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Dealt with this problem last year, and am getting pretty sick of it. The orings on my injectors never seem to seat and seal right. Last year, my truck began bucking around and cutting out, which i discovered to be a bad injector oring. While screwing around under the hood today, i accidentally bumped and injector, and it spun an 1/8th of a turn. Upon trying to start it afterwards, it cranked but would not start. Realizing that i had bumped it and somehow lost fuel pressure, i turned the key a few times to prime the system and it fired up. Truck began its usual routine again... bucking, idling at 1500 rpm and back to normal. Pulling the fuel rails off and replacing and lubing up orings with silicone is becoming exhausting, along with the fact that I cannot drive the damn truck for more than a month without something going wrong with it. Has anyone else had this issue??
Quit using silicone lubricant/grease for one. Ford speciacally says NOT to use silicone grease on the O-rings as it may plug the injectors and will degrade the O-rings.
Just use some motor oil to lubricate them before install.
Two issues here I suspect. One is not using the correct OEM o rings and the other is using silicone. The o rings are supposed to be lubricated with light multi purpose oil on install. Most o ring kits have Buna rubber o rings and not the Vinton o rings there is also a distinct size difference between the original Bosch and the aftermarket ones.
I just went through a bout with my injector o-rings. I had my injectors serviced at the Injector Doctor. I got hem back with blue o-rings. These o-rings were very easily pinched, torn, chunks popped off. Of course I then had leaks. Sadly, one was under the upper air intake. I replaced them with OEM that I had gotten at the Ford dealer twenty years ago. Much better o-rings. Motor oil for lube.
Just swapped out the 8 on the driver side rail, which seems to be the problem one, used oil. Seems to be better, except on the ride back home it might have held the idle a bit high in between shifts. Would this still be a symptem of an oring? Could have been my imagination, i’ll have to drive it around town a bit more to know for sure
Just swapped out the 8 on the driver side rail, which seems to be the problem one, used oil. Seems to be better, except on the ride back home it might have held the idle a bit high in between shifts. Would this still be a symptem of an oring? Could have been my imagination, i’ll have to drive it around town a bit more to know for sure
Also, cleared the memory by unhooking the battery earlier and turning on the headlights for a minute or two. Ran it for codes after driving it. Codes 21 and 51 for an ECT sensor fault. Should be the sensor near the thermostat housing, not to be confused with the temp sender for the guage cluster. This could also be sending the ecm a weird signal that would screw with something?
You will get a code 21 if you pull the codes before the engine is fully warmed up. Code 51 means the temp sensor was disconnected. Did you mess with the sensor while pulling the codes? I would let the engine fully warm up and then try again.
Engine was fully warmed up, pulled them 2 minutes after a 15 minute drive home. I did not mess with anything while pulling codes.
HOWEVER
This all did start yesterday, after my foot slipped off a step stool i was using to lean over engine bay. Cursed a bit, and grabbed onto what i could, and in doing so bumped my injector turning it which was what i believed caused my starting issue. Maybe i hit the wire for the sensor as well? I’ll double check that too tomorrow morning
