OK, Now found another post saying that the noise captured in video can be caused by low voltage on the relays in the fuse box. So maybe the GEM, maybe not. Thoughts??

 

What voltage are your batteries reading? How are the battery cable connections? Are you getting good power to the 2 fuse panels?

 

12.38 V and 12.42 V. All the battery grounds are tight on batteries and block though the connectors at the neg battery cables are after market clamps (but no visible corrosion). I do have the negative cables on the 2002 I will go ahead switch over just in case. As I recall, pos cables have a different configuration and current ones on 2000 have OEM clamp connectors so I will leave them alone. I have not checked the voltage coming into the fuse panels. How do I access the input feed wires?

 

Batteries are a little low but that's probably from all the testing. Charge them up.

Not sure on the best or easiest way to access fuse panel inputs without taking the panels loose

I also believe our 2000 model trucks have a fusible link in the power wiring. Again working from my phone im not much help. Maybe @Sous can look up a couple of wire prints for us if he gets time.

 

There are differences in the harness between a 2002MY and a 2000MY truck, but the main battery cables may be the same, I am not sure of that. There are some fused links as well, but they are for the starting system and GP system if I am remember correctly. I would have to review the diagrams again to be sure.

The newer models have a positive terminal on the driver wheel well under the air box, but you said you used the 2000MY body, so I would not suspect that.

There are several grounds in the engine bay, specifically one for the fuse box under the hood right near the fuse box. You can remove the cover toward the front of the under hood fuse box and check for power at the lug. You can do the same for the under dash fuse box, but it is a bit more difficult to get to. If you don't have power at the lugs, the fuses themselves will not receive power.

I can absolutely help with the diagrams, but we need to try and narrow down your search a bit so that I am not attempting to upload several diagrams. I can look for something related to the fuse boxes and power distribution though in the mean time.

If you have a PC, you may be interested in using the Ford Service Manual yourself. If so, post here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ce-manual.html

Keep talking to us and keep us updated, you will get it eventually.

 

Thanks Sous. My google-fu is very weak on my phone and id really like to help him solve this. Seems like it should not be too difficult.

 

I'm the same way on my phone or tablet.

I agree, he/we are missing something that is simple. I will keep after this thread in hopes for a resolution or the opportunity to provide advice or documentation.

Thank you for tagging me as I had missed this one before hand and am interested in what the fix action will be.

 

Don't know if this will help... but 2000 harness utilizes GEM, 2002 replaces GEM with VSM (Vehicle Security Module). Not sure if 2002 engine/body electronics can function correctly through 2000 GEM.

 

Had a similar thing with a Chrysler van 30 years ago. Would just go dead while driving, etc...etc... After numerous visits to shops, a friend walked up one day.... says, I bet I know what your problem is. He pulled on the negative battery cable, and sparks went everywhere.... turned out after a year of searching.... the main ground to block was loose. Costs me a lot of $$$$$ to find that fix.

Rule out the small stupid stuff, before you declare the most expensive parts are to blame.

 

To tack on to this, add grounds from everything else (i.e. body, transmission, alternator, etc etc) to connect to the frame. The factory grounds alone are barely adequate. Then when they corrode/come loose/break, all sorts of weird things happen.

 

If a bad ground is suspected an easy way to test is to add another ground path. I have a few lengths of 4 gauge battery cables for this. Add a solid new ground and if that is no help, the OEM ground is good.

 

OK everyone, time to give you an update. Sunday I had to disassemble, move, and re-assemble a large wooden playset for the grandkids so I lost the whole day and Monday got consumed with work. I took yesterday off and focused on the truck. Going back to the simplest and most basic thing suggested, I started with the grounds. As I mentioned before, the battery cables on this truck have aftermarket clamps and while they don't appear corroded, I decided to go after the Easy button. The connections were all good and tight, however, I went ahead and pulled the negative battery cables off of the 2002 (same design) and put them in the 2000. I also aggressively cleaned all contact points on the block, frame, and body. Wouldn't you know it, everything powered up and the truck started and ran fine.

It was answered prayer and a big shout out to the FTE community. A huge thanks to all of you who offered advice and insights. Though I thought I might end up there, I was glad I did not have to go the GEM route. You saved the day and got her rolling again.

 

Well that is great news. Congrats and at the best possible cost $0.00. Be sure to stick around and enjoy our little community and we're here if you need us again.