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hi guys, recently the wiring out of the pigtail on my headlight switch all fried and since, i've had the dash out, patching the wires. furthermore, i found the cause of the problem, one of my marker lights i put on my flatbed had a wire that shorted against the flatbed, and thus wreaking havoc throughout the entire circuit.
anyway, i've got a haynes manual, and i've been studying up on the wiring diagram, but the problem i have is i can't figure out which wire goes to which pin on the headlight switch. the diagram in the haynes gives the wire color and destination, but not where it goes on the switch. if someone could maybe point me in the right direction, it would be very helpful.
The marker light has nothing to do with the headlights. The marker lights have their own contacts in the switch, and their own fuse separate from the headlights. Anyway, I don't have a wire location chart either. Your new pigtail you bought from the store or the junkyard does not have the wires in it already?
The wires melting on the headlight switch is a common problem with Fords, and is caused by undersized factory wiring and loose connections at the plug.
All of them get hot, but the marker circuit goes to the switch on a tan/white, and leaves on a brown wire, and the tan/white wire has been known to burn completely in two on numerous occasions.
The headlight switch connections for the headlights will start getting warm and melt the connector, and then it will start overheating the circuit breaker inside the switch for the headlights, and the headlights will start blinking on and off.
u got it, Dave. it was the brown wire that i spliced my marker lights into and those wires were the ones that shorted, causing the brown wire and the tan/white wire to fry at the headlight switch. the heat damaged all the wires b/c of the tight fit of the wires under the dash. however, i couldn't find an aftermarket replacement or a used replacement at the time. so i soldered in wires to patch the harness and am reuseing the orginal pigtail as it wasn't melted in the ordeal. i've been playing "musical wire locations" all afternoon trying to figure out what goes where, and i think i'm pretty close, but i can't seem to find where the blue wire for the dash board/ instrument panel lighting goes. in one spot, the dash lights stay on constantly, with no dimmer and in others, they will be off in the off position, on w/ dimmer in the park light position, and then back to nothing in the headlights on position.
on the headlight switch, each pin has a label such as "B", "P", "D1", "D2", and so forth. should i assume it's as simple as B = battery, H = headlight selector, so on?
the tan/white wire comes from the alternator to supply power to the circuit. therefor, under normal conditions, the wires would usually get warm, but not enough to cause any damage. but since the brown wire was shorted to ground, it started pull too many amps for the little wires to handle, thus more heat than normal, and a subsuquent burning of the wire. in my case, i nearly had an electrical fire on my hands.
the tan wire also ties in w/ a black/orange wire at the alternator, which i believe supplies juice to the headlights, and the tan to the marker/interior lights...
like i say, idk y the manual wouldn't tell a guy which wire goes where. i can understand it's not a thing the usually goes south, but when it does, it's kindof important to kno...
The tan/white wire goes to the fuse in the fuse box labeled "marker lights" or "exterior lights" or something like that.
If something bad happens, the fuse will blow. It will not blow though, from the wire getting hot long term, which over time basically "cooks" it till it fails.
The headlights on these early trucks are not fused, and do go to the wiring over by the solenoid, but they do have a fusible link in that area, and a circuit breaker inside the headlight switch.
The headlight switch is not one switch. It is several switches combined together which are activated by one ****.
ya, see in the haynes i have it showed that tan wire in one diagram as going to the regulator, and in the other, it showed it going to the fuse box like u say. i got down there and checked again and what do ya kno? there's that infamous tan wire again. it's confusing diagrams like this that make the mechanic's job all that much more difficult imo, but o well, i'm done w/ it for tonight, i'll have to keep looking for a better diagram tomorrow.
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