South Florida Engine Rebuilder Question
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2020
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South Florida Engine Rebuilder Question
Engine runs just fine - no noises, no smoke to speak of, just leaks like a sieve and is ticking off the wife. I'll be pulling the engine to do the rear main seal, and it would be a good time to pull the heads and have hardened valve seals installed so no more lead additive. My question is: should I be taking the block in somewhere to be evaluated and micced? I'm just a little afraid that if I "wave a flag at the bull" and take it somewhere, that they'll be happy to find something wrong with it. Or do I just clean up the block decks, degrease the outside, replace all the seals, gaskets and freeze plugs I can, and throw the reconditioned heads back on? If the correct answer is that I really should take the block in, does anyone know somewhere good in South Florida for the heads, block or both?
Thanks in advance,
Geoff
Thanks in advance,
Geoff
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2020
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Likes: 8
Prone...so a fairly good chance? Operationally, how would that manifest itself...oil leaks or burning oil and would the block have to be completely disassembled to do the mag particle test?
Thanks for chiming in.
Geoff
Thanks for chiming in.
Geoff
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 112
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They crack up there because they have a thin casting. If they freeze up that’s usually when they crack.
As far as showing itself, I would think it would show up in the oil having water in it if it was real bad. I read somewhere that it can actually move the piston walls and make them out of round. Another spot that cracks is above the starter I read.
You could see for yourself by taking the intake of and if there is rust up the or water, then pretty good chance it’s cracked. Other than that you have to take it apart to mag particle test it. It’s tested by fine metal particles so you probably want to wash that crap out of the motor.
As far as showing itself, I would think it would show up in the oil having water in it if it was real bad. I read somewhere that it can actually move the piston walls and make them out of round. Another spot that cracks is above the starter I read.
You could see for yourself by taking the intake of and if there is rust up the or water, then pretty good chance it’s cracked. Other than that you have to take it apart to mag particle test it. It’s tested by fine metal particles so you probably want to wash that crap out of the motor.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
How many miles are on the engine? I would do a compression test before taking it apart. This can give you an idea of the the condition of the engine. Take all spark plugs out to do it. Engine should be warm when this is done. Do a "dry" test first and record all eight numbers. Then one by one squirt a few squirts of engine oil in the spark plug hole. This will temporarily seal the piston rings. This is called a "wet" test. Then do a compression test again. If the wet test gives you higher compression numbers the rings are worn. That would answer you question about rebuilding or not.
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Mountain Pass
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Odometer shows 28k but the odometer has probably flipped. Compression is low-ish, but consistent with all cylinders between 110-120psi with oil nudging each one up a few psi. Kinda like a no-mans-land condition - could do it, could leave it.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
360s were low compression engines. So 110-120 not bad. Especially because they are all so close. Anything past 20% difference points toward a rebuild.
Note, I just saw an add today that Lucas makes a high Zinc oil meant for classic vehicles. Like ours.
Note, I just saw an add today that Lucas makes a high Zinc oil meant for classic vehicles. Like ours.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2020
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So heads are in my preferred and trusted head shop...some of the valves had definitely been receding for a while, so this will be good maintenance - unfortunately they don't do blocks. Looking at my short block - I've decided to do (have done) a disassemble, clean and measure, hone, bore and reassemble. One shop insisted that if I use them, that they convert it to hydraulic and roller tappets because the original tappets don't survive with modern oils...ok, but didn't buy into it. I'm using another shop that seems to know the engine and actually have a facility and not just some machines under a tarp roof. In anticipation of the phone call of doom, what are the preferred replacement parts for valves, pistons, rings, oil pump, water pump, etc? I'm taking it that the ones listed on ebay should not be purchased...?
Thanks,
Geoff
Thanks,
Geoff
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 633
Likes: 84
From: AL
IMHO, there’s nothing wrong with flat tappet hydraulics, provided you do proper break in, and run good oil. I for one just can’t justify the cost for roller components. As for basic components, several companies make kits that are customizable depending on what you need. Last engine I built I used the local warehouse of these guys. Online Engine Parts Store | Internal Engine Parts Group | Engine Parts Center Kit had speed pro pistons, King Bearings, Mahle rings, Melling oil pump, Fel-Pro gaskets and seals, etc. Opted for a kit without a cam as I was supplying my own selection. Yes, I would tend to shy away from eBay. I have had good experienced with rock auto as you can select the brand of part you are looking for. Good prices and very reasonable shipping as long as all the parts come out of the same warehouse.
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