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Front hp 44 435 trans 235tcase and 9" rear is a great combo for light to medium sizs off road rigs running 37" and smaller tires.
IMO that set up is under engineered for 37" tires especially if you start building more HP into the motor. The NP435 and the 9" will handle it stock but the stock U-Joints, Front axles, single piston caliper brakes, hub bearings, and 5 stud wheels will leave you walking out of the back country sooner or later. Can it be modified to hold up? Yes with enough $
Gee, I have never heard anyone express the opinion that FoMoCo (or any other OEM) under-engineers anything....
Curious what my layout book calls out for that angle.
I'll have a look.
I weighed my jeep 4220 before having coilovers valved
I can't afford to break stuff at work or play. I do pack enough tools fix most things on the trail. Anyways. I really have alot of respect forvthe hp44 ,specially the old ones pwith lots of axle tube to fab brackets on
Gee, I have never heard anyone express the opinion that FoMoCo (or any other OEM) under-engineers anything....
Curious what my layout book calls out for that angle.
I'll have a look.
I said "IMO that set up is under engineered for 37" tires especially if you start building more HP into the motor." We have almost at least 40 years of field testing to prove my point. The verdict is in. Does it depend on whose driving ? You bet
OK, then I'll express that opinion. Let's take ignition switches as an example...
Or fuel tanks..
Or tire inflation...
I get it now. I'm a little slow some times This "Gee, I have never heard anyone express the opinion that FoMoCo (or any other OEM) under-engineers anything....
Curious what my layout book calls out for that angle." was you being sarcastic. On a side note if you want someone to understand without a doubt ,in internet speak or texting" a sentence. Then you type " s/ " at the end of the sentence. Yes I'm a Ford field tester ..
You can see how this effects the drive shaft angles and for those lifting their trucks as well as crossover and high steer steering the drive shaft angle becomes something that requires careful consideration.
Do a heavy chamfer on the joint bringing the cut tube back together after welding leaking portionportion need to do some work removing rust and planning plug weld locations to ensure they're tied into solid material.
Might also coat the rusted axle tube in weld through primer before you cover it all up.
Im alittle lost about what this topic is about. I think a rusted out dana60 ?
@Evan76
Topic was orig. Ford 8.8 assy. (not factory) that rusted at tube junction with u-bolt.
Per links that redroad provided this is not uncommon with these old trucks
In the spring I was pondering how to fix this situation. And I didn't fully
understand the need to match gear ratio's between F & R.
The u-bolt plates are rusted badly and I had bought a new set.
I found an 8.8 assy. that didn't match / won't work.
Need to move truck to fix. Pulled fuel tank intending to drain, found it had rusted as well.
A sleeve would work if I could find correct diameter. Then I would need matching spring perch
dia. to fit sleeve.
First I will re-search yard options, for now.
I think everyone should check axle tubes, especially in rust belt and places that
have dirt roads treated with chloride which is worse than road salt.
the barnes hw looks to be roughly 3 times more robust
than the aftermarket product I now have
the frame on my truck is looking robust
it's nice to see the rear frame with the bed off
kinda fun to work with too.
am thinking a nice rear end investment
would help keep this old thang on the road
I was set to buy a fuel tank from the dpn site
i have the '21 p&a cat.
they're asking a bit more than $10 more online
than in cat. for prev. $125 tank
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On a side note if you want someone to understand without a doubt ,in internet speak or texting" a sentence. Then you type " s/ " at the end of the sentence. 
