worse because they're all loose wires with no conduit around them. Kudos on taking the time to remove the console and doing the job right. I should do that too but I have been procrastinating.

 

Looking really good @bsiliani ! You had an idea, formulated a course of action and went for it. I commend you on your effort and passion to achieve your goals.

I look forward to the next time we meet in person and you can show us all of the improvements you have made since the last time. Maybe at a PA GTG...

We will try to have some cherry moonshine on site prior to your arrival this time.

 

SOUS, you'll have to source that shine down south as I don't see that stocked often enough around here.As for the problem OP has regarding gauge dimming here is another spitball at solving the problem.Why not wire an illumination wire directly to gauges and ADD A DIMMER switch.Hide it somewhere and you can manually adjust at your hearts desire. If you don't like it, remove it and no harm no foul.I would recommend a 1amp online fuse just to be safe.

 

Hey Bob, shine is easily located down here. We will be sure to have some on hand if/when you and Stella decide to visit the beautiful Appalachian mountains again.

As for Bbslider001 and his project. I suspect he didn't show the Ford wiring diagrams to his supervisor because if he had his supervisor would have said what we have been telling him.

I'm even willing to speak to his supervisor on the phone in order to hear his thoughts and help him see how to accomplish the task. Since it sounds like the supervisor is familiar with the language and how to read a wiring diagram, the conversation will likely be less than 60 seconds. Then, he could show Bbslider001 in person with a hard or soft copy of the diagram we discussed in a place conducive to mentoring.

That is OK though. Sometimes we come up with an idea and we research it and during that period of research we loose interest or feel it may be too "challenging". He has moved on I believe, but this information will be here for anyone to learn from if they have the same or similar idea about how to modify the dimming function.

All of the details are there and I wish them the best of luck.

 

@FordTruckNoob

Leonard, based on your comment here, you may be a prime candidate to validate PWDM voltage output signal to the radio connector.

If you can test the voltage signal with ignition on/headlights off and again with ignition on/headlights on that would be a big help.

Thank you sir, in advance.

If you decide to forego the Android head unit, I will check the PWDM function this fall when I am taking care if the annual PMS flare up.

That way, the loop can be closed on this thread for future readers instead of being a sinkhole of specifications and diagrams from Ford.

 

Okay. It might be awhile though. The wife wants an air fryer to replace the busted toaster oven.

 

My mom bought an air frier many years ago and loved it. She would say "you guys want me to crisp up some fries in my air frier thing..."

No worries on the time schedule. This information will be here until the end of the internet. If I get to it first, then I will post the findings and voltage test results of the radio connector.

The overhead console and other accessories will be exactly the same as they are on the same circuit, so only testing of the radio connector is required.

 

@Shovelheadrob has taken a few moments out of his exciting day of working on his new to him F-550 Fontaine Classic Traveler (seen below) in order to answer the remaining, single question of the voltage output/change coming from the Pulse Width Dimmer Module (PWDM) on the illumination circuit for the overhead console module (OCM) and radio.



In order to quote Rob directly, I have pasted his findings below.

Quote source: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19965457

So, it appears my guestimate of the voltage dropping to ~9v with the headlights or running lights switched on and commanded by the PWDM was off by about 3.5v. I suspected the PWDM would drop the voltage to about 9v, but it appears the PWDM drops the voltage of the illumination circuits by .15 - .2v based on the findings from Rob. This makes more sense now that I am thinking about it and indicates that the electronic devices are very specific about their voltages on the illumination circuits and a simple .15 - .2v drop from the PWDM results in a lower display/illumination.

Well, now we know for sure how to keep the display/illumination bright. We know without a doubt what the PWDM provides in the way of an electrical signal that acts as somewhat of a switch.

I hope that the efforts from the FTE community in answering the questions originally posed here will help someone in the future.

 

Found an old thread, this post will help with the overhead console lights. No worries on the dead link in the first post, the pic is at the end.

 

Thanks David!

tjc transport in post #32 in the link described exactly what I noted above as my "theory" on how to allow bbslider001 to accomplish his goal. It seems if he had been more proficient with the search function (very lacking at times, I agree) before posting this, he may have found his solution before talking to his supervisor and losing hope due to some false information.

Despite getting the voltage output wrong, the wiring change I suggested was correct. This change would also work for the OCM as they are on the same 12v and illumination circuits.

Quote from tjc transport is below:
Quote source: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...l#post16057853

 

David, thanks for the quick reference. Much appreciated! This will give me something to look into this coming weekend.